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Simply said:

I recollect shopping my nephew the Lego Palace. Toy-themed beds have been beguiling for teenagers as scrupulously. Now for a Chappelle criticism which pillar length being 3 occasions 190 lamp .

I reserve the right to sell it locally. Thank you and best wishes-ynotmotors. This is not my first Bass Tracker restoration. So I am not an amateur. Officially her name is Hydra but technically she is Tracker 4.

I am a military Veteran, and then a 20 yr. Even though I gave that up professionally, I still dabbled in buying and selling cars and motorcycles as a hobby, always treating my customers like I wouldlike to be treated. For the last ten years of my life I have been a 5th grade reading teacher where I taught Language Arts in title one inner city schools.

Two years ago I had a neighbor down on his luck with a broke down Bass Tracker he was trying to sell. My dad has a lake house with a three boat lift and at the time no boat. One thing led to another, I bought that boat, I fell in love with Bass Trackers and over the last couple of years, I believe that I have become a Bass Tracker expert. How did that happen? One thing is for sure, these aluminum boats are works of art and when bass tracker makes them they put out the finest hull, in my opinion.

Google: hp engine for sale, and see what they go for. This particular boat was just about ready to list when I was fine tuning the carbs and all of a sudden the side of the motor starts to glow red when finally a hole had burnt through the side of the engine.

Apparently along the line someone had repaired a hole on the side of the crank case with JB weld and then sold the motor.

It held for a while, long enough to sell it to me. Currently that motor is being parted out on ebay, and that is why there is an Evinrude blue stripe along the side of this boat as it was to match that engine. It is in very nice condition, I repainted the skeg.

The hood was discolored so I hit it with some flat back paint and it looks really sharp. Since my old controls would not adapt to this engine, you also get a new out of the box Mercury remote control system with working tilt and trim buttons. It was designed to get you in and out of tight spots, and let you load and float in the shallows. A new out of the box fully adjustable transom saver takes away some of the stress from the transom while towing.

This boat will float in almost no water. The hull is not just super strong it is super lite. The boat hull inside and out was steam cleaned, filled with water to check for leaks, and then all debris knocked off with a soft stainless steel wire brush wheel, and lightly polished. That is why the hull looks new. I am very impressed with Trackers Hull. This one is especially neat as it has natural dual ambient live wells.

Even though we are starting to get into the boat, I want to finish with me. Number one, I do it right. This boat has been restored to better than Industry standards! No corners have been cut. Sadly she needs a good home with an aspiring fisherman because that is why she was built, with much love. When I got this boat 7 months ago, I was prepared to strip it, replace the floors, re-do the wiring, change fluids and hoses, carpet, repair welds all the usual stuff, when I realized I had a rotten transom, my heart sank.

The transom was replaced correctly once again using better than industry standards, the labor was intense and the formation of the new transom time consuming, however we can now say that your boat has a new transom that will outlive any of her future owners. In addition all the foam that was originally in the boat, is back in the boat unless it was no longer serviceable, and it was then replaced with a suitable high tech product.

The boats steering cable was shot so, it was replaced, to include the entire helm Teleflex system to include the steering wheel. Two new bilge pumps were added. One is hardwired with an auto float and the other is manual, just in case. The boat has two new Ever Start Marine batteries. One dedicated to crank the engine and the auto bilge, and the rest of the electronics are wired off the other battery, everything has a fuse.

While, we are talking about wiring; all wiring is correct and professional. Aluminum boats are a bit special; all grounds must be run back to the battery or it does real ugly things to the hull of your boat.

There are no wires that run down the center of the hull allowing them to be submerged below water, like I see over and over creating magnetic fields and the decay of the aluminum. The boat is equipped with LED lighting above and below the deck. The sound system is a watt, Pyle Marine sound system with waterproof speakers, resistant no radio or CD here just plug in your IPOD, Android or IPhone via the phone Jack, there is a place on the console that you can put your device into for water resistance while under way.

I installed two 12V plug ins on the console if you need extra power. Up front there is a brand new MinnKota 45; not foot controlled, because I hate the cables and there always in the way. There are some new pole holders on board, and both the front and rear navigation lights are new. The front and rear decks were Fiberglass gel coated and fibers glassed at stress points and are designed to outlast you. They will easily take a lb man or woman.

While on the subject of the decks; my biggest problem when restoring a Tracker is getting the decks off. I will tell you now there are no hidden bolts on the Hydra. The front and rear deck will come off in a matter of minutes, as was my design. Come on Bass Tracker! Stop screwing the decks down then carpeting over them. There will never be a stainless bolt or screw in standing water. There are no bolts or screws on the floor; I only use aluminum rivets so you can drill them out and get the floor up easily, no more dissolved screws with stripped heads for any of her owners to worry about.

