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They offer a super-slick PTFE finish to keep growth from attaching to the hull, in addition to one or more biocides. They dry almost instantly, so you can rapidly apply several coats and launch almost immediately. Because they are so thin, they must be applied with either a solvent-resistant foam roller cover or by spray with an airless sprayer.
Racing sailboats used in freshwater are an especially good candidate for these paints. Like ablative paints, sloughing antifoulings wear away as the boat moves, so the more often the boat is used and the faster it goes, the quicker the paint wears off.
Sloughing paints are very soft, so few paints can be applied over them. Vinyl-based paints are slick, hard paints that can be burnished to provide a smooth surface preferred by owners of performance boats. Unlike thin-film paints, vinyl paints like VC Offshore can be used in salt-water, although their antifouling effectiveness is inferior to high-quality modified epoxies and ablatives.
Vinyl-based paints can only be applied over an existing vinyl paint. Very thorough sanding is required to achieve a good bond when painting over vinyl coatings with other types of bottom paint. Never apply an antifouling paint that contains cuprous oxide on an aluminum hull or outdrive.
Doing so will result in galvanic corrosion that will damage or even destroy the hull. For painting underwater metals, Propspeed has emerged as one of the most popular formulations on the market today. Propspeed contains no biocide at all.
Instead, it is a super-slick coating that easily sheds marine growth. Propspeed is used on underwater metals, including props, struts, shafts and keel coolers. The big news here is that the popular anti-slime additive Irgarol is, after an absence of several years, back! Irgarol disrupts photosynthesis in plants, which makes it an effective additive for controlling slime and preventing that ubiquitous waterline "beard".
Micron Extra by Interlux is an example of this type of paint. Other choices include paints boosted with the anti-slime biocide zinc pyrithione, also called zinc omadine. As restrictions on copper-based antifouling paints increase, a pharmaceutical alternative has emerged. Depending on the paint formulation, ECONEA can be as effective as cuprous oxide at about one tenth the concentration in paint by weight.
Good preparation and priming are the basis for any paint job and antifouling paints are no different. Solid prep ensures good adhesion and better performance over time. If you are painting a new boat for the first time, wipe down the entire bottom with a good solvent wash such as Interlux or Pettit Dewaxer to get rid of all mold release agents from the factory. To avoid just spreading the mold release agent over the hull, turn your cloth frequently and replace often with a clean cloth.
You can then lightly sand the hull with grit sandpaper or use a no sand primer instead, such as Interlux Fiberglass No-Sand Primer or Pettit Sandless Primer. However, since most of us will be recoating over a previously painted bottom, we will need to make sure the surface is prepped for another coat.
If the old paint is known and in good shape: Remove old loose paint, dirt, grease, and marine growth with a power washer, brush or scraper. Wipe down with solvent wash. Sand with grit paper. Exercise caution to avoid sanding through a barrier coat that may have been applied to prevent fiberglass blistering or damaging the gelcoat of the hull.
Repeat solvent wash. Clean with the thinner recommended by your paint manufacturer. If blister protection is not needed, you can apply paint directly to the sanded surface or the fiberglass. If the old paint is unknown and in good shape: Clean, remove loose paint, sand grit paper and rinse with water. Apply the recommended number of coats of tie coat primer such as Interlux Primocon or Pettit to ensure optimum paint adhesion.
Some slippery Teflon paints such as the Interlux VC Offshore series may need to be removed before applying an incompatible paint. If the old paint is unknown and in bad shape: Remove the old coats of antifouling paint. Use paint remover that is compatible with the material of your hull. You may have to apply the paint remover several times to get rid of all the layers.
If you are a racer or a stickler for a super-smooth bottom, the dreaded sanding longboard may have to come out. Once the paint is stripped, check for damage to the barrier coat that provides blister protection if there is one and patch it where necessary. If the hull does not have an epoxy barrier coat this is a good time to consider applying this protection. Then proceed with painting.
Power-washing works great to remove any remaining dirt or light fouling. Be sure to wear eye protection, a good respirator and rubber gloves, as the cleaner is very caustic. Once the surface has dried completely, we are ready to sand.
