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22.05.2021, adminFunny teams have taken Geese to Cove of Mexico races. thx we really most about this value subject as for meright here it is. I'll suggest we feedback to save lots of we disappointment as well as disappointment.
I would want a 16 Teraflops PS5 with more Ram. Many others are ready for that too. Yeah, I was a little disappointed with the Tflops as well. Two days ago Microsoft announced the new Xbox at 12 Tflops. Idk about needing the extra RAM though. Wanting more powerful raw system does not equal better performance. This is the best you got Sony? An you look pathetic saying that sales numbers when PlayStation have more than million consoles out there.
Should have gone with a more commercially oriented reveal, showing the console, its features in practice and some games. THEN you could go for this in-depth technical analysis of every component.
This meant nothing to the vast majority of people. I agree. This is a lame and horrible way to start the PS5 hype. Unless you missed everyone clamoring for news on it. They did this for PS4 too. Dude, I think you got into a wrong website.
So just chill dude. The marketing effort here is just horrendous. First of all, it was developer show not a fan show. Please enlighten why would this shambling PS5 be better console this gen.
PS has worse specs, no BC, worse build quality noisy, crappy controller, etc , worse online infra, no gamepass, delayed service launches like ea access, etc. The list goes on. Only thing Sony has going for it is their reputation for good exclusives, but expect XBox to respond there too.
XBox may end up winning hands down both the price Series S? Flawless victory. The majority of players will opt for the lower tier system that the PS5 beats in every category. XBox is loading up their top tier system with the expectation that they will make fewer of them and will be more expensive than the single PS5 console.
To say that there is no BC on PS4 is made up. This is just a flat Build Your Own Boat Dude Perfect Journal out lie. Win for PS5 not XBox. This is another flat out lie. First of all, once again, there has been no I formation released about this but if current gen is to be used as a metric, there is not really a difference between the two platforms when it comes to online infrastructure. This is apples to oranges. It sure does, the list of announcements for the benefits of PS5 such as native VR support, individual tailored audio experiences, instant load and patch, better cooling and power consumption, and the list is only going to grow when we get the full list in the coming days.
Sure, they may get a few at launch but then they will try to rest on their laurels and expect fans to sit around and be content. Sony is constantly seeking new partnerships and new demographics.
Either the consumer gets a better price with less performance the majority who will by the cheaper console or spend much more for a magical performance increase see my comments above. With a single console for PS5, no one has to sacrifice price for performance. Appreciate the time you took in responding. There is nothing subjective in the pure facts that I have put through. No amount of spin would work this time unfortunately. First step of solving a problem is to acknowledge it.
XSX will blow away PS5 in terms of graphics. PS5 does have a significant advantage in SSD speeds, some unique features like Tempest engine likely a basic 1st-gen implementation , VR support inbuilt or still external? It looks like PS would load crappier looking games faster. More user choice is always a good thing. We need to see how that looks.
People are asking for BC because they use it. These are the people who buy lots of games and have big libraries. They would lose the enthusiast crowd and the mindshare that comes with it. BC means you run your purchased copy locally without buying it again. PS Now is just a streaming service like Netflix with a limited library. If there is a lie that needs to be stopped repeating then its this one. They have been reluctant to use a modern cooling solution like vapor chamber for cost savings.
When it comes to controller, XBox has been much superior over the past two gens. Launch PS4 console had major auto disk ejection issues. PSN keeps the game saves hostage behind a paywall and deletes them after 6 months only. For a long time during PS4 lifecycle it only provided 1GB for online game saves, which filled up quickly. I can list more items, but you get the drift. Funnily enough if reported news is true then Sony partnered with Microsoft without taking PS into confidence.
Once the PS4 hard disk is full, the headache begins. You need to keep on deleting GB games to install a 20 GB game. Only thing we know is that they have handled Gamepass well in the past. These demonstrate the business approach of PS team. They were inclined to take anti-consumer decisions to make a quick buck in the current gen.
I like it when PS lags XBox. Whats the point of loading worse graphics faster. All recent PS systems run like jet engines. The problem has only gotten worse. PS would be smart to copy the Xbox vapor chamber. Sure, they may get a few at launch � Sony is constantly seeking new partnerships and new demographics.
Sony have lost entire genres such as arcade racing. I still like what their Japan studio does though and Kojima was a big get. But rest of their studios are making predictable stuff. Forza has already beaten GT to a pulp. Consumers like choices. XBox thinks consumer knows best. To someone already heavily invested in the PS ecosystem, they have an option to switch to a better XBox ecosystem or continue with an inferior system. If you look at the Xbox series X 10gb memory runs at gb and 6gb runs at gb so if a developer uses 12gb memory they can only run at gb not the gb while PS5 memory runs at gb personally i think both consoles will be very capable machines with great graphics and sound and if you ant to get into console wars xbox x was superior to ps4 pro but it made no difference in the end games count and the fact what the console costs.