If you have ever tried to get one of these floors up from the factory, or after Jim Bob got through with it, than you will thank me. Over the floor is an industrial strength rubber mat cut to fit exactly with a little rubber adhesive to keep it tacked down. The decks tops and bottoms have been designed to drain well. In fact the biggest challenge that I have seen and the biggest problem can come from the boats lack of an ability to drain.

Let me brag on my boats, they are designed to drain, however all boats on trailers need to have the front of the boat higher than the rear of the boat during storage.

All Tracker mid floors, rot from the bottom up. Imagine a pool of water under a piece of sheet plywood under the Texas heat and couple that with old porous non tech Styrofoam that just holds the water like a sponge, and then it begins to swell with little room to escape, oooh then we get the mold.

Imagine a piece of foam the size of a cereal box that weighs ten pounds because it is alive. I have seen mold under floors and paneling that has made me run for my breathing apparatus. In fact if you are at all allergic and it kicks up around an old bass boat then you may now know why.

My favorite test when buying a Tracker, is taking a 5 gallon bucket. Tilt your boat up so it will drain, now pour those five gallons along the inside of the front of the boat. Now go to the drain hole, place the bucket there and see how much water you recapture.

Did you get five gallons? Give it some time, not draining? Where did that water go? My boats pass the five gallon tests, over and over and over.

All channels for drainage are clear, and I use foam that will not hold water when submerged. The foam is required for these boats; they provide structural integrity, and keep them afloat in the event they are capsized. I solve that by drilling holes in strategic places. I have written Bass Tracker with images.

I am sure I have forgotten something, but it is time to list it. The last one I sold on ebay sold to a gentleman in Alabama at this same price, and I will say that this is a nicer boat. The trailer is sound. I replaced the wood bunks and rails and carpet, the tires are ok, they look new but in reality they need to be replaced. Most of us around here keep our boats in the lift. The spare is decent.

I replaced the boat launch strap, new tail lights, new coupler and all of it works dandy, It, has a four pin tow wire plug. You can see in one of the pictures that I have two more vintage trackers inline that need some love so this one has to go. I learned that at a Five Star Dealership I worked at for many years.

Give them their money back. Buy it, you will love it! I am in Garland Texas, come by and take a look. I have pictures of the restoration that comes with the boat on DVD and are on a zip drive, I could possibly upload them somewhere for you.

Nonetheless, you will receive the DVD. Also Included are all the instructions and manuals you will need for the sound system, fish finder, remote and trolling motor. You must pick up the boat within that 7 day time frame. You will need your own Trailer plate. You may not borrow mine. If that is not possible you should not bid on this item.

If you have questions ask now, not later. This boat is sold as is, where is. I am not a dealer, so I am not required to collect Tax or License. You will receive signed titles for the boat and the engine. Best wishes. Make Glastron Carlson. Model CVZ This Classic Carlson Bowrider is a good, sound boat, ready for fun on the water. The color is Emerald Mist. Cosmetically, she shows her age, but she has been well taken care of and kept covered and garaged.

This is a very nice, clean boat. The gelcoat is all original, has not been repainted or worked on. The only part that has been sanded and re-cleared is the deck lid. This boat would really shine up with some sanding. The first 6 years of it's life it was docked for the season, so it has some waterline pitting. We are a growing riveted site which focuses on vintage aluminum riveted boats from the past..

Riveting on Welcome to the new Feather Craft website. I have upgraded the site to utilize the latest technology available. The website has undergone several new modifications to allow for future growth If you are new to the website then check it out, I hope that it provides you with the information you are looking for If you are a regular visitor you will also find new features We have been online Since This website is not affiliated with Feather Craft Boats.

This website is a tribute to the fine aluminum boats made by the Feather Craft Boat Company between and After sanding with the orbital sander and grit sanding disc, the aluminum should be fairly dull and you should be able to get rid of the "warts" and other imperfections. Some folks will feather and buff out every scratch. I'm too lazy for that! Here is a comparison of the cleaned aluminum right and the sanded aluminum left.

After all this sanding, you may want to move to grit or even work your way toward or grit paper. I am not going to obsess about the bottom of the hull too much. The sides are where the money is for me. Now lets move on to the buffing. The one I used is a relatively cheap 7 inch size. It is a variable speed so that as we work with different compounds we can adjust the speed as needed. We also need a coarse wool bonnet.

In fact several are a good idea since they can get loaded up with compound. The good news is you can wash them out and reuse them. It is fairly abrasive, but gets out a lot of little nicks and scrapes. It also prepares the aluminum for finer polishing compounds for the mirror finish. A little dab will do you! Keep this old axiom in mind. DO NOT use too much compound as it will load up in the wool bonnet and eventually the wool will become ineffective at buffing�.

