Aluminum Boats Electrolysis Co. Ltd,What Does Excursion Boat Mean 20,Island Boat Tours Cocoa Beach Jazz - 2021 Feature

08.01.2021, admin
Electrolysis - myboat295 boatplans
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It is currently:. Last visit was: Sun Apr 04, am. Post by Challenge � Sun Nov 25, pm. Post by Chaps � Fri Nov 30, am. Post by Krisinak � Fri Nov 30, pm. Post by Challenge � Fri Nov 30, pm. Post by Chaps � Sat Dec 01, am. Post by kmorin � Sat Dec 01, pm. Post by Krisinak � Sun Dec 02, pm. Post by kmorin � Sun Dec 02, pm. Post by Krisinak � Mon Dec 03, pm. Post by kmorin � Mon Dec 03, pm. Post by Krisinak � Thu Dec 06, pm. Post by kmorin � Fri Dec 07, am.

Post by Challenge � Fri Jan 25, pm. Post by Challenge � Sat Jan 26, pm. Post by kmorin � Sat Jan 26, pm. Post by Challenge � Mon Jan 28, am. Post by kmorin � Mon Jan 28, am. Post by Yofish � Fri Feb 01, am. Quick links. Electrolysis General boating discussion.

But the batteries are in it. Please let me know what you guys think is causing my motor getting eaten! Thanks in Advance Rick. Re: Electrolysis Post by Chaps � Fri Nov 30, am Pictures can be deceiving but it looks like your hull might have been painted with copper antifoul paint which, if that is the case, will be causing quick anode depletion on both hull and engine and corrosion on the engine since the castings on the motor are typically lower on the galvanic scale than the hull plating of the boat.

Everything is tied together on an alloy boat so the copper paint if that is what you have on there is attacking drawing electrons from the easiest available sources, anodes and engine parts. If this is the case your hull needs to be sandblasted clean, epoxied and coated with non-copper bottom paint. Replace all anodes on the hull and engine including any that are internal with aluminum anodes Navalloy or equiv. Replace that corroded plate on the engine. You mentioned that your engine anode was getting eaten up rapidly until you switched your hull anode to aluminum navalloy.

One of the weak areas I've seen on Evinrude engines is the way they mount the main engine anode. It is a poor connection scheme so the engine anodes oftentimes don't work well when they are slightly used up even though they look OK. So that issue along with a zinc anode on the hull means the stainless prop can cause a lot of damage to inadequately protected engine parts.

Here in the PacNW everyone uses conventional zinc anodes on our hulls. I've heard that in fresh water there is a special zinc required but never needed to look into it. Skypoke, the usual set-up here - weld a couple of plates to the transom on edge, sticking out the back that are big enough to bolt a set of large rudder zincs to each one.

If you plan on leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time then weld them on high enough so you can bend over the aft platform and change Aluminum Boats Offshore Ltd them without getting anything wet but your arms.

With the plates sticking out aft they are easy to scrub with a stainless brush when changing zincs and the zincs are easy to keep an eye on.

Re: Electrolysis Post by Challenge � Fri Nov 30, pm Chaps Thanks for the reply, what you are seeing in the hull photos is the Aluminum Boats Electrolysis Jsc epoxy barrier coat and ablative non-copper paint which was pressure washed. Interesting about the Evinrude motor anode issue, I will replace all the anodes this winter and make sure that they all have a good connection. Is there anyway that it might be a grounding issue? Re: Electrolysis Post by kmorin � Sat Dec 01, pm Krisinak, Challenge, Chaps, another item that has come up in my recent inspection of a really new, name builders' very costly boat is the way the 'zincs' are mounted to the hull.

Many believe- and I think they are in error? SS, even if the bolts are passivated and these did not appear to be, has a decent galvanic potential for both 'zinc' and aluminum! So it is not THE best choice for mounting: my reasoning? In the photos above- I think I see some studs protruding from an anode? This is better than some of the installations I've been seeing here.

What I've seen features the entire anode standing OFF the hull! If the plates are consumed as heavily as shown, and there are SS studs mounting the plates- I'd suggest the mount was actually galvanic to both the hull AND the anode? If you sand the mounting plate down to fresh metal, and install a new aluminum alloy anode- you might want to consider using Hot Dip galvanized bolts instead of SS- the potential is much lower, and therefore the mounting system will not be nearly as reactive as SS bolts in the same location.