XBox Series X makes The remaining 2. PS4 Pro vs X1X comparisons are not really valid because the pattern was already established for that gen. By the time mid-gen consoles arrived PS4 was clearly the leading system. Great video, terrible commenters. Okay it seems Xbox is back. Power is below Xbox. Hope price and lauch titles will fix this�. Depends on the specs you look at. I would also add something that most apparently missed.
On the SSD front, its speed will allow the Devs to not require duplication. What this means is that games could some in at a much smaller size overall on disc.
Duplicating data takes space in order to compensate for the slow read speeds of the HDD. With a drive as fast as the PS5 that is no longer needed. So the GB drive may prove to be more than enough for awhile. I always think Andy Dick, because of the way he talks and holds himself. Though the hair really does have a Dana Carvey vibe haha. It went into far more detail spec wise than Microsoft and even pointed out that it is a much more efficient console with its resources.
This explains why Devs are saying its a more powerful console than the Xbox even though on paper it has less flops�. Should have imade it far more clear that it was for developers mostly but surely you would have told developers all of this when you gave them the dev kits last year lol Why talk SO MUCH about audio too? And what was that nonsense about PS4 games only working on PS5 at launch? Graphics are mainly awesome because they are immersive. Audio is super important to that.
That kind of playable, whoop dee doo. You have to start somewhere. Those they are certain will work at launch. That is reading into the comment more than what was said.
You are all so wrong. How long will it take for Sony to abandon the BC thing? Just like the PS2 HD thing where 15 games released on it and then�����.
It was an all or nothing situation. Full PS4 BC at launch made so much sense and they screwed it up. Which leads me to one more thing. So what is the point in having a PSVR headset on PS5 that will play barely any of the games made for the device lol?
It was a pointless statement to make nearly a year ago and its why most of the games indusrty and fans assumed full PS4 BC was a thing on PS5. Look how long it took them to simply throw PS3 games on to PS Now that require no work done to them.
It took nearly 7 years just to clarify. Do you see my point now? First, some PS exclusives are going to PC, then an underwhelming specs, lack of better information from sony.
I have a feeling that xbox will win this generation. Same here. I would reluctantly buy one at some point for exclusives, but my primary game library would likely be on another platform.
They have no proper vision of a platform. Sony knows how to make hardware power count! When PS5 has a presentation targeted for consumers, you are likely to be very happy. Its more agile, responsive, common sense and open source friendly. ArunTahlan No, no it is not lol. And they still charge what little fanbase they have left after a dreadful console gen to play free2play games. Talk about bleeding dry the tiny hand that feeds you. Sean Murray Founder, Hello Games.
Skip to content. Like this Share this on Facebook opens in a new window Share this on Twitter opens in a new window. Share this story Share this on Facebook opens in a new window Share this on Twitter opens in a new window. Comments are closed. Newer comments. Sidone March 18, at pm PDT. Sidone The picture in the video that you obviously neglected. Jump to to see it. People are willing to pay a lot more for much better performance. Watch how 1st party games blow Microsoft out the box at PS5 is going to be the premier console next gen with the best games and�.
Ralstonizer March 18, at pm PDT. Herkfixer March 19, at am PDT. Barkfin March 21, at pm PDT. It doenst belong to Sony anymore. Jagerbomber9 March 18, at pm PDT. Catfish March 18, at pm PDT. Sethen March 18, at am PDT. Let it begin! Mtmoney07 March 18, at am PDT. Darjon March 18, at am PDT. The Price is � Maybe.
Seabanana9 March 18, at am PDT. Video says restricted booooooooo. Ps5 specs: -You can play games. We get it. I agree it feels like we are in a business conference.
Novacell March 20, at am PDT. Pro tip: K eep all your templates! You can reuse them later when you install your wall paneling and your flooring. Well, maybe not. John is the co-founder of Gnomad Home. He researches and writes the in depth guides on our site, and his goal is to make vanlife, alternative living, and dream chasing accessible to all through the democratizing power of free information.
We generate an insane amount of waste in modern society. There are all kinds of disheartening facts and statistics out there � like how the average American throws away nearly 7 pounds of trash per day. Or how 8 million tons of plastic�. Are the iconic Volkswagen Vanagons the ultimate van life vehicle?
One couple talks about their experience living full time in a VW Vanagon. And if you want to keep your laptop charged, or if you like to make super healthy smoothies for breakfast, or if you prefer to freshly grind your coffee every morning � you need an inverter.
