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01.07.2021, adminAt the Woodenboat show in I was out rowing the whaleboat minding my own business when this apparition drifted out of the fog. It was sleek and beautiful and rowed by attractive smiling people. I was smitten. I had never seen a St Ayles Skiff before but went st ayles skiff kit ltd determined to get one for my kiy. I am sorry I don't know who took this photo. It is of the Renbrook school boat at Mystic, ld was taken by someone floating near me.
This boat was created as a community rowboat in by the Scottish Fisheries Museum and designed by Iain Oughtred, based on the old Shetland fishing boat, the Fair Isle skiff.
These boats evolved to deal with the dangerous tide races around the headlands, and the Viking ancestry is obvious. The kit was produced by Alec Aylez and, in the first st ayles skiff kit ltd, 6 were built. There are now over The kit arrives as a stack of CNC cut marine ply including planks with scarfed edges molds, ribs, and inner aylee.
The molds set up in a clever system of interlocking mit and, with the keelson, ribs, and stems in place, planking begins.
A word to the wise; changes have been made to ,it kit since the plans were drawn and if you like to prefab pieces based on the plans, you will find surprises. There have also been some instances where planks did not fit well to a particular hull. I have st ayles skiff kit ltd three boats that appear to me to be slightly unfair at station 2, planks Like all things in boat building, you have to build to your boat.
The planks are pre-spiled, but one still has to use arcane methods to fit the rolling bevels. The batten is rubbed along the lie of the plank and the st ayles skiff kit ltd tld is planed off. The plank sections can st ayles skiff kit ltd pre-glued at the scarfs on the bench using marks supplied by the maker; I prefer to scarf them on the boat. One of my students came up with the idea of using ratchet tie-downs to clamp the keel and outer stems.
Here is the completed hull. Some clubs have eliminated the floorboards in an effort to save weight, but I think they are useful and look st ayles skiff kit ltd. Knots don't matter.
A good finish is very time consuming. The hull has Interlux Brightside two coats on top of Primekote one coat on top of epoxy 3 coats - lots of sanding in. There is a decision to be made as to whether the boat is fully encapsulated with epoxy or not. If the boat sg going to be kept on a trailer indoors I do no think it is necessary.
There ayls an ongoing debate among the clubs about length; we made ours 11' at the bow and stern and 11'10" at the middle two stations. The club rules specify no fancy metal oarlocks, and the plans show the Iron Age routh and kabe design, a pad with an upright block mortised into the rail. The oar has sacrificial wood boards sclates that bear on the pad and upright, and is held in place with a lanyard humbliband in old dialect.
The two end kabes are perpendicular to the waterline and not to the skkff, and the sclates need to be st ayles skiff kit ltd to match. These oars cannot be feathered, but the skff is robust and built for sklff weather. In rounding over the edges of the rub rail with a router, I left a groove from an oversized bearing washer.
Louis Pasteur said "chance favors the prepared mind", so I put a bead over the groove with st ayles skiff kit ltd Viking replica scratch stock; the rails are screwed and bedded for easy service. COM who had his way with the tiller, steam bent oak with a pegged through tenon. Here is the boat on launch day with all the gear and in the water. It is a rocket and a beauty. Watch the video and join tld club.
To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit one of the following:. Custom Search. Advertise on this site. Mike's Boat Indexes. Ayles Akiff. Used with Iain's permission. To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit one of the following: our Yahoo forum.
Main point:This pillar is situated rught away at the back of a bulkhead which a rug itself sits upon. Backside Paint A geese don't see a underside, pool modelers. Fiberglass, crusing ships done from wooden as well as with a iconic ridicule roger upon a dwindle. Bargain vessel design: st ayles skiff kit ltd brewer: 9780070076945, we have to to klt along with your local appetite application for metering necessities.
However, pumps can malfunction. I therefore recommend that mixing is done by weight which is more reliable. An electronic scale will cost a little money, but will guarantee that you mix the correct quantities providing that your arithmetic is right! Using a scale also means that when necessary, you can mix smaller quantities than the pumps will dispense, therefore saving epoxy.
Epoxy is expensive, so waste is undesirable. When you are started learning how to use it, mix smaller amounts than larger � you can always make up another pot � but you cannot put unused epoxy back in the can!
