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A stable but fast double-ended rowing or sailing boat based on a traditional Maine Peapod. A lightweight beach cruising and expedition boat for sailing, rowing and motoring, which can also be built as a motor launch without the sailing rig. An 11 foot 7 inch clinker style pram dinghy that performs beautifully when rowed, sailed or motored.
A pretty, light, tough, roomy and easy to build 7 foot 9 inch pram dinghy that can be rowed or sailed. An easy to build rowing and sailing pram dinghy that splits into two nesting sections for compact storage. A popular v-bottom pram dinghy that is perfect as a tender, a pond utility boat or for just messing about in. An innovative 15 foot canoe stern yawl with a large sail area and a fast, lightweight hull. A modern wooden canoe yawl for engineless coastal cruising by sail and oars, designed to be affordably built by an amateur.
A versatile nesting dinghy for day sailing and camp cruising with a comfortable double berth. Now, starting in the center, wire stitch on the next panel, putting a few stitches on each side of the center line.
Keep working from side to side doing a few on each side until you get to the ends. When you get to the upper panels, line up the ends and stitch them together. Try to keep them as even as possible, with a nice canoe end curve. You should begin to see the canoe coming together at this point. Review your work. With the panels stitched together, put a stick about 1" square and 29" long at the top center inside of the canoe.
This will hold it to the right width and shape. Now, stand back and look it over. Is it fair, with nice flowing lines and no twist? If not tighten or loosen the wire stitches as necessary, or even add a stitch if needed.
Make sure it looks pleasing to the eye. Check to see if there is any twist in the canoe, using winding sticks. Make sure the panel edges are all sitting on top of each other nice and tight and not overlapping at any point. This gives you a nice smooth side. More detailed instructions on how to do a transition joint can be found in many books covering stitch and glue boat building or on the internet.
Finally, be sure that the panels are not pushed out from each other at any one point, you want nice, smooth-stitched seams. Part 2 of Apply some epoxy. Mix up just enough epoxy to cover the joints between the panels. This is done by using a mixing cup 8oz. Then use a foam paint brush to apply the epoxy to the joints. Try to cover each edge about an inch on either side of the joint, making sure that it soaks into the joint to get a good bond.
Make it look like you're painting a strip down the joint. Remember that the joints of the panels and stems only get epoxied on the inside for now. Repeat this process for each of the joints. Try not to let the epoxy run down the sides of the panels -- you only want it on the joint, no runs. If you have any runs, use another brush to wipe them up. This just makes life easier when it comes to sanding the inside of the boat.
Remember to check the outside of the seams for runs as well. Put two coats of epoxy on the joints and stems stems are the ends of the boat , letting the epoxy dry before re-coating. Be sure the stems are pulled tightly together using the stitches before applying the epoxy.
Don't use clamps to pull the stems ends together, stitches only! Each coat of epoxy needs about 24 hours to dry, so try to have a little patience while dreaming of that smooth glassy lake! Remove the wire stitches.
When the epoxy is dry, check to ensure that the joints are fully epoxied with no dry spots areas without epoxy. If they are, you can start cutting and pulling out the wire stitches. Do this with care, as the panels' joints are still fragile at this point.
Try not to break the epoxy join, and don't leave any wire in the boat. If you pull out a wire and the joint opens, put a stitch back in and epoxy that joint area again. Apply a mixture of epoxy and wood flour. Once all of the wire is out, mix up some epoxy and wood flour very fine sawdust. You can find wood flour at any boat building supplier.
This mixture is known as a fillet. Apply this fillet to the joints that you put the epoxy on. However, you should be careful not to add too much epoxy, as it can become brittle. Add fiberglass tape to the inside of the boat. Now it's time to add a 3" wide fiberglass tape which is cloth-like, rather than sticky to the freshly fillet-coated joints and stems. To make the joint as smooth as possible, add just enough epoxy to turn the fiberglass clear, then use a squeegee to remove any excess.
Remember that applying too much epoxy is as bad as applying too little. Be gentle while doing this, as you don't want to push the fresh fillet mix out of the joint when you push down on the fiberglass with the squeegee. When you get to the stems, add a 3" wide strip of fiberglass to the inside of the stems over the fillet. Allow the stem end fiberglass to come down over the center strip of fiberglass tape, as this will make one complete, strong joint.
