$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

Wood Hull Sailing Dinghies & Boats for sale | eBay Building a Wooden Boat: This Instructable contains my plans and method for building a boat. It is written as a journal. I'm a novice so please don�t expect exact and % correct boat building plans/ advice or terminology. Experts, please fee. Wooden Boat Plans and Boat Kits by Arch Davis Grace's Tender - More than just a tender, this little dinghy is a fine vessel in her own right. She is a pleasure to row, and sprightly under her simple sailing rig - a great boat for youngsters to mess about in. �Boat building is one of the few pursuits where utilization of the end product is as rewarding as its construction.� Marc Bourassa, Wilmington, MA (built the Power Skiff and 2 Kidyaks) With Glen-L proven plans & kits, building your own boat can be a reality.
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Samples of a magazines have been since beneath: It positively takes a little credentials. Yetthese easy-to-understand skeleton will have vessel constructing the breeze. space. Open Aptness core during 1st Category Acrobatic exercises in Annapolis is each Friday as well as Saturday night from 6:30pm.

I really am here to help! What I do promise is that building one of my boats will be an extremely rewarding and satisfying experience, and that you will be enormously proud of the finished result. Can you build one of these boats?

Certainly � some of them, the Sand Dollar , or Laughing Gull , for example, are entry-level designs. Others � the Penobscot 14 or Penobscot 17 , or one of the bigger boats � are more challenging.

Many have been built by people with no prior woodworking experience at all. Others have found stitch and glue a little unsatisfying, and want to try their hand at something that makes better use of their woodworking skills.

All my plans include clear, detailed building manuals, and my personal back up, when you need it. If you see something that you like in my collection, please feel free to contact me with any questions. I am available on the phone at , or email me at archdavis gmail. I hope you will share the experience! She is a pleasure to row, and sprightly under her simple sailing rig - a great boat for youngsters to mess about in.

Bay Pilot 18 - an 18 ft pilothouse cruiser for outboard power. Ace 14 - 14 ft performance daysailer Penobscot 13 - 13 ft little sister to Penobscot Jack Tar - 26 ft plywood lobster boat design Jiffy - suitable for rowing or a small outboard motor Jiffy 22 - outboard powered cabin skiff Jiffv V - vee-bottom sister of the Jiffy I have kits for a number of my designs, ranging from frame kits for the Sand Dollar , Penobscot 14 and Penobscot 17 , to a complete kit for the Grace's Tender.

The pre-cut kit for the Laughing Gull provides all the plywood parts and hull framing, cut to shape. I also have epoxy kits and plywood packages for all my designs, plus sails, rigging, and numerous other items. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts.

Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Rip and attach the plywood sheets. Mark out your measurements. Lay out the attached panels and mark a vertical line every 12" along the entire 8' length of the plywood. From these 12" vertical lines, measurements are made by marking points on these lines.

A long stick or batten is used to draw a line between these points giving the outlines of the canoe's panels. Make sure the lines drawn for the panels are all fair, smooth curves. Only three panels are needed per side. The four half sheets of 8' plywood are used to make 12 boat panels, then these 12 panels are put together in matching pairs with butt blocks or scarf joints to make up the total 6 panels or 3 per side.

Finger joints, using a dovetail template and a router will also make good joints to join the panels. You have to allow for the 1" overlap of each panel when making the finger joint, as this gives the boat an attractive finished look. This system makes a simple but very nice boat and has a recognizable canoe look and shape with a gentle "v" bottom, rather than a flat bottom.

Cut the panels. Once the panels have been drawn out and checked for nice curving lines, it's time to cut them out using a saber saw. Once you have cut the panels out, use a woodworkers rasp file to smooth up the edges as close to the lines on the panel as possible.

A small block plane could be used instead. Now you can put the panel pieces together as stated above with finger joints, scarves or butt blocks. More specific instructions on how to do each of these joints is easily available online.

Drill holes in the panels. This job is easier and faster if you lay the two matching panels the corresponding panels on either side together and drill the holes. This boat has only three panels per side, with each of the three being the same on either side of the canoe. Stitch up the panels. Get some bailing, copper or any soft, easy-to-bend wire from the hardware store. Cut short pieces of wire about 3" long, you will need quite a few of these, about half a pie pan full.

However, you can always cut more if you need them. Leave the wire loose, so you can open the bottom two panels up like a book. This will be the bottom of your canoe.

Now, starting in the center, wire stitch on the next panel, putting a few stitches on each side of the center line. Keep working from side to side doing a few on each side until you get to the ends. When you get to the upper panels, line up the ends and stitch them together. Try to keep them as even as possible, with a nice canoe end curve.

You should begin to see the canoe coming together at this point. Review your work. With the panels stitched together, put a stick about 1" square and 29" long at the top center inside of the canoe.

