$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now and we will pay the postage. You may email us regarding specific boat building questions and we will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. Fiberglass boat building panels youtube the meantime Please email me your comments on our site We have developed a 'cheap one-off mold' fiberglass boat building system that is ideal for building larger powerboats.

There are two main Ezi-Build methods - one where you build an inexpensive female mould and lay up the hull in that mould and another where you pre-make the hull panels and assemble them inside a simple frame mould.

First we will look at the female mould method. With the current rise in the number of people interested in power boats and the acceptance of chine hulls in general, we decided to simplify and streamline our original methods to make them suitable for one-off production by amateur and professional builders.

When looking at these techniques, we were developing a new range of power boat designs using the latest CAD software boaat that these designs did not involve difficult curves but instead were easily assembled in simple one-off moulds. These fiberglass boat building panels youtube designs all reflected the ability of the computer to produce absolutely fair, developable hull surfaces suitable for turning flat sheets of fiberglass into attractive hulls.

Most of the original designs were directed towards steel or aluminium but the demand for similar fiberglass methods led us to develop computer lofted hulls with full developable surfaces and the result is the Fiberglass boat building panels youtube technique. This area should be as wide as the beam of the boat plus a minimum of one foot [mm].

The depth should be the depth of the hull, plus a minimum of 3 feet [1 metre]. This space will be the minimum required to construct the frames over the patterns. This procedure will be explained in your boat plans and should be easy to follow. Remember, that you are making frames panls a female mould.

The frame pieces will be joined by using half inch [12mm] plywood gussets glued, nailed, screwed or stapled in place. Screws are strongest but staples are quickest and most convenient. Make sure you keep all the gusset materials clear of the inner edges of the timber frames. Later, you may need to trim these inner edges with a plane and nails or gussets will interfere with this process.

Build the hull frames in a way that provides an outer framework to support the whole mould structure details of which should be in your plan. In designs under 32 feet [10 metres], the bottom of the support structure can be canted 45 degrees which will enable the whole structure to be tilted, side to side, for easy lamination. On larger hulls, it is advisable to boxt scaffolding inside the hull structure to support planks for working.

For one-off boats, the relatively cheap Ezi-build mould, which is easy to disassemble, has eliminated much of the need for fiberglass boat building panels youtube more compliCATAMARANed split mould and, for those of you who fiberglass boat building panels youtube that these methods present more work than is justified, compared to building a fiberglass boat building panels youtube hull over a male mould, let me assure you after having sanded many fibreglass hulls, I feel these methods are by far the best and fastest way to build a one off fibreglass power boat or multi chine sailboat hull.

A tip on setting up the frames � if the frames forward of frame 5 are set up with their forward face on the station line and the frames aft of frame 5 are set up with their aft face on the station line, then most of fiberglass boat building panels youtube bevelling and fairing will be avoided.

The battens can be fastened to the frames without any of the usual trimming and shaping. The best sequence for installing the frames is to set up panele centre frame first, usually station 5. Make sure this frame is truly vertical, using a plumb-bob hung from the centre line marked on the headstock. Brace this frame securely so it cannot move and use boag as the reference point for setting up fiberglads remainder of the frames.

When all the frames, stem, centre line board and transom centre line board are in position and securely braced, then you can start to install the battens. Scarf the battens into full length pieces, the length of the hull plus a few inches for trimming. The batten width may vary. You should have a stock of wider boards of the correct thickness and then rip the battens to selected width depending fiberglass boat building panels youtube the requirements of your particular hull shape.

Allow these battens and the sheerline battens paneks run a few inches past the stern location. Now you may install the transom section of the mould. Camber boards are half checked at right angles to and on to the transom centre line board. Once the camber boards are in place, batten up the transom vertically. It is usually not necessary or advisable to nail the side and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside the battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom battens to hold the battens fair.

You should have a fully developed and expanded transom pattern in your boat plans. Using this pattern you may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould in one piece.

If you make the transom as a separate unit, it can be at least partially laid up away from the main mould. This is required if you have a transom with a reverse panel, bui,ding the laminate would need to be laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation. If you build the transom in place, then the transom pattern can be used to cut the lining material.

While you are installing the transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould. Always install battens on alternate sides of the centre line, working progressively on both sides.

After all battens are in place, install fairing gussets or strips of one half inch [12mm] thick by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two strips between each frame. The strips run from sheer to the chine and from the chine to the centre line. The strips will buildkng out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly fibefglass in fairing up your hull.

You will need two people to install these plywood strips. As you fiberglass boat building panels youtube be attaching the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you should make sure the battens are fair before you start to install the lining material. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any other suitable sheeting material.

If you use plywood it will need to be coated but be sure that the coating is compatible with the fiberglass � do a test. From this stage onward work closely with your fiberglxss materials supplier and take his advice on the correct wax and release agent to use on the mould. Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to.