Bottom paints are toxic by nature and most are solvent based, so you should always try to cover exposed skin, shield your eyes and wear a respirator to avoid breathing toxic fumes. We recommend outfitting yourself with a disposable coverall suit, gloves, high quality goggles and a dual-cartridge respirator.
Now get to work! First, lay out a large tarp or dropcloth to cover the entire work area. Knock off any loose paint with a scraper and, using either a sanding block or a dustless DA sander, lightly sand the entire bottom with grit sandpaper. Spend a little extra time on any high or uneven areas. Try to achieve as smooth of a surface as possible to minimize underwater drag.
Work around transducers, prop shaft struts and outdrives. When you have finished sanding, wipe down the surface with a rag and some solvent wash. There are some things to keep in mind when selecting a tape. General purpose tapes are only designed to be left on a surface for 24 hours or less, unless you want a lengthy job of trying to remove the tape! Try to tape as close to the existing bootstripe as possible. Start from a natural break point in the line and draw the tape every 1.
Be sure to tape around transducers, prop shaft struts, through-hulls and any other metal parts, as the copper in the paint will react with the other metals and cause galvanic corrosion. Select the right paint accessories to match the type of paint you are applying. Spraying is not recommended for do-it-yourselfers as it involves serious toxic hazards.
Thin-film paints such as VCm are too runny for such a heavy nap and are applied best either by rolling using a solvent-resistant foam roller cover or by spray with an airless sprayer.
But once the boat is designed and built what you can add to the mix is a smooth, low drag bottom. That smooth bottom means keeping the ravages of nature away from your boat bottom. To date the best tools you have for maintaining a smooth boat bottom is to keep the boat out of the water. And we need to discourage organic growths by using materials like copper to discourage colonization on our boat bottom. Of course just as with the wooden ships of the Royal Navy, non-stick still requires some water speed or mechanical help to encourage growths to flow off the bottoms.
Once fouling has established a hold on a boat hull it will rapidly spread or "colonize" the surface. Prevention is therefore better than the cure of having to remove the fouling by scraping. Other reasons to keep your bottom free from fouling Safety Heavy fouling growth reduces responsiveness of the craft. The added weight of the fouling can make the boat sit lower in the water than intended. This can have obvious implications in heavy weather conditions.
Protection Prolonged growth of certain types of fouling can damage the substrate of the hull. For example, the natural glues which organisms use to attach to the hull can damage wood and fiberglass. Fouling can also clog water intakes and cause damage to the engines. Speed and Efficiency Fouling causes drag. As drag is increased, fuel consumption increases and speed is reduced even to the point where a planing hull may not be able to get on plane.
For racing boats, this can be the difference between winning and losing a race. Antifouling boat bottom coatings are not meant to be a cosmetic or decorative coating. While no boat bottom paint can always keep growths away a non-stick Teflon type surface helps dramatically.
Smooth Sailing boat bottom coatings rely first on the large polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE molecule which produces a drag coefficient smoother than ice. As water flow is increased over the boat bottom with speed most growths will slip off the boat bottom, but just like eggs in a pan a little help does not hurt.
You may want to brush, pressure wash or wipe your bottom periodically. Most marine life does not like the taste of copper and will try to avoid it. Because your boat bottom is so important to the boat performance the bottom should be re-coated as often as possible. Sanding between coats will add to the longevity of the bottom jobs.
By sanding the bottom you can get more coats to adhere and forestall the day when too many coats means that you must remove all the Antifouling coatings from the surface and start over. The boat bottom should always be sanded before an additional coat even if they have just been power washed. Antifouling performance factors. The catalyzed resin-binder system, of this hard two part Urethane Teflon material holds the paint together.
This assures that the bottom is impervious to water, salt an other marine contaminants. Fluorourethane was originated by the U. It was a combination of a fluorocarbon Teflon molecule with a urethane molecule. The material was unique in that it provided a surface with approximately the same coefficient of friction as the Teflon, was hydrophobic, UV resistant, and at the same time provided an abrasion resistance four times that of Teflon.
The fluorourethane was originally tested on several ship hulls for the U. One boat tested was a harbor tugboat in Chesapeake Bay. Of major interest was the fact that no rust or corrosion occurred under the coating.
And biofouling, such as barnacles, could be removed with a high-pressure water jet instead of chipping or shot blasting. Skip to main content.
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