Making A Paddle Holster Kit,Fishing Lights For Pontoon Boat Zip,Aluminum Bay Boats For Sale In Texas Singapore - Reviews
27.01.2021, admin
Consider this a practical and quick how-to guide on how to make a leather holster. I have trimmed down all the steps to only those necessary to make this a simple and fast weekend project.
This is a fairly simple project and you will learn basic template skills, leather cutting, leather finishing, and stitching.
However I realized after going through a bunch of those long and detailed posts, it kinda took the fun out of making the holster and made it a bit stressful. If you would like to see the current holsters I make in the shop, and possibly buy one for yourself � check out all holster options here. Now assuming you are putting a gun in this holster�you might want to get your gun first.
As well you will need some leather. I recommend Full-Grain Vegetable-Tanned leather at about 9 � 10oz. Leather dye is also optional if you want to darken the leather � though this will also happen naturally over time with sun exposure and exposure to oils and use. Also, get a cup or so of olive oil, or a good leather conditioner. I sell some that I make in the shop , but I only make it in small quantities. As well � a few paper towels and a sponge. I spend most of my free time creating tutorials like this to help those like yourself get into leatherwork and woodworking, or get better at it.
If you'd like to support my efforts, consider checking out my handmade leather goods shop and purchasing a gift for yourself or a loved one. It's readers like you that help keep a small U. First grab your posterboard paper. Place the unloaded gun in the lower right quarter of the paper this tutorial is set up for a right handed holster just FYI.
As you can see in the photo I show the end pattern we are going to create, so you have an idea of where we are headed. This line will become the fold line in a few minutes � that way we can duplicate the shape like a butterfly wing so it matches up when the stitching takes place.
I also put a dot just in the middle of the trigger area slightly forward, and a random dot at the top of the gun where the cylinder ends just for reference. The dots I just made are a reference for where the edge of the holster should be for a decent fit � different types of guns may differ of course, so if yours is slimmer than a revolver, you may want to tighten it a bit. Anyhow � go ahead and trace a shape along those lines connecting the dots.
Now the top part of the holster can be eyeballed � I put in a curve to cover the rest of the cylinder area, but backing off a bit by the time it reaches the hammer. Next I only partially cut out what I just drew, then I am going to fold it along that line we made earlier.
If you happen to have whats called a Bone Folder, you can use it to crease along that straight line we drew, otherwise � at this point I went ahead and folded the pattern up and over along that line, then traced the outline around the bottom of the holster up to the top just where it makes a sharp turn noted by the arrow , you can stop there. Take a look at the straight line you drew at the very beginning.
I drew a dotted line so you can see how I am imagining an extension off of it. This line represents where the holster will bend again to make the back skirt that secures it around the belt. The angle of this line will affect how the gun will draw out of the holster. Then fold that piece up and over onto the left side of the sheet. Near the top top right in photo I faded closer in to the holster.
Next � time to mark the holes for the skirt � this is where the holster will slide into and become secured. That was rough. I then repeated that process on the other side of the skirt for the other end of those holes. However, I placed the dots slightly higher � to give the holes a bit of an angle � for looks of course! The holes can then be freehanded in place. Again, precision is not entirely necessary here.
Now do what you can to cut that entire piece out as well as the holes. The holes are easier to cut if you hole punch the ends, then use a razor and ruler to cut the straight lines between those holes. For this I am using a fairly thick full-grain vegetable-tanned hide. Usually I start with the rolling blade and a ruler for all the easy straight cuts.
Careful not to over cut with the razor, as a nick in the leather here may turn into a tear a few years later. Then I alternate between a sharp pair of scissors and a rusty razor blade. One will kind of set the line you need and the other goes the rest of the way through. Keep those fingers out of the way, razors will occasionally jump like a bronco straight off the plains. If possible err on the side of not cutting enough off � as you can go in and sand things down in a later step.
After putting a layer of dye on the top side only, I flip the leather over and apply a medium-thin layer of oil to it. There are many types of oil you can use with vegetable tanned leather, though some do think that certain oils can go rancid, or possible degrade the leather over time.
I urge you to experiment with this step and see what works for you. The idea of oiling leather is simply to replenish the oils that wash out of the leather when you dye it and work it. Oils help to lubricate the fibers and keep leather from cracking and breaking down. It can be easy to over-oil, and your piece will look soggy and gross. To give the holster a bit more character I used the swivel knife and ruler to lay out reference lines I would the use to stamp designs along.