By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould. Carefully pre-fit each sheet before applying the cement fiberglasd attaching it to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining providing you work fiberglass boat building panels youtube some care.

Note the set bhilding for the scaffold planks so that you can work inside the mold without walking over the fresh laminate material. The boat plans have much more detail than can be included.

Also, radius any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For this job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will be installing. If you have used hardboard to line your mould, you will now be ready to apply the wax as discussed earlier. If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC fiberglass boat building panels youtube. You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable.

We would recommend you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear. To start the laminating process, choose a day oyutube the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius. Brush or spray the gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0.

You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier. Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin. This is important so see your resin supplier about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation and avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a fiberglasss date.

You will need bozt or three helpers as you start to lay up the hull and it is advisable, for temperature control, to be at the same stage of fiberglass boat building panels youtube each day with each successive layer. If the laminate overheats from applying too toutube material fiberglass boat building panels youtube one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from the mould.

Once the gelcoat and first layer of mat are in place you will have passed pwnels most critical stage of your laminating process. Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems.

As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing workers can lay up a fifty foot [20 metres] hull in a few days. Two layers of fibreglass per day, one mat and one roving, is a reasonable amount to install at fiberglass boat building panels youtube go without causing the laminate to overheat. New resins are being formulated all the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from your materials supplier.

The number of layers of mat and roving required will fiberglass boat building panels youtube shown in your boat plans. After the layers that cover the whole hull surfaces are completed, you will most likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of the keel and below the hull waterline. Most laminate schedules call for fiberglass boat building panels youtube and or interleaving the various layers in the areas such as the chine and keel, thus building up extra builring where it is required.

Again, we remind you to trim fiberglass boat building panels youtube sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the final layer for the day has been installed. Once you have installed the basic laminate and any extra layers called for in your plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc and any other reinforcing members called for in your boat plans.

You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould. After you have completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc fiberglass boat building panels youtube if you do not plan fiberglass boat building panels youtube use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as a cradle.

Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the minimum of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish. This Waverunner 65 has now been chartering in the Greek Islands for several years In either case, the best method to install the core is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core can be installed manually. Boaf you intend building a sandwich hull, please read the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core materials.

The main advantage of using this technique is fiberglass boat building panels youtube a full mould is not required. You will retain the advantage that a minimum of finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull. Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional standard of finish.

For panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them up on a set of bedlogs, is similar fiberglass boat building panels youtube the methods used when building an Ezi-build mould.

Only a few battens are required to hold the frames square and vertical. The technique of setting up the basic framework fiberglass boat building panels youtube hold the fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of building the Ezi-build mould.

The fewer battens required and the absence of a mould lining material, are the main differences between the Pajels and the Panel methods. Additional bracing is used on the outside of the frame assembly and once the frames and the few battens are fiberglasz the mould is ready for the fibreglass panels.

Final:

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Clean the fiberglass with soap and water and wipe it down with a rag soaked in acetone, and immediately removing it with a clean dry rag. When the fiberglass is dry, mix gelcoat with methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in a bucket to activate the gelcoat.

For small sections of fiberglass, apply the gelcoat with a brush. For tips on how to sand and wax the gelcoat once it dries, keep reading!

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No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Fill in any cracks or gouges in the fiberglass with polyester filler, marine grade. Epoxy filler, although a great product is not suitable for a gel-cote top coat.

Polyester gel-cotes will not chemically bond to epoxy. To fill in damaged areas, start by sanding them with coarse 36 grit sandpaper to remove any debris. Then, fill in the damaged areas with the polyester filler using Fiberglass Panels For Boat Building Up a plastic spreader. Clean the fiberglass surface with ajax or comet and water. Go over the fiberglass with a soapy rag and then wipe it down with a clean rag to remove any leftover suds. Wipe the fiberglass down with acetone to remove grease and wax.

Part 1 Quiz How should you fix cracks in your fiberglass before applying gelcoat? Sand them down. Fill them with epoxy. Just clean them with Comet or Ajax.

Gelcoat will take care of the cracks. Want more quizzes? Keep testing yourself! Part 2 of Combine gelcoat and methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in a bucket. Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide MEKP is a catalyst used to make gelcoat start to harden. Add gelcoat color pigments if you want your gelcoat to be colored.

If you want the gelcoat to be a different color than white, you'll need to add color pigments. Brush the gelcoat onto the fiberglass using short vertical strokes. You want there to be a thick, even layer of gelcoat on the fiberglass. A gelcoat spray gun will make it easier to get an even coverage on a large fiberglass surface. To use a gelcoat spray gun, fill the plastic container on the gun with your gelcoat. Then, attach the cord on the gun to an air supply source, like an air compressor.

Hold the spray gun about 1 foot 0. Let the first coat of gelcoat dry for 4 hours and then check on it. The first coat should feel tacky when you touch it. If your fingernail does leave an impression, let the gelcoat dry for a couple more hours. Apply 2 more coats of gelcoat to the fiberglass. Let the second coat dry for 4 hours like you did with the first coat.