This will hold it to the right width and shape. Now, stand back and look it over. Is it fair, with nice flowing lines and no twist? If not tighten or loosen the wire stitches as necessary, or even add a stitch if needed. Make sure it looks pleasing to the eye. Check to see if there is any twist in the canoe, using winding sticks. Make sure the panel edges are all sitting on top of each other nice and tight and not overlapping at any point.

This gives you a nice smooth side. More detailed instructions on how to do a transition joint can be found in many books covering stitch and glue boat building or on the internet. Finally, be sure that the panels are not pushed out from each other at any one point, you want nice, smooth-stitched seams. Part 2 of Apply some epoxy. Mix up just enough epoxy to cover the joints between the panels. This is done by using a mixing cup 8oz.

Then use a foam paint brush to apply the epoxy to the joints. Try to cover each edge about an inch on either side of the joint, making sure that it soaks into the joint to get a good bond. Make it look like you're painting a strip down the joint. Remember that the joints of the panels and stems only get epoxied on the inside for now. Repeat this process for each of the joints. Try not to let the epoxy run down the sides of the panels -- you only want it on the joint, no runs.

If you have any runs, use another brush to wipe them up. This just makes life easier when it comes to sanding the inside of the boat. Remember to check the outside of the seams for runs as well. Put two coats of epoxy on the joints and stems stems are the ends of the boat , letting the epoxy dry before re-coating. Be sure the stems are pulled tightly together using the stitches before applying the epoxy.

Don't use clamps to pull the stems ends together, stitches only! Each coat of epoxy needs about 24 hours to dry, so try to have a little patience while dreaming of that smooth glassy lake!

Remove the wire stitches. When the epoxy is dry, check to ensure that the joints are fully epoxied with no dry spots areas without epoxy. If they are, you can start cutting and pulling out the wire stitches.

Do this with care, as the panels' joints are still fragile at this point. Try not to break the epoxy join, and don't leave any wire in the boat. If you pull out a wire and the joint opens, put a stitch back in and epoxy that joint area again. Apply a mixture of epoxy and wood flour. Once all of the wire is out, mix up some epoxy and wood flour very fine sawdust.

You can find wood flour at any boat building supplier. This mixture is known as a fillet. Apply this fillet to the joints that you put the epoxy on. However, you should be careful not to add too much epoxy, as it can become brittle. Add fiberglass tape to the inside of the boat.

Now it's time to add a 3" wide fiberglass tape which is cloth-like, rather than sticky to the freshly fillet-coated joints and stems. To make the joint as smooth as possible, add just enough epoxy to turn the fiberglass clear, then use a squeegee to remove any excess. Remember that applying too much epoxy is as bad as applying too little.

Be gentle while doing this, as you don't want to push the fresh fillet mix out of the joint when you push down on the fiberglass with the squeegee. When you get to the stems, add a 3" wide strip of fiberglass to the inside of the stems over the fillet. Allow the stem end fiberglass to come down over the center strip of fiberglass tape, as this will make one complete, strong joint. You will need to add a second coat of epoxy to these tapes after the first coat cures, again waiting 24 hours between each coat.

Sand the boat. Once the second coat of epoxy has dried, it's time to turn the boat over. Enlist the help of another person to turn the boat over -- remember to be very gentle, as the boat is still fragile at this point. Then use sandpaper 80 grit to smooth up the joint edge, being careful not to sand too deep into the plywood. Sand the entire outside of the boat, using a grit sandpaper. Make sure to clean up any drips and runs from the epoxy that ran through the joints.

When the sanding is done wipe off the excess dust using a cheesecloth, then use compressed air and a clean cloth to remove the more stubborn dust. Sweep the floor, and wait until the dust has settled before proceeding. Apply epoxy and fiberglass to the outside of the boat.

Once the dust has settled, you can apply a thin, even coat of epoxy to the smooth, bare wood on the outside of the canoe using a good foam brush. Again, 24 hours to wait for the epoxy to dry. Lightly sand the epoxy-coated outside of the boat with grit paper.

This is only necessary to provide a tooth for the next coat of epoxy and fiberglass to hold to. Now it's time to add fiberglass cloth to the outside of the boat. The fiberglass can weigh anywhere between 4 oz and 8oz, depending on the intended use of the canoe.

The larger the fiberglass the heavier the canoe will be as the heavier fiberglass requires more epoxy. Use the same technique of applying the fiberglass to the outside of the boat, then applying a layer of epoxy on top. If you have never done this before, it's a good idea to read as much as you can about it first.

Being informed will help you do a really nice job on the boat. Trim the fiberglass and epoxy. You will need to trim the epoxy and fiberglass cloth approximately two hours after applying, just before the epoxy starts to harden.

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