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Just wondering, did you have a keyway on the drive sprocket on the winch or just setscrews to hold it please mate. On mine I used a dremel tool to cut a half moon shaped keyway into the winch drum. I did the same thing on the axle. Thanks Ian. I will post some pictures when I finally get around to finishing it. Hopefully soon as I am getting too old and cranky to keep moving trailers around in the back yard.
Thanks Ian for your reply. I understand your lack of time until you retire! I am totally new to this kind of work but I want to have a go!! Kind regards. Hi Ian, On the reduction sprockets you are using, how many feet per minute travel do you get please?
Also, in case anyone is interested, I managed to get the rear live axel and wheels off a quad bike for the drive wheels. The advantage is that the hubs are splined to the axels and it already has bearings where the bike frame was bolted on to the assembly.
Saves a lot of setting up. I will send some pictures when finally complete. Wow Noel, you ask good questions. The winch runs at about 30 rpm without load and about 7. With the sprocket gearing the wheels will turn at about 3 rpm no load and 2. Not fast but that also makes it safer and easier to control. Having any components pre-made would be awesome, what is the weight of the ATV axle assembly?
Hi Ian, I am not sure of the actual weight of the axle assembly but I would guess about 15 to 20 Lbs including the hubs. The only small disadvantage with using the quad rear axle is that the bike mounting and bearing assembly is a couple of inches off set from the centre of the axle. It would be too expensive to shorten one axle and have it re splined. I intend to just make the frame a bit wider on one side to make it look like it is centred. It should not detract from the operation of the unit.
I am not really worried about how heavy it is, the heavier the better really as it will be used on a grass area which is slippery clay under. Also, our back yard is on a bit of a slope, so the heavier it is the better within reason.
The wheels are 53 inches in circumference so using your gearing should work out ok. Many thanks Ian. Sounds like a great plan Noel I use mine at a storage lot where I store my trailers so I needed it light enough to transport in my vehicle and lift by myself. Ian, thanks for much for publishing the plans for the trailer dolly. I have obtained pretty much the identical parts I need from Princess Auto and I am in the process of building one much like it.
Since I have a full machine shop, I am able to weld anything needed. I am changing things a bit.. Modified swivel wheel up front mounted underneath the battery to support the weight up front; ball mount on a customized mounting plate so I can simply change the size of the ball, or more importantly, mount a special bracket to hold a customized mount on the Ranger boat trailer which leaves the boat trailer hitch free of the dolly.
This will allow me to move the unit around to position the trailer over the vehicle ball as well. If I find the unit moves too slowly, I will simply change the front mounting sprocket to a larger one, since the boat only weighs about lbs, and the purpose of the dolly is �1�to assist in positioning through a tight fitting carport..
All the best�. Robert, Is it possible tho show some pics on this forum also as Ian has done? Great projects and like you say a huge saving over buying one. Yes, I had planned to do that but only after it is built in final form. As I put it all together in final form, I will take pics and if I can figure out how, I will post them.
If I cant, I will email them to whomever wants pics. Only things left to Building A Sailboat Trailer 50 figure out are the post and ball arrangement and the handle. This will also allow me to add some sort of arrangement to attach the unit to some other part of the trailer frame to leave the ball free for manoevering onto the van trailer hitch.
The post arrangement will be open on the sides for changing the ball. The handle must be removable for storage and will have the control mechanism cable strapped to it with the control at the top of the handle.
I also have to jury rig a rotating wheel up front of the correct size to keep the platform level. The four bolts holding the swivel wheel will also hold the battery box to the platform. The two holes used for mounting the winch will be elongated for later chain adjustment should it be needed. Once I see how fast this unit moves in practice, I may decide to mount a larger wheel on the winch to speed up movement using the balance of the 10 feet of chain I bought from Princess Auto and assuming the winch has the power to do so.
In total, the unit will be quite heavy but that will add to stability and the front mounted battery will help keep the unit from rising at the front.
If I want to pick it up at any point, I will simply weld handles on each end. The ball will be located about 2 inches in front of the axle frame itself, which should also act to keep the front down while pulling the trailer. That 2 inch measurement seems to be about what Ian used on his unit.
Both the leads going in and the tender leads Building A Sailboat Trailer In China coming out, will exit the box through the built in venting ports on the battery box, keeping everything neat and professional looking. Robert, I wonder if you have finished your trailer dolly? Please post some pictures. Hi Ian, Finally finished the monster�I have been very sick for the last couple of weeks with pneumonia so Building A Sailboat Trailer 01 I have been dragging my feet a bit.
I hope to have it painted tomorrow, at least the etch primer done anyway. It works well on concrete but when its moving the tinny up the rise in the back yard it loses traction and starts digging holes so I am going to add a couple of hundred pounds of lead on the machine if I can locate some cheap enough.
