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Build the Tango Skiff. Same is true with jon boats as with any other type of boats you may duck flat wooden boat plans on building John Boat Plans. However if you are just starting out do look for a plan which has the exact dimension of the boat so no additional calculation is needed on your.

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Powering Jon A simple 20' jonboat. The bottom is a constant 6' wide and the empty hull shell might weigh pounds. The hull depth is 2', the transom is shown for a short 15" shaft motor but there is a motor well in front of it which goes to the hull's top so a 15" wave over the stern won't flood anything, it would take a 24" wave to go over the bow, sides or stern.

I go straight to a Coast Guard publication for this now. I don't guess at it. I suppose a long time ago an expert wrote the pub and you can go ahead and pick at the methods if you want.

But I follow them. They don't make totaly sense in every way but what are you gonna do when giving guidelines to the public. Twenty years of dealing with the public has shown me that many Flat Bottom Duck Boat Plans 32 highly educated people refuse to do any math at all. So you won't be bothered multiplying hull length times hull beam I don't really know if these Coast Guard max calculations have any legal value.

I assume they are guidelines. But every factory boat will be placarded with such a number and I doubt if any good shop will fit more power than the recommended. First, take overall length, 20' here. Then take max stern beam, 7. Multiply to get the "factor", that's for the Jon Then the publication has charts that conjure up the max hp allowed, in this case for a hard chined flat bottom it is about 55 hp.

The old rule that I think you can bank on is if you want to plane you need a hp for each 50 pounds afloat. Now this boat is made from a pound pile of plywood and the finished bare hull out to weigh about that. Let's add say pounds for a minimum motor and maybe 50 pounds of fuel and 50 pounds of general gear and maybe pounds for you and you are floating pounds.

That would be about the minimum weight the boat would ever be used at. Apply the old rule and you will need 20 hp to have a chance to plane it. But this is a bit boat that can easily swallow another half ton of stuff. Then you need 40 hp to plane with any margin at that heavy weight. The old rule about non planing power is a horse for every pounds. So 4hp would suit. Why have such a big boat with such small power?

I worked at a marina where they had a big aluminim jonboat, maybe a Lowe, a fine job, which they would rent to big family groups. It had no more than 10hp and would not plane so it was safe when Farmer John brought his family out to the lake once a year. Later we used the big jon as a work boat and the little motor was great.

It was so big and stable that you would rather work from it than from a dock. I think I'm getting a lot better at this than I used to be. The Hullform data and the measured drag more or less agreed, much to my surprise! Even the best props only allow you to convert half of your rated hp into thrust power. Ok, horsepower is to me a measure of pushing a force at a certain speed.

In the dictionary one horsepower is pounds times feet per minute. So just imagine your horse pulling on a wagon with a drag of pounds at feet per minute about 1mph and you are watching a horsepower in action. They said the usual work horse could do that for 8 hours, go home, and come back and do it again the next day, etc. I'm thinking trained human atheletes can put out a full horse power for maybe an hour at a time, more on steroids.

But most of us are good for maybe an eighth of that. I suppose a racehorse might put out ten hp for a lap. At least by going through all the apples to oranges conversions you can pick a point of the Hullform curve and say it takes X horsepower to get there.

I later took those pieces and a 2x8x10' to my my old boss's shop to cut them out on the table Saw. I laid out the keel with a long batten and then cut the shallow curves with the skillsaw.

Note: It's usually easier to find clear, knot free wood in larger dimensions than smaller. So if you have to buy wood, get the biggest dim's possible and take your parts out of them. Unfortunately I was not able to use the wood I had found in the remodel dumpster for the long pieces but I did use it for the frames and smaller parts. So those 9' boards will go into a future 'ible. I built a simple set of legs for the form out of 2x4's.

I went with a three legged design but I Wooden Duck Boat Plans Co. Ltd actually should have gone ahead and added the second foot since that side is kinda wobbly. The center Flat Bottom Duck Boat Plans Quotes frame is actually part of the form and isn't attached to the boat, giving it an open cockpit between the 1 and 3 frames.

I notched the stem pieces and attached them to the form with a couple of pieces of ply on each side. Then I trimmed the keel to length and started on the chines. This worked like a charm. By morning it was on the ground. The easy part is over. Now we start to build a boat.

I used Clothesline to pull the chines in so I could mark them and cut the ends to fit against the stem pieces. You do this little bit at a time. You can't just pull them in one at a time or nothing will line up right. So I tied off one end just enough to keep it from spreading while I used the Clothesline to pull the other side in.

After trimming all four ends I loosened everything up and glued it all in place. This part was pretty easy. Just lay your pieces across the frames and make sure everything is even. Then mark where you will notch the frames and cut the notches. Notch the center frame a bit loose so that it doesn't get stuck when you try to pull it off the form.

Then mark the angles and cut. Glue and screw to the frames Not the middle frame. And put a couple of screws from the outside into the ends of the BB's.

Then install Clamps pretty much the same way as you did the chines. Don't forget to pre-bend them first. I know it may be confusing but the top outside frame of a wooden boat is called a "clamp" Or a Sheer Clamp.

No, it's not see-thru, but the "sheer line" is another name for the continuous line from the transom to the bow.

Or in this case, from the bow to the bow and back to the other bow. This design is called a "Double ender" for reasons that are hopefully more obvious that the reason for calling that frame piece a "sheer clamp". In the process of adding these parts I figured out a neater way to cut the ends. A lot of this is just done by eye, but I found that I could clamp the Clamp sorry to a 2x4 and use it as a lever to hold the piece in place and mark the top and bottom, then connect the lines to get my cut line.