An inverter is�. We know now�. A year ago we launched this blog, quit our jobs, and jumped full steam into our van build. Jackery portable power stations have made quite the splash. But can the Jackery Explorer stand up to life on the road? We test one to find out! I am finalizing my insulation plan for my Vanagoin Syncro. I have already applied sound deadener to all paneling. I thought that applying the silver foil might be good againt the sound deadaner then wool but it seems that after reading your digest on silver foil requiring an air gap to work effectively I am convinced of not and saving money therefore it sounds like I will apply the wool to all air cavities.
I was wondering how you treat an area like the front end therefore the area between the front and dash. There are wires and ventilation here and of course the woirkings of the wiper mechanism. I suspect that if I placed the wool in areas around the vent pipes other than the moving wiper ars than this would be good as the front leaks a substantial amount of cold.
As well loosely around the wiper mechanism should not hurt anything but I suspect that some amount of wool will find its natural resting spot in those areas. Your thoughts? James Zeff [email protected]. Hi James, you are correct about the foil insulation � it needs an air gap to work effectively, so if you have the space to spare you are generally better off using an insulation with a higher R-value.
As far as the front end goes, I would be very careful about insulating up there since as you saw there is a good chance of interfering with moving parts. Generally, you would just insulate the living quarters in the back, and perhaps use an insulating curtain in between the cab and the rear if you need to contain heat a bit more. Hope that helps! The wool insulation comes from Havelock Wool, which is an awesome company out of California.
You can check them out here. Really good article, thanks! My main worry is sweating and condensation. I intend to get a black van too too, to avoid the white commercial look. Hi Jay, the number one thing you can do to avoid moisture and condensation issues is to have good ventilation in the form of rooftop vent fans.
A good fan and a cracked window will keep the air flowing and will help prevent condensation from collecting anywhere. As far as insulation goes, there are two general ways to insulate a van. The first involves using an impermeable insulation like rigid foam board XPS, polyiso, etc. Foam insulation is cheap, easily available at big box hardware stores, and insulates well. It is also impermeable to moisture, which can prevent condensation from getting back to the metal walls in your van.
Spray foam also falls under this category, but it is much more expensive and difficult to install vs foam board. The other general way to insulate a van is to use a breathable insulation material such as Havelock Wool or Thinsulate. We are looking to insulate a Ford E-series Shuttle Bus.
Both sides are lined with windows. We want to cover most of the windows, insulating over them. In general, there are two main ways to go about this. The other general way is to use a breathable insulation material such as Havelock Wool or Thinsulate. Thanks for a thorough supply of info, soon starting on our van! Hi Nick, great question. Most people tend to pack the inside of the ribs with insulation � either spray foam or stuffing some sort of loose fill insulation in there.
We did a half-assed job of spraying foam in ours. This probably helps a bit, but obviously does not fully eliminate the thermal bridge. Still, we can mitigate them by using thermal breaks. Of course, some insulation is better than no insulation, so even without adding thermal breaks, insulation is still adding to the general comfort of your van.
Going all out with thermal breaks will help out a lot in more extreme temperatures � sweltering summer heat or freezing winter temps � but if you tend to avoid the extremes and stick to more comfortable weather, then you could get away more basic insulation. As others have said, this is a fantastic write up! Hi Eric, thanks for the comment! I would be very skeptical of using denim insulation in a van build. Despite the boric acid treatment, mold would still be a risk, and if you have wood or other organic materials right up on the denim, these could mold as well.
On the other hand, denim is very eco-friendly, available, and affordable, and works well. But if you do choose to use it, I think you would want to put up a vapor barrier between the denim and the living space, to prevent moist air from getting to it. Reflectix is a great material to use as a vapor barrier. Thank a lot for sharing this! I just wanted to ask if you need a vapour barrier at all if you use Sheep wool insulation. I was thinking of putting vapour barrier between the wool and the timber cladding.
Hi Michael, you do not need a vapor barrier with wool insulation. Wool is very breathable and also hydrophobic, so any condensation can easily evaporate out with proper ventilation. This is an excellent article. Thank you. We have a question about sticking the polyiso foam board to the van�I have a Transit van that we are converting. The upper portion of the walls curve and the foam board will likely leave air pockets between it and the walls.
If we put great stuff around the perimeter of the back of the foam board and a few lines of it in the middle are we not creating a moisture trap? Hi Gail and Jim, that is definitely the trick with properly installing an impermeable insulation material like foam board. Putting Great Stuff back there can fill the gap, and you can reinforce all of this by putting a layer of reflectix over your insulation as a vapor barrier, which will prevent moist air from getting into your insulation.
What do I use to block out the window behind a shower wall in a Ford Transit van? I want to be sure it stays in place permanently since I wont be able to get to it ever again..