For the final cote add sanding aid.. A mixture of styrene and gulf wax, to the gel-cote and add MEKP as before. This may be purchased at the same place you bought the gel-cote. It is important to note that gelcoat is air inhibited, meaning that it will not fully cure in the presence of oxygen.

The wax migrates to the surface of the final coat and creates a barrier to allow the gel to cure. It colors it. It helps it harden. August 9, July 26, July 5, June 28, Giveaway Winners!! June 14, Boatworks Today And Totalboat Giveaway! June 7, May 31, May 24, BoatProjects May 17, Bertram Moppie Update!! May 3, April 19, April 12, This Bertram Hates Me lol!

March 22, Does The Transom Leak?!?? March 8, March 1, February 23, February 16, February 9, February 2, January 26, January 19, January 12, December 22, December 1, November 10, October 20, October 13, October 6, September 8, September 1, August 4, July 21, July 14, June Books On Fiberglass Boat Building 60 30, June 23, June 16, Deagle, you can build a plywood boat that will last for years if you do it right in the beginning.

The general idea is to isolate the wood from water, particularly fresh water. You can do a creditable job of making that happen with the WEST wood epoxy saturation technique and subsequent paint.

It is not an absolute but it can and does yield a structure that will resist rot, soaking, and weight gain for longer than you are likely to keep the boat.

It is not hard to do and adds only a moderate amount of initial cost. I would save more money, study resin infusion then go with foam. I guess the other thing is, do you plan to go on and build lots of boats? If you plan to make a career of boat building, then its worth learning foam and infusion eventually , as that is far more suited to commercial production techniques.

If this is your first boat, perhaps starting with plywood is the way to go. Also, since you live in a cold climate, a trimaran is a fairly wet, cold way to go. I think it would be quite difficult to get a composite panel to be versatile enough to be left on a mooring for season after season. It would be fine if you wanted to spend a lot of money building a boat that you planned to mollycoddle, but it is fussy to try and work out all the reinforcements you would want in the takes-care-of-herself version.

The hull shell would not be lighter than a ply panel hull of equal durability and you might have trouble finding core that is thin enough for the application. Composite panels in the interior might be put to better use.

If you seriously want to build one that can live on a mooring, I'd use Meranti marine BS ply. I'd coat the panels with a very hard epoxy resin, let it kick off for a day, and then drape with 10oz woven cloth that has a very fine weave wetted out with ordinary laminating epoxy, Or perhaps two drops of 6 oz deck glass that is even flatter and easier to completely fill.

You can actually get the glass off the boat without marring the plywood if you do this. I'd run a drape of 4 oz stuff on the inside on the hulls as well. This can be squeegeed over that same, hard, neat epoxy seal with bubble filled laminating epoxy. Wrap inner over edges and lap an inch, then fit hardwood cap piece over all edges. Hull to deck joint is cap piece to cap piece, which is then wrapped in glass tape.

Boats get up to all kinds of mischief on a mooring. Better would be to plan on 12 days in and 2 days out for the summer. The W looks like a fine little boat that wouldn't find industrial strength hulls objectionable. Cutwaters should have at least 40 oz of glass built Fiberglass Boat Building Panels Uk up one way or another for mooring duty. Chafe happens. What does the designer list for bare hull weight? And does the designer have any ideas as far as rigging a mooring bridle?

Not all boats take to a mooring. Some cannot be made to sit quietly no matter what you do. There is no benefit to use foam in this manner on this size boat.

If you do not seal your core well from moisture intrusion, be it plywood or foam, the structure will fall apart eventually. Foam will eventually rot, mold and decompose it if gets saturated with water, just as much as wood.

You still have to seal the foam from the moisture as much as plywood, there is no benefit in terms of durability to use foam core over plywood. Durably comes from construction method and the quality of build. Both have to be well sealed and well maintained to preclude moisture intrusion into either core material. That said, plywood is usually far less expensive to build, easier to work with and can weigh less that foam cored fiberglass.

Plywood contributes to the primary structure, while foam has very little structural properties. Because of this you will need much more fiberglass on the outside to make it the equivalent strength, adding costs and extra work, as well as weight. Unless you are planning on using costly carbon fabrics and vacuum bagged or epoxy infusion construction process, the much simpler plywood and fiberglass will weight much less and cost much less.

For example, in a similar size hull, in sea kayaks, production hand laid up fiberglass over foam sandwich hull, vacuum bagged and hand finished, for 17 ft single sea kayak, will weight about 45 to 60 lbs depending on the accessories, hatches, seat style, etc as compared to an equivalent hand built marine ply stitch and glue with a single layer of fiberglass and epoxy hand laid up, no vac bagging , and several coats of clear finish for UV protection, will weight in at about 30 to 35 lbs, similarly equipped.

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