I put a few on the skirt as well � though keep in mind which part will show and which will be hidden behind the holster. Apparently I forgot. Using the weighted mallet and some random stamps one of which is the basket weave, but no matter! Above you can see the entirety of my stamping efforts, though minimal � they will go a long way to giving the leather holster a bit more character.
I will admit that my stamping skills are still in their infancy since I tend not to adorn my pieces too much. I beveled the top side completely, and the back side only in the areas where they will not be sewn together.
You can see in the photo where I start and stop the line. I make sure to just round the top of the holster � this will give it extra strength at a place where it is likely to wear a lot. Going back along that line I use the diamond stitching punch and set all of the holes on one side.
Each time I lift the punch � I set the last punch chisel into the previous hole � that way things are evenly spaced. Unfortunately for me I left the 1 prong and 2 prong punch at home�so I had to improvise on the tighter corners using a lacing chisel I had, that is similar, but not diamond shaped. And then� several minutes later I realized I had a traditional diamond awl sitting right next to me the whole time � darn!
To get the holes on the other edge punched you need to flip the leather over, use the creaser again on the edge you have not already punched while the leather is a bit damp , then start punching again. By flipping the leather over the diamond shapes will still align when pressed together to be sewn.
Usually you would use a single diamond awl and punch the holes as you go � but for a lot of people this results in messy stitches, blood and a bit of pain as well�that is � at least until you get through that phase.
When you get near the end top of the holster , you should stop at the peak of the curve. Leave things there for now, the last couple of holes are easier to predict once we stitch everything up to that point. But before we jump to stitching we should burnish all of the edges except the side that is getting stitched.
To really get a good edge, you should start with a medium-fine grit like then work down to a fine grit sandpaper like a , sand down those edges as nice as possible. Then wet just the edge of the leather slightly before taking it to the cocobolo burnisher.
Mine has a piece of waxed canvas attached to speed up the process. The burnisher will spin in the drill press so everything can happen fairly quickly. Time to get down to stitching. I just might make a tutorial on that one day for now I have this other belt tutorial. Set your piece up in the stitching pony so that the holes are just above the grips.
It may be a bit awkward to get it into position, but do your best. Grab about a length of thread equal to both arms spread wide open, palm to palm, and add an extra foot or two for good measure.
Even this short length of stitching requires a lot of thread. To fasten the thread on the needles I first run the thread through the eye hole�. Then leaving about a 6 inch tail I pierce the thread with the needle�. I then pull the thread to tighten the loop around the eye hole. This method keeps the thread as thin as possible, making it easier to pass through tight stitching holes.
Repeat the step on the other end of the thread, so that two needles are attached to one length or thread. To start the saddle stitch I always start from the right hand side and make sure that side is also the top facing side of my project.
Every step from here on out should be repeated exactly the same for each stitch�this is a good way to get your stitching up to a pretty good level of perfection. Pull half of the thread through the hole so you have equal lengths on both sides. Now the stitching begins, start with the next hole up and pass the right needle through the right side. Then pull down and towards you on both ends of the thread � this clears a path for the next needle to pass through without penetrating the thread.
If you pierce the thread your stitching will come to a rapid halt and you will need to spend some minutes untangling it. Then drop the thread up and over to the back side of the needle. The saddle stitch is the best stitch in this case due to the fact that if one stitch breaks, the others havea better chance of holding the piece together until you get it repaired. Now pull both ends of the thread tight.
With a final tight pull once all thread is through. Then � continue those steps with each stitch hole until you get all the way to the top of the holster where we still have a few un-punched holes. Here I take my diamond punch awl and carefully feed it into the top side hole, and push until I pierced the back side. Unfortunately mine was not, so what I did instead was used the diamond punch awl to make a mark int he back side at each hole.
So if we have the devise of structure the hovercraft, as good as belligerent knowledge to uncover puncture conditions. Lorem lpsum 265 boatplans/used-boats-sale/ebay-used-fishing-boats-for-sale-by-owner-engineer Http://myboat265 boatplans/used-boats-sale/ebay-used-fishing-boats-for-sale-by-owner-engineer.html not as impassioned we're loosing the accumulation of woodworkers this year.
MotorT writes: I've the Dovetail hop with all a bells as well as whistles, pipework as makign as so forth, ?U.
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