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This combination will give a long lasting and durable finish for your wooden worktops. For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with one of our friendly team via our contact us page. Its not going to be used for food prep and needs to be hard wearing so is a varnish going to be better than oil? The is a sink so there will be water splashed about.
Can you recommend any particular product? We would like to keep the wood as light as possible. It sounds like an interesting project, my concern would be that if it has been used as a science lab table that a wide range of chemicals and substances may have been absorbed into the wood over the years. Test areas will be vital with whatever product you decide to use. There are a couple of options that you are able to consider and the first, that you have mentioned, is a varnish, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a surface sealer with a long lasting durability.
It has anti bacterial properties that make it perfect for kitchen surfaces. The only down side to a varnish is that should the seal break down at any point and allow moisture under it will peel and flake fairly quickly and can be difficult to repair. The alternative is and oiled finish, this has the benefit of being a penetrating finish that will not peel and flake over time, it is not as long lasting as a varnish, however is easier to maintain and repair.
Used with the Osmo Wood Protector in sink area this will give a well protected moisture repellent finish. This requires application to bare wood that has been sanded to a � grit and so to use this you may need to re sand and open up the grain a little and for Iroko I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin designed for use on hardwoods such as Iroko. The oil will highlight more so than the varnish any imperfections that may be in the wood due to its history.
I hope this helps some and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
I have a large quantity of Osmo Polyx oil left over. Is it OK to use it on wooden kitchen worktops instead of buying a new tin of Top Oil? The Polyx Oil will be fine to use on your work tops as long as the wood is ready to accept further coats. Test areas will help to determine this. Osmo Polyx Oil is food safe once dry and will give as good a protective finish to your work top as the Osmo Top Oil will.
I hope that helps but please do not hesitate to get back to me if you have any further questions. Can you advise which of your products I should try please?
Thank you. Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. I can recommend the Osmo Top Oil Natural This protective oil contains a minute amount of white pigments to counteract the darkening you would usually get with a clear oil.
It should leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still offering a moisture repellent and durable finish. Unfortunately sample sizes are not available in the product range but a very close product you could try if you wanted is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a 5ml sample sachet for a test area and I always recommend a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the colour and finish that will be achieved.
I have recently brought a Rimforsa kitchen island from IKEA which has a wooden worktop, which I have since found out is bamboo. What are the best products to seal this natural wood and for food preparation. Many thanks. If the worktop does not currently have a finish applied then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an interior wood oil that is ideal for tight grained wood or woods that are naturally high in oil content.
Bamboo is a naturally dense wood that will accept an oil but will have a low uptake, two very thin coats are all that is required and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved.
If you need any further advice we have a great team on hand to answer any questions on or via our contact us page. We have solid oak kitcheb bench, it has become water damaged around sink area, i managed to sand out the dark marks, but then as soon as i apply the danish oil it clings to the previous Wren Kitchens Wooden Worktops Effect parts that were water damaged and looks even worse?
Water stains can penetrate quite deep and you may need to do further sanding to restore the wood. But once you have been able to remove the stain I would strongly recommend a product such as the Osmo Wood Protector to be apply to the bare wood first, this is very moisture repellent protective finish specifically for areas that are exposed to moisture ingress.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. The worktops are in very good condition with no water damage etc. Once sanded back to bare wood, if you wipe with a damp, not wet, cloth the darkening you get from doing this will show you what any clear product will achieve. Iroko is a very hardwearing tropical hard wood and when sanded you will bring the natural oils to the surface of the wood.
I would recommend wiping over the surface with some Methylated Spirits first this will aid absorption of oil treatments and due to the type of wood you are treating there is only one that I would recommend, Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin the thinner oil will penetrate the surface of the wood better. If you have a read up of that product and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.
Always try a test area first. Having looked at lots of useful information on your website I am thinking of using Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Extra Thin to renovate my beech worktops. I will probably apply the oil by brush � will I be able to clean the brushes in water or is white spirit required?
The two oils you are looking at are great options for a Beech Worktop. They will require application to bare well prepared wood and as always I recommend a test area to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. Brush application is ideal and you can remove any excess with a lint free cloth. Then Brushes will require cleaning with some White Spirits first to remove all of the oil and then a good rinse in some warm soapy water.
I think the Holzol worktop oil is the one for us. I know right!! Making a decision on which product to use can be difficult. And the two top oils that you are considering are both very good. When there are so many products to choose from how do you know which one is right? Well both are available in sample sizes and so this should be your starting point.