Thanks Rosanne. Awesome write-up, thanks for the effort. I really wanted to make sure that was the case, and it is noted in the updated MSDS dated 6 June Hi Aaron, thanks for adding that info. Hi, Great read and very informative, I was just wondering what information you have to say that wool is an environmentally friendly choice? Hi Doug, wool is a renewable resource that is not made from fossil fuels.
Many of the options such as foam boards and spray foam on this list are made from petroleum products, and release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere during their production. Animal agriculture in general is horrid for the environment, and sheep are no exception to that.
Noted and agreed. With building materials in general, eco-friendliness is often relative. When compared to something like XPS, polyiso, or spray foam, wool has the advantage of being renewable, biodegradable, nontoxic, and a natural product.
But as you mention there are certainly emissions associated with animal agriculture. Another natural insulation material to investigate is cork. Great article but the webpage is over-monetised so the advertising distracts and detracts from the flow of the article. Hi Freeman, thanks for the feedback. While we do monetize in order to keep our content free, usability is our primary concern. Thank for sharing! QQ: how much space allowance should I make on the width? This is about 3.
Am I cray-cray?? So glad you found this helpful! Are those measurements between the frame ribs, or does that go all the way out to the sheet metal walls? If you are gungho on sleeping side to side instead of back to front, one strategy that some use is to sleep at a diagonal.
One issue I have is that I hope to use the van to chase snow, and the Express ribs are pretty awkward to work with. I read you guys left the metal exposed for a while but have since covered it up. What are you guys using as a thermal break for the exposed ribs by the door and along the top below the high top? Hi Aiguo, so glad you found this helpful! As far as thermal breaks, we wrapped the ribs below the high top with a flexible foam. The rib by the door houses a lot of our electrical wiring as well as our light dimmer and inverter switch, so we just faced it with a plywood panel.
Thank you so much for this site! Did I miss it? Hi Kimli, so glad you enjoy the site! Hi there!! Amazing article! Thanks for that! One question, please � I understand the difference between using sheep wool and spray foam, but � Is the higher R for spray form worth the risk of not installing it properly over the lower R factor for sheep wool, but that being riskless?
Hi Radek, it really depends on your needs and priorities. If your number one priority is R-value, then spray foam is tough to beat. There are good use cases for both, but it depends on what you value more. I hope that helps! Hi there, I have not heard of Reflectix breaking windows.
My question is: if I insulate only certain areas of the walls like in cavities , is that ineffective? And therefore not worth insulating at all? Will the areas not covered by insulation like where the wheels stick out defeat the purpose of insulating at all? Thanks so much!!! Hi Penina, great question! Do you plan to travel in extremely cold temperatures? Van insulation tends to be more effective at holding heat in, and can be a real game-changer in cold environments.
If you will be in hotter weather, then the biggest bang for your buck is going to be proper ventilation i. Thanks for your webpage! It is very helpful and informative for those of us who are about to embark on such a mission. I am an RN who is planning to do very short assignments. I am planning to convert either a use Sienna or Odyssey by striping it down a la Forestry Forest van in youtube , live in it and come back home to South FL from time to time.
I would spent parts of all 4 seasons up North and West as do a variety of outdoor activities such as hiking and skiing. Not only that Polyiso sucks and gulps water many times more than XPS. Polyiso may be OK in the Southern and Western non-mountainous regions in the US since dry and not so cold would be better. Not bad for a major conglomerate brand! THIS is apparently an independent testing�. Look at the R values for ALL manufacturers and how they drop�..
This is a presentation where the addition of certain chemical would make Polyiso much better at milder low temps like 40 F but no freezing. Hi Fre, thanks so much for the info!
Thanks again! Question: if you want to install sound insulation, where does it go? Under the thermal insulation right next to the body of the van? Or over the thermal insulation on top of the metal struts? Hi Robin, sound deadening materials should go directly next to the body of the van. They work by adding mass to the metal panels, which prevents them from vibrating and transmitting sound. We juste bought a Chevy Express Explorer Conversion van Basically the same as yours. This is sooo helpful.
Quick question: What did you do with the holes in the floor from the seats bolts. I can see the grass under me van. Did you cover them from the inside or the outside? Did you use Great stuff or some metal sheet? Hi Jeanne, thanks for reaching out! We actually did not cover the holes in our van.
However, if you were to cover them up I would recommend doing so Build Your Own Boat Dude Perfect Keys with a fiberglass patch kit available in most hardware stores. I have the same chevy can and am having the hardest time having it stay.
Hi Kevin, we actually sewed curtains out of a product called Insul-Shine, which is a reflective batting material. We fastened grommets around the top, and we hang them above our windows using cup hooks. Our curtains are reversible, so we can reflect heat out in hot weather and keep it inside in cold weather.
As far as keeping Reflectix up, many people use velcro, or cut it slightly oversize so they can wedge it in there.