That should stop it wheel spinning. I could most probably sell it as a plough at the moment for use on soft ground!! I put it up against a verandah post and tried it out when I finished it and I thought it was going to collapse it. If I can get it painted in the next couple of days I will post some pictures for you. Regards, Noel. Hi Noel You will need to email me your pictures with a write-up on how you built it or what modification you made on my plans I would be happy to add your information to my post.
I tried emailing you but the email was rejected. Send to Boler [at] gmail [dot] com. That is great. I am just coming to the end of my construction of an all steel unit but based on your plans Ian, and modified slightly to better utilize my machining facilities. I will send you along my pictures and layout when done�still have to paint it, but it works brilliantly at very low cost to build.
And thank you again for the idea and plans. Hi Ian, I really like your design and have decided to build one as I am shortly to have a hip replacement. Could you please recommend appropriate sprockets for max speed. My trailer and boat combination are on a kg trailer so the weight is not as great as a lot of the uses this design has been put to. I just built one similar to yours and it actually had no problem moving a lb RV.
I geared mine a little lower and i have two sets of tires�. What wiring did you use to wire up the rocker switch to get the trailer brakes to work? I would really like to have trailer brakes on my dolly�. For the trailer brake you just need to provide 12VDC power to the trailer brake power lead in the trailer plug. It is usually the BLUE wire connected to terminal 2. The rocker switch will apply full 12VDC to the brake magnets that apply the brakes. What size you used?
Is the motor shaft able to be separated from cable drum? Yes the drum unit does separate but unfortunately the drum is an integral part of the planetary gear reduction so there is no shaft coming off the motor. Hi, I am designing mine based on the scap metal available so I still have time and room for improvement.
I am hesitating between installing 1 or 2 swivel caster wheels. Hi Ian my dolly is coming along well. Reading your block is most helpful. Glad to say mine is actually Building A Sailboat Trailer System looking much like yours.
Just hoping it works!! Kind regards John Heidenreich. I have found that I have to modify my dolly to make it more stable. It seems that with two wheels at the rear and only one at the front, it tends to tip over. So I plan to make it a four wheel dolly to add stability. Also I have found that the trailer ball should be about 4 inches in front of the axle rather than 1.
However, in spite of these needed changes, it has an amazing amount of pulling power and will pull a lb boat over rough lawn with no effort. I agree that a caster in front and behind the drive wheels would make it much more stable my trailer is lighter so this is not an issue.
Only caution is to keep the ball as close to the drive wheels as possible. The further you have it away the more weight is transferred away from the drive wheels and onto the caster. You want as much weight on the drive wheels for traction. I would add casters on both sides but mount them so they are slightly off the ground to have full weight on the drive wheels.
Yes, the position of the ball relative to the drive wheels will likely take some experimentation. I did find that with a heavy boat trailer, with the ball positioned 1 inch in front of the axle, that the dolly tended to lift the front up when the trailer wheels met an obstruction on the ground surface.
So perhaps 2 inches in front of the axle would be best. Problem is, to move the mount I have to cut it off with my plasma cutter and re-weld it plus all the painting. Perhaps what I will do is make a large mount with several positions for positioning the ball 1 inch, 2 inches, and 3 inches in front of the axle. That way I can experiment to find out which works best based on the weight of the trailer. Hi Ian What a great idea. I have almost finished one. Painted but untried. I think it will work.
All the best for your new bright ideas. The only weight directly of the wheels is the 60AH battery the trailer hitch carries minimal weight. Did you try yours on such soft terrain? I am currently considering of replacing the tires with tractor type such.
I have thought of slightly deflating the tires. Possibly adding snow chains. Any experience on such aspects? Hi Ian, This year I built another, dedicated, dolly. Motor power W is sufficient, but traction, again, is the problem. Most of the terrain I would move the trailer on is dirt with gravel and the weight of the 60AH lead-acid battery directly on the axle does not seem to be enough.
I changed the tires to tractor type, 40cm in diameter and I have thoughts of adding dead weight a container with lead blocks to increase traction. Have you ever measured the load per wheel or the total on the axle that will give sufficient traction? On some terrain I also have tire slip issues. A narrower lug grip tire will exert more pressure on the ground, you could definitely also try lowering the tire pressure which should help.
Hi I am thinking of building this for maneuvering my trailer at home on my driveway. My trailer is lbs and my driveway has a slight grade about 1 in 10 at the bottom end. Do you think it would handle this??? I move a lb tandem axle trailer with mine. It has enough power but the current draw is considerable so I would recommend having the battery attached directly to the mover or use large cables to supply power. This is fantastic. Your email address will not be published.
Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Cable drum on winch needs to be machined down to fit drive gear hub. D January 25, Reply. Ian G. January 26, Reply. Ed Vervynck October 28, Reply. February 24, Reply. February 28, Reply. Rick April 30, Reply. April 30, Reply.
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