I know it makes the process a little longer but in the long run testing those products will help to get the desired finish. To be fair they are very similar in look and finish, I would expect the Osmo to have the slight edge on coverage but the Holzol is quicker drying.
Essentially they both require two thin coats for application. We have moved into a property that had solid dark looking walnut worktops. I have spent the weekend sanding these down quite significantly and the result is a lot lighter and we like this lighter more natural look, but what is our next step.
I have sanded with a 40 grain so presume I now need to do a much finer round but what do we oil with after that will keep this new look that we like? Really would appreciate any advice. Thank you for your question, yes, is the answer sanding to a finer grit. So depending on how much time you would like to spend on it and how smooth your would like the surface to be, you could sand with a 80 grit next and then finish with a grit.
Or going straight to the grit will be fine, this will still give a smooth even finish ready for application of a Hard Wax Oil to protect the wood. To keep the wood looking and feeling natural but still offer the protection required for a kitchen worktop I would recommend Holzol Worktop Oil this particular oil is a little thinner than some of the others and will work better with a hardwoods such as Walnut and Oak.
W9ndering which oil is best for iroko which I am having installed in a couple of weeks. Can you tell me a little more about your project, is it interior or exterior? Decking, flooring, furniture or something else. And i may be able to narrow down some options for you. If you would like to email me direct you can do his through our contact us page. Both have the Pros and Cons for sure.
If we start with a varnish, this is a surface sealer that is certainly more durable, longer lasting and hard wearing. It sits on the surface of the wood and can be compared to a plastic like finish, however many of the modern varnishes now also give a more natural look and come in a range of sheens. The downside to varnish is that it is harder to repair or change down the line, scratches are difficult to hide or repair. It can be easier to apply and has a quicker drying time.
Oils although still very durable and hard wearing will not last as long as a varnish, they have a far more natural look and feel and many people prefer this and only require two very thin coats applied, so a little goes a long way. The benefit of having an oil is that it is far easier to maintain and repair over time. So if a scratch or accident marks the oil the you can lightly sand the effected area and re oil, it will blend well and nearly always look as good as new.
When it starts to fade you can simply clean the floor and reapply the oil with out the new to strip. My advice would be to sand back the floor and if you are unsure of which route you want to take, both varnishes and oils are available in sample sizes on our website and it is important to try the products on your wood as the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the finish that will be achieved.
I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact page. We have a lovely maple kitchen that was installed in and still looks good overall.
The work surfaces have been oiled occasionally but not recently and are beginning to look a bit grubby in places. We used a Ronseal worktop oil last time. What would you recommend we use this time and what steps should I take to prepare before application?
Do I need to sand down the surfaces � there are a few water stains near the sink but the rest is just slightly grimy mixed with old oil I think? I understand oil sealants are much improved recently. What is the best one for maple? You advice will be much appreciated. Kind regards David. Thank you for your questions. For the best result you can remove all the existing finish by sanding, removing all the previous oil and wiping down with White Spirit once clean and dry the wood is ready for fresh treatment and to start with I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is particularly good for areas exposed to a fair amount of moisture and temperature changes.
It will help prevent damage to the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Osmo Top Oil which will make the moisture and stain repellent and is a very durable and hard wearing finish. I do strongly recommend test areas with both products as they can and will darken the wood very slightly and you will need to ensure you like the finish to be achieved.
We are buying walnut worktops. How much oil to apply comes down to the type of oil used. The benefit of these is that they offer exceptional durability, are very easy to apply and maintain, require minimal maintenance and in most cases require just 2 thin coats.
As Walnut is a dense hardwood, the top, bottom, sides and ends will only require 2 thin coats of a hard wax oil. When applying its important to work the oil into the surface of the wood grain and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth. All the brands mentioned are excellent and although they all have their own unique formulations, they all offer excellent protection on kitchen worktops. For further information about each product, please feel free to contact one of our resident wood experts who are on hand and happy to answer any questions you may have.
What application would you recommend? We also have an iroko island unit worktop which I have tried several times to treat with polyeurethane but it get white marks when cleaned with damp cloths and is not hard wearing. Any best ideas for this surface too Thanks. Are you able to tell me what the current finish is on the table, varnish or oil? Or are you planning to strip back to bare wood?
In regards to the Iroko Island, it could be in relation to a high oil content in the Iroko, being a tropical hard wood it has a tight grain and a naturally high oil content and this could be impacting on the polyurethane. If you are planning to remove the treatment and bring the Iroko back to bare wood I would recommend, firstly wiping over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits to remove the natural oil from the surface.