I'm not sure of the metal alloy of the various bolts on the outboard leg shown? IF any are uncoated steel or SS, then it would be worth your effort to install new bolts. Galvanized threads are "bigger and deeper" to allow for the zinc coating But one thing you can do is to clean and paint the heads of any steel fasteners and get some passivization gel and clean the SS fasteners to reduce their surface reactivity. Just some observations about the photos' information and my assumptions based on those pics.

If the bottom coat is copper based??? But the mounting hardware could be contributing to the problems not reducing them? Re: Electrolysis Post by Krisinak � Sun Dec 02, pm why not mount with aluminum bolts and nuts? Re: Electrolysis Post by kmorin � Sun Dec 02, pm Krisinak, generally aluminum threads- of almost all types are unreliable. I'd say that only the most rare mechanical circumstances justify aluminum thread fasteners- my experience with them has shown them to be Fragile, at best.

IF you torque an aluminum bolt- it will elongate and tear at a point in the threads' notches, at unacceptably low torque values. Female aluminum threads- that is tapped threads into aluminum of sufficient thickness are the least fragile threads, either bolt or pipe type threads, but even those seem to be very fragile and subject to corrosion, galling and aluminum to aluminum fusion. Weld-on anodes are about the best bet IMO. Tapping with an appropriate sized tap a welded-on block of aluminum and using hot dipped galvanized cap screws is about the only mechanical fastening that isn't going to shift resistance due to metal-to-metal galvanic interaction.

Re: Electrolysis Post by Krisinak � Mon Dec 03, pm i have used some aluminum fasteners on aluminum boats since the early 90s. Re: Electrolysis Post by kmorin � Mon Dec 03, pm funny that you think hot dipped with zinc coating - the former "only material" used in anodes! Why could it be used as an anode for the last 70 years? Since the Galvanic differences are about as minimal as found between any two metals?

Been using whatever the skipper wants on my boats since the 's - "the Skipper is Always Right" being the builders' adage. But my own stuff has been hot dipped for a long time, and there's no risk in low galvanic potential metals in near proximity to one another. Unless 70 years of using Zinc as an anode was further wrong than it's current understood?

Re: Electrolysis Post by Krisinak � Thu Dec 06, pm kevin, you seem like an experienced guy. Re: Electrolysis Post by kmorin � Fri Dec 07, am yes, Krisinak, I have made more mistakes in welded aluminum boat building that the average guy since when I started building, and I have seen many fastener issues, so I "am experienced".

But overall, I've seen SS gall to itself, calk up, twist off, elongate and lose torque I'm not sparing expense in buying hot dip- I'm paying close attention to the vendor tonnes and tonnes of SS is only marginally SS!

So I'm pointing out that SS and especially aluminum fasteners are no better in overall historic performance than a hot dipped. So, while I agree there is some potential no pun intended for steel plated with zinc to be a problem if the coating fails Engine mount bolts are out in the open so they'll be seen if there's a bleed through of steel rusting, but SS won't.

In those applications, I can understand where a builder has concerns- but if a boat with these systems implied by the list of heavy equipment mounts above - isn't inspected regularly? Look at the incredible number of buyers who don't insist their boats are etched!! Mine are dull gray, uniformly clean and smooth and have no pitting. But I have been called to dozens of local boats, one to three years old from major Puget Sound builders which are flowering and have major galvanic corrosion from not only the failure to etch and remove mill scale- but from dozens of wetted SS screw, bolt and tapped locations within the build.

I conclude from what I've seen. My old zinc dipped fasteners look homely but they're still hanging on from the '70's. What else could I conclude? Re: Electrolysis Post by Challenge � Fri Jan 25, pm So it turns out that my mystery problem is just lower motor mounts. The motors catch salt behind the motor mounts and actually pop a hole in the mount cover. Now I'm thinking about upgrading to a hp since Envinrude is currently offering a 10 year warranty!

No Electrolysis!!!! I have a Honda 90 on my , no t-top and I top out at 36mph. I have been thinking of upgrading to a new or Mercury Pro XS. I have the full hardtop. I hope that I've explained it. Cheers Rick. Re: Electrolysis Post by kmorin � Mon Jan 28, am Challenge, thanks for taking time to share the reply.

I'd say everyone involved is getting this repeated scenario wrong- that's my take. First the problem is coming in one location- the center of a die cast "aluminum" cover to a set of bolts on the leg's pivot column brushing engine mount but not on the transom and Second the center of these covers are 'popping' out, and Third the reports from years ago according to the posts on the links you kindly provided, show this is a manufacturing defect.

The cover is not made of marine grade aluminum.


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