Check the pictures they can show it better than I am doing here. This is where the controversy comes in, "Hey Greg, What kind of plywood did you use? It costs 11 bucks a sheet. I have used it before and I have taken strips of it and soaked them in water for days and they did Wooden Boat Plans Plywood Up not de-laminate. In fact you may be able to see a little bench in some of the photos.

There are small scraps of this ply on that table that have sat out in the rain for days and haven't de-lam'd So I am quite confident in using it. Another point that I am sure to hear about, I will not be using epoxy or any fiberglass on this boat either. Believe it or not people built boats before epoxy was invented. Some that have lasted for decades. I won't go into my reasoning too much here because I 'm sure it will be discussed in the comments section.

I am, however using one Modern Miracle. I am gluing it together with 3M , If you have never used it before, let me tell you it's some awesome stuff. When you glue something together with this stuff, fasteners are redundant.

They are only there to hold things in place til the dries. You could also use resorcinol glue but I couldn't find it in my area. I admit I didn't look that hard though.

In the first photo you can see where my frame has come apart. This was not the fault of the glue. But I glued the plywood pieces to painted wood. Big No-No. But I just took everything apart and sanded off the paint and glued it back together.

I also added a couple of screws for safety. I moved ahead with marking and cutting the plywood for the bottom without reattaching the sheer clamps to the stem to give the frame some time to set before putting any stress back on it. I re attached them before I buttoned up for the nite.. The plans said to start the bottom at one end and scarf in a piece at the other end. But I instead centered the piece and added a small piece at each end.

Check the photos for the deets. I decided to start the side planks in the middle, The same way I did the bottom. Instead of starting at one end and scarfing a piece in at the other, I would be putting a smaller piece at each end on both sides of the boat. I won't have the plywood to do this until I cut the deck pieces and side deck pieces out of the other sheet of ply.

So you may see holes in the bows over the next couple of steps. I will use the pieces that I trimmed from the side planks to patch the missing bit at the sheer line. But with the sides already on, the boat can come off of the form. I need to take the hull off it's form but first I need somewhere to put it.

The only cradle I ever build for a boat was for my model sailboat. It's just a simple folding X with straps across the top that the sailboat sits in. So I though I would try to make something like that, only bigger. I'm not sure I Really needed the dowel but at least I will be able to fold it up when I am done.

I also had to erect a shelter from the rain in my backyard. I didn't want to have to pour water out of the now upright boat every morning. Thanks to jaaaaayyyyy and his excellent instructable. I kept trying to do it my way and it wouldn't work until I finally did it his way and success!! At this point I had planned to install the floor, so I wouldn't be working over the coamings.

But I decided to wait until the boat was complete and the inside was primed. So I worked on the side Knees. This is a part that supports the side decks instead of the middle frame that we took out when moving the boat off of the form. I cut these out of the offcuts from the form itself. I wanted them to be sturdy enough to use as lifting handles for the boat. The deck beams were pretty straightforward. Cut them to the pattern and notch around the sheer clamps.

I used countersunk bolts and finish washers because they dont pull into the wood. Definitely put washers under the nuts. Once the deck frames and side knees are in, and the deck battens are in, we can start on the carlins.

These are pieces that run fore and aft on the boat, they support the side decks and, along with the deck frames, define the cockpit.

They are curved to somewhat follow the sheer clamp. They were pretty tricky to fit. The way I did it was to mark each of the beams where I wanted the Carlins to land, and screwed a small block there to hold it. Then I used a bar clamp to pull the center in to the side knee so that I could mark everything. I cut the notches in the knee and the deck beams and then installed them the opposite way. I put two screws into the knee, and a clamp for safety, then went to the other side of the boat and grabbed each end of the carlin and pulled towards me, evenly.

They dropped into the notches and I was able to glue and screw everything into place. I thought I should get some primer in this hull before installing the decks.

But I did have to cut the pieces out so that I could get the bow planks out of what was left. I installed these pieces and primed the entire inside of the boat. Next I painted the underside of the deck pieces and installed them.

Here is how I did it. I had a bit of trouble on the first one because of the arch of the deck. So I will show how I did the second one. As shown in the photos, I clamped a couple of sticks to hold down the sides so that I could get some screws into the wood and hold it down It did not want to stay there.

Yes, The Force was strong in these decks. Now on to the side decks. First clamp the side deck in place with the corners flush with the carlins and the ends overlapping the fore decks.

Mark one end with a straightedge, cut, butt it into place and mark and cut the second one. I recommend doing these one end at a time so that you can "sneak up" on the proper fit. You want it tight as possible with no gaps. You would be surprised how small a difference there is between "Just right", and "Big Gap".

I always say that the major difference between a rough carpenter and a fine carpenter is knowing which side of the line to cut. Even though the ends were pretty well supported by the sheer clamps and the carlins, I still put a small support block in there to make sure.

Once the ends were fitted I clamped it back in place and reached under to trace the carlin onto the side deck. I cut this line away from the boat with a jigsaw. Once this cut was sanded, it was ready to go back in permanently. Lay a bead of adhesive along the frames and place the piece and nail it into place. So now I am looking at 22' of excess plywood that needs trimming. It made me tired just to think about doing all this with the Dozuki Saw.

So I flipped the boat over and cut it with the jigsaw, up side down pressed up against the deck with my thumb on the trigger.

This worked well Mostly. But in a few spots where I got in a hurry I tore up the top layer of the plywood. Just more work for the finisher. Coamings are vertical pieces that surround the cockpit. They usually stand proud of the deck, in this case by about 1 inch, to keep water out of the cockpit should it come over the deck. You want to do the long pieces first. I started with 6 inch strips. After fitting all of the pieces and holding them in place with a couple of screws, I used the T shaped part of my quick square to mark all the way around.

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