And then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an extra thin oil suited for use with tropical hard wood such as Iroko. It will absorb better and only two thin coats are required for this. If you have a look at the products recommended and feel free to get back to me with any questions via our contact us page. Any suggestions please? You could have a look at the Bona Craft Oil which has a couple of paler colours in the range.
Applying a lighter colour on to a darker wood does not always give the desired colour and so I would recommend test area first to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved, the wood that you are applying to will impact on the over all colour to be achieved.
This product does not come in a sample size unfortunately. So for an alternate that does have a sample size you could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. There is a white in this range it is quite a subtle white and may be enough to highlight the grain. Test areas are the key to getting the look you want. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
We have had just brand new light oak, full stave worktops fitted to our new kitchen. The colouring is very important to the whole aesthetic � matching the grey panted cabinet doors and our light oak engineered flooring.
So we want to avoid applying any protective oils etc. Do you have any ideas about what might be the best coating we could apply to retain the colour as much as possible. Many clear products will change the wood very slightly, darkening a little or highlighting the grain and natural tones of the wood. As you are looking to treat a worktop it needs to be a durable finish and so I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
This is a durable and hard wearing product that is moisture and dirt resistant. It is easy to apply and food safe once dry. It requires two thin coats applied to bare wood and because it has a minute amount of white pigment in it, this counteracts the darkening effect you get with the clear products.
There is a sample size available and I would recommend a test area first. I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch. We are having our kitchen redone.
Our old wooden worktop was finished with Danish Oil and while this looked good,it is too dark for what we now have in mind. Each coat of Danish Oil will take up to 6 � 8 hours to dry. We do not recommend trying to form one thick layer of coating as it can end up being rather sticky and unpleasant. Instead applying several thin layers of coating. When first oiling the worktop after installation, it is important to build up coatings before installation and coats after installation , but when re-oiling for maintenance purposes you would only need to apply coats, depending on how worn out your wood worktop is.
Put your worktop to the water test once again Step 1 and if the worktops fails the test again, repeat the oiling process. The busier you are, the quicker your oil wears down and the more you have to look after your kitchen worktop.
We believe regular re-oiling is a small price to pay for the beauty that the natural wood will bring into your home. When investing in a walnut worktop with us, you can be assured that the finished product is a masterpiece that [�]. Sales sales houseofworktops. Get your worktops fully customised Customise your worktop.
The Water test If you do not know when your kitchen worktop needs re-oiling, you can simply spill a little bit of water on the surface. Sand it, before you oil it Sanding is an essential procedure prior to reoiling.
Let your Osmo Oil dry Each coating will take between hours to dry. Is your worktop ready to go? Remember never apply varnish or paint to a surface that may be used to prepare food and always use a chopping board on wooden worktops.
Food poisoning is not nice! All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology. Find a tradesman now! Twitter Facebook Pin It Buffer.
Project Menu Project Menu. Oiling a Hardwood Kitchen Worktop Hardwood worktops must be thoroughly treated with at least three coats of protective wood oil, to all sides including the underside , prior to installation. Treated hardwood kitchen worktop When applying the oil yourself, it is best to apply several thin coats rather than one thick application. Worktops can be finely sanded between coats using sandpaper between grit and grit.
Aftercare and Maintenance of an Oiled Worktop Ongoing care and oiling of the timber brings out and enhances its appearance as well as protecting the wood surfaces from wear and tear. A green nylon scouring sponge can be used for cleaning purposes but the area may require re-oiling afterwards Always use a chopping board for food preparation � cutting directly onto the worktop will damage the surface Hot pans, rough-bottomed objects and wet items should not be placed directly onto a wooden work surface � always use granite inserts, hot-rods, trivets, pan stands or heat-resistant mats to protect the worktop from scorch marks.
Direct contact from iron, steel or copper vessels can also stain the timber surfaces and should therefore be avoided Renovating or Repairing Damaged Wooden Worktops If your worktop is damaged, or very badly in need of renovation, it can be sanded down with some fine sandpaper no finer than grit.
For best results, slightly dampen the surface before sanding. Danish oil provides great protection is by far the easiest oil to apply Tung Oil : Tung is a tree, found in China, parts of Africa and in some South American Countries. Tung Oil provides excellent protection but is more difficult to apply and requires a much greater drying time Linseed Oil : Extracted from the seeds of the flax plant by steaming and crushing them.
Raw linseed oil can be boiled to make the drying process faster. Linseed oil usually requires more applications than other oils as it dries out far quicker Teak Oil : Mixture of natural oils from vegetable products Remember never apply varnish or paint to a surface that may be used to prepare food and always use a chopping board on wooden worktops.
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