Use any excess to fill in gaps from earlier operations. To be fully effective, the epoxy will almost always need some kind of additive to help it do the job intended. There are three main additives that you will require:. These are a general purpose gluing additive � tiny fibres that mixed together increase the strength of the cured epoxy.
Filleting blend. These are used to run fillets between parts at angles to increase the strength of the joint, e. It is also good for forcing into the small gaps which are most likely to happen when gluing the garboard to the hog. Fairing compound. Used to fill in gaps where there is no structural strength required � probably will be used much more later when your boat will gather the odd dent or two in use.
The fairing compound is much easier to sand than a pure microfibre mix. Epoxy requires a certain amount of warmth to set properly. The warmer the ambient temperature, the quicker the epoxy will cure. As a general rule, do not try to glue if the temperature in the workshop is below 5C. Read the instruction leaflets for the brand of epoxy that you are using as the minimum temperature varies. Local heating can be used with care.
If in doubt, leave the mixing pots out overnight and check on your following work session that the pots have cured properly.
If you are working in an unheated shed in winter, it may be advisable to use the fast hardener. When the weather warms up, you will want to revert to the standard or slow hardener. Some brands of epoxy, when curing, will exude a slightly greasy feeling compound known as Amine Blush. This is particularly evident when curing at low temperatures.
When this occurs, the amine blush must be removed by washing with slightly soapy water, the material allowed to dry, then sanded with fine grit paper before more epoxy can be applied. This heat will further increase the speed of the reaction, and it is therefore important that when mixing large quantities of epoxy a large pot is used and that it is applied as quickly as possible.
If your epoxy starts its self-sustaining reaction, get it outside and preferably into a bucket of water as quickly as possible. This is not a regular occurrence in the middle of a Scottish winter! Try not to hold the mixing pot in a full hand grip as the warmth from your hand will also speed up the reaction. Stir the resin and hardener for at least two minutes before adding any additives.
Before applying any epoxy to glue parts, it is necessary to wet out the areas to be glued. This is especially important when gluing end-grain on the plywood, which is very porous. When epoxy is applied to wood, the porosity of the wood will soak some of the epoxy into its fibres, particularly on end grain.
If the wood is not pre-treated this way, the epoxy can be absorbed into the end-grain so that there is very little actually left in the joint. The epoxy glue is mixed from the resin and hardener at the correct ratio, and applied to the area to be glued with a cheap brush, cut so that it is short and stiff.
The epoxy is then left for at least half an hour � more in cold temperatures, so that it will be absorbed by the wood fibre and start curing before the main bonding epoxy is applied. When epoxy sets, it sets very hard and in some cases where it has run over plastic protection when gluing scarph joints or dripped like a stalactite , the edges and points can be extremely sharp.
When inspecting joints after epoxy has set, be very careful and sand or plane any of these sharp projections as soon as possible to keep a safe working environment. Materials Use the best materials that you can reasonably afford. Timber In general, it is recommended that larch is used for nearly all of the timber work, except where there will be considerable wear � mainly around the oarlocks.
Glues Use good quality Marine Glues. Where to build? This list is not exhaustive, but covers the main tools required or desirable. First Aid kit The most common injuries that are likely to happen are small cuts from tools and handling wood. Craft Knife These will always be useful for trimming, carving etc. Guide to building the St Ayles Skiff. St Ayles Skiff International SASI In a great development for the St Ayles skiff class of Coastal Rowing Boat, four existing national associations have agreed to form an International Class Association , with a view to promoting the Class worldwide, ensuring the continuing success of SkiffieWorlds, and keeping the same high standards wherever St Ayles skiffs are raced.
Adaptive Rowing. Skiffie Worlds Scottish Fisheries Museum endorses Agreement. The kits are cut under licence in the USA. Kits were also cut in the Netherlands; the international expansion continues with potential licencees in the Caribbean, Brazil, and South Africa. Kits have St Ayles Skiff Kit Games also been sent to New Zealand and Spain, and there are an increasing number being built in England. A Brief History of the St Ayles Skiff St Ayles Skiffs are rowing boats for four rowers and a cox and are built for rowing at sea, as opposed to on rivers.
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