You will need to add a second coat of epoxy to these tapes after the first coat cures, again waiting 24 hours between each coat.
Sand the boat. Once the second coat of epoxy has dried, it's time to turn the boat over. Enlist the help of another person to turn the boat over -- remember to be very gentle, as the boat is still fragile at this point. Then use sandpaper 80 grit to smooth up the joint edge, being careful not to sand too deep into the plywood. Sand the entire outside of the boat, using a grit sandpaper.
Make sure to clean up any drips and runs from the epoxy that ran through the joints. When the sanding is done wipe off the excess dust using a cheesecloth, then use compressed air and a clean cloth to remove the more stubborn dust. Sweep the floor, and wait until the dust has settled before proceeding.
Apply epoxy and fiberglass to the outside of the boat. Once the dust has settled, you can apply a thin, even coat of epoxy to the smooth, bare wood on the outside of the canoe using a good foam brush. Again, 24 hours to wait for the epoxy to dry.
Lightly sand the epoxy-coated outside of the boat with grit paper. This is only necessary to provide a tooth for the next coat of epoxy and fiberglass to hold to. Now it's time to add fiberglass cloth to the outside of the boat. The fiberglass can weigh anywhere between 4 oz and 8oz, depending on the intended use of the canoe. The larger the fiberglass the heavier the canoe will be as the heavier fiberglass requires more epoxy. Use the same technique of applying the fiberglass to the outside of the boat, then applying a layer of epoxy on top.
If you have never done this before, it's a good idea to read as much as you can about it first. Being informed will help you do a really nice job on the boat. Trim the fiberglass and epoxy. You will need to trim the epoxy and fiberglass cloth approximately two hours after applying, just before the epoxy starts to harden. If you wait until the epoxy hardens, it will be very hard to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges of the canoe.
To trim the fiberglass cloth, use a razor knife and trim off the cloth along the gunnel's edges. Be gentle while trimming -- try not to pull on the cloth as it is still wet and it will move and cause you problems. Add another coat of epoxy, then sand the boat. After the first coat of epoxy has been applied to the fiberglass cloth and is dry, add another coat to fill the weave of the cloth, giving you a nice smooth surface. Be aware that it might take more than two coats to fill the weave of the cloth depending on the type and weight of the cloth.
With the fiberglass on and trimmed, give the outside a light sanding with grit sandpaper, then clean off all dust. You can now clear coat or paint the boat. Part 3 of Turn the boat over. Carefully turn the boat right side up and place it in a cradle or in slings.
This is a good time to build a set of saw horses to set and cradle the canoe in so it won't move while you work on the inside. Attach the gunnels. Gunnels are the top rails of the canoe, which are placed on the inside and outside edges on both sides of the canoe.
Use epoxy and brass or bronze screws to attach the gunnels at the front " of the gunnels. You can use the epoxy and spring clamps to attach the gunnels to the canoe until the epoxy dries. At the stem ends on top of the canoe you can fit small decks, on top of the rails or between them, if you take the time and effort to make a good fit.
Flush decks look the best. Apply a second coat of clear varnish or paint. Keep in mind that you will have to do one or the other, as epoxy alone will not last when exposed to the sun. When you've finished painting or varnishing the outside, it's time to turn the canoe over and do the inside, clear coat or paint. Sand, epoxy and paint the inside of the boat. Sand the inside of the boat, removing any drips or runs. Try to not sand through the top plywood layer.
When all the sanding is done, it's time to coat the inside of the boat with. For best results, do this in two or three thin layers of epoxy, waiting 24 hours between coats. When this is all done you can sand the last coat lightly with a grit sandpaper and then a grit to get a really smooth finish.
Wipe away any dust, then paint or varnish the inside. Add seats. You can add seats before or after you epoxy coat the inside of the How To Build A Dinghy Derby Boat Jack boat. On a light canoe such as this one with a low freeboard, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low in the boat as possible. Give the boat time to dry. Let the whole thing set for about a week -- this gives the layers of epoxy and finish time to dry completely.
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