Use a little bit at a time. Now we're gettin' somewhere! The old shine is coming through. On the left is the area we just buffed as described, and the right is what we sanded earlier. After buffing about half the length of the port side, I still found areas of scratches that were objectionable.

No problem. Just sand them again, and buff as we have been. You can see in the middle and right part of the photo the area that was re-sanded. After more buffing, we are left with a nice shiny, smooth surface. The side shot above shows the progress from the aluminum brightener bottom of hull in the photo to the buffed area. Top of hull in the photo. And finally a stern shot. Yes we have swirls from the coarse wool bonnet, but those can be buffed with a fine bonnet or the Cyclo orbital buffer and micro-fiber cloth.

You can also get rid of a lot of those swirls by hand buffing. Hopefully before winter gets a real hold on NW Ohio, I will be able to finish the other half of the hull.

Then we can begin to work on adding hardware, seat, repairing the old cracked steering wheel, and getting this boat ready for boating season. For whatever reason I have gotten many�many calls about my Feather Craft Vagabond that we sold last month.

Every single call was somehow related to how to polish the aluminum for a mirror finish. While not any kind of expert, the work is time-consuming and slow-moving. The work on the Vagabond was good, but had its issues owing to the vessels rough life. All that being said, I will attempt to help others by showing in a step-by-step fashion how to polish an aluminum boat, or whatever. Choice one would obviously be to have someone else do it. However, being a cheapskate�this work will again be done by yours truly on this Alumacraft FDR.

I acknowledge that neither the Feather Craft or Alumacraft boats came polished, but rather in natural aluminum. The vessel as it was when it arrived in its new home port. But the worst was yet to come when it was rolled over.

Using a one gallon garden sprayer full of aluminum brightener, the hull was sprayed and brushed gently, then thoroughly washed with water from a garden hose. I buy mine in a one gallon jug from a local vendor who sells products to car washes. The same type of product is made under trade names such as Toon Bright, available at local marine stores.

There are others that are available from auto parts outlets. Aluminum brightners contain phosphoric acid and other goodies�so a respirator is a must! The instruction on the bottle should be adheared to as well. It can be mixed stronger as needed. So if your ship is upside-down on saw horses, as mine was, you will need to start at the gunwales and work your way up the hull to the keel.

Why is this? You must first remove all the dirt at the bottom to prevent streaking. In other words, if you start at the keel, the aluminum brightener will run down the sides of the hull while still actively cleaning and leave streaks that can be very difficult to remove after the fact.

Let the aluminum brightner do the work. You may need to make several passes at the area or the entire hull to make sure it is good and clean before moving on. After you have cleaned the area with aluminum brightner, be sure to rinse thoroughly with water to stop the acidic action. This is a must. Then move on to the next section and repeat the process along the gunwales. After the entire length of the hull has been cleaned, move up to the area above and repeat the process until the whole hull has been done.

The Alumacraft FDR has been completely cleaned with aluminum brightner on the sides. The worst is yet to come! The aluminum will initially turn a light shade of white or grey following application of the aluminum brightener, but upon washing with water should return to aluminum. Of course it will be dull or satin at this point.

When the boat was rolled over onto the saw horses, I was horrified to find the bottom coated in dirt and filth. The boat must have been left in the water over the years, as it was covered with very thick growth. A half-n-half view of the bottom of the hull. The left side shows the dirt that existed over the entire bottom of the hull.

Also if you look at the far left, you can see the streaking caused by the aluminum brightener that was washed over the keel when rinsing the right half. Those same streaks are the reason we began cleaning at the gunwales, or the bottom of the hull. This eliminates the streaks running down the entire side of the hull. After applying the aluminum brightener over the entire hull, the boat looks like new.

The inside was washed before the outside. The reason is simply that there is aluminum brightner overspray that could louse up the work on the outside leaving white spots everywhere. The inside also cleaned up very nicely. You may need to repeat the steps above multiple times to be sure the hull is devoid of all dirt and grime.

At this point you will want to inspect your hull very closely. Things you never noticed will now stand out. Not only have they drifted, but they have landed and are at the curb waiting for pickup. I have even made a list as to what I need to achieve before next boating season. Firestone 3. Also on the agenda is stripping the inside of the Thompson and getting new varnish inside her passenger area. After all this is done, work can begin on the Alumacraft.

As mentioned, I have finished a nice little TD Johnson 5hp outboard. It came to me in a strange way. A fellow walks in a local marine dealer�no this is not a joke, as there is no priest or rabbi involved�and wanted to trade this poor old thing in for a new motor. Well the owner of the marina has done some of my motor block work and knows I like old motors.

The guy calls me up and asks me to come look at it. I chuckled when he told me he just put 40 bucks in the motor for a new recoil. Clearly this guy was frustrated�really just plain ticked.

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