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22.12.2020, admin
Before you delve into anything it's good to know what you're up against. It's a good idea to inspect the tool before you buy it Surface rust no matter how bad, can be cleaned off, but if a part is rusted through then you're in trouble.
If possible, try to identify the piece you're looking at to give you an idea of its age and worth. If it's a stanley plane you can use this Wooden Jack Plane Sketch Questions chart to identify it. Once you've got the tool, take it apart carefully you don't want to strip any screwheads or crack any wood. Make sure the screw threads are in good shape, and that the wood is in tact. This method works wonders in a really short time since i can really put some pressure on the pieces. After you clean up your metal parts, you can move on to the handle aka tote and knob.
Simply take some sand paper or grit and have at it! The tote is a little tricky because of all the curves and angles, but just be patient Once you've got the finish off you can progress to I finished with about , but feel free to go higher anything above grit is overkill though. For the knob, i took a thin dowel, wrapped some tape around it until it was nice and snug in the hole for the screw and chucked the other end into my drill and voila!
A mini lathe. This makes sanding the knob a breeze Now that you've sanded them down to a buttery smooth finish you can apply the oil. There are a few different finishes you can apply, or combine such as danish oil, tung oil, or shellac.
I tried to avoid using any kind of varnish like polyurethane because it leaves the wood with a "plastic" look and feel, where as the oils tend to pop the grain and keep the wood feeling soft.
This is great if you intend to use the tool So now your parts have been de-rusted and cleaned This video from Mrballeng is basically what i did to get all of my screw heads nice and shiny. I just wrapped some paper towel around the screws to protect the threads, chucked it into my drill and polished away! The lever cap was a bit tough because i had to polish it by hand. But i went through the same process as the video in the same order. I suppose if you have abrasive wheels or pads you can use your drill to to the polishing As you may or may not know, brass does not rust!
So, you don't have to treat it chemically, you can actually skip right to this step after a light cleaning. Now that you've put all that hard work into it, it's time to reassemble your masterpiece! Give it one last cleaning with a rag and a light coat of machine oil, and carefully put it back together! Just like that you have a truly vintage tool ready for another 65 years of service.
Why would you restore a Hand Plane if you are not going to use it? What a waste of time and how in the hell did it ever get 2nd prize? I wouldn't even Wooden Jack Plane Sketch Keys give it a honorable mention. BTW: Yes, I am a woodworker and take pride in my tools. Reply 2 years ago. I'd be interested in how to properly set up a hand plane , and what the proper technique to use one is. I wish you would not refer to these as vintage, I bought mine new only 50 years ago!
Still use a solid beech block plane, sure I have put a new jarrah very hard Australian hardwood sole on it but works a treat. A little more seriously.
We need to remember this is an international site so stuff it fluff from Walmart means absolutely nothing to people outside N America. I made nearly the same, but about 30 years ago. In my case the carbolic hand of my plane was broken into peaces just when I used it. I could not replace or simply glue it, so I used aluminum hand from old broken hand saw to make new hand for my plane. I cut new hand just to exactly fit old broken one simply to be able to finish my job, but the hand was so comfortable and strong, that I use it till now.
Actually these hand planes are still manufactured. You can buy them new - at least here in Australia you can. Very useful instructable. Thank you for taking the time showing this to us. I will agree that Kroil is very good for rusty metal and connections that are rusted together. I also use it in black powder firearms to keep the corrosion down.
Another oil you might want to look into is Ballistol. Excellent rust preventative and actually mixes with water to form a protective film. Take care. Thanks for the great instructable.
I have to say I have not done a tool restoration before but now I have been inspired to have a go. I didn't see anything about it so I'll just suggest it anyway. If you haven't heard of Kroil to remove the rust, you should check it out. It is the single best rust penetrating fluid I have ever used and I have been in maintenance and repair for over 30 years.
Reply 3 years ago. Kroil also works great at preventing rust in rifle barrels. Use it after every cleaning. Great stuff!! Reply 4 years ago. Hmm, I've never heard of it. I'll have to check it out! Lately, I've just been soaking any small rusty parts overnight in white vinegar and that seems to do the trick without penetrating so deep so as to damage the metal.
There are a few Sketch Wooden Smoothing Plane Name methods for electro rust removal too if you want to do the setup. It seems to work really well and removes rust at a molecular level. Electrolysis has always been on my list of things to try out! I want to see how it compares to the conventional chemical methods. Nice job!! That looks great, I'm sure you'll get a lifetime of use out of it. Glad my 'ible was helpful! Reply 5 years ago on Step 6.
I just wanted to let you know this has really helped me. My father collected this stuff and after he passed away I sold it on ebay and probably made an extra grand just by doing half the cleaning you did.
Reply 5 years ago. Haha when I first glanced this comment I was expecting it to read " Enjoy your grand. Introduction: Restoring a Vintage Hand Plane. By warehouse32 Escamilla Woodworking Follow. More by the author:. About: Check out my website link in bio or my IG feed at www. On a recent trip to North Carolina my wife and I had stopped at an antique store where i found a few decent Stanley Bailey hand planes.
For those of you that don't know, a hand plane is a woodworking tool that's been around for a few centuries and is used to flatten and smooth wood. I absolutely love these tools. Their design has been virtually unchanged for over a hundred years now. They're aesthetically pleasing, ergonomic, long lasting, and exceptionally good at what they do. All around, it's an amazing tool. So, how could i pass up the opportunity to restore one of these to their original glory?!
Keep in mind that with any tool restoration, you get out of it exactly what you put into it. If you like the look of semi-oxidized metal then you don't have to buff it to a mirror shine; you can make the tool look as "antique" or as new as you want.
And now the fun begins! There are a few different methods for this part and depending on your available space, time, money, and know how you can try any of these: soaking rusted parts in apple cider vinegar using a chemical remover like naval jelly, evapo rust, or krud kutter this is what i used electrolysis wd and scotch brite and steel wool i used this technique as well, but it's hard to do on rounded or small parts If you decide to go the chemical method like me it's pretty straight forward After the chemical bath, i dried the pieces, and gave them a quick scrub with wd and steel wool to clean off any leftover bits and pieces.
To soak the frog and the plane i just a gallon sized ziploc bag to accommodate for the size of the pieces. This step is only if you intend on using the hand plane for woodworking. If you just want to display it, you can skip to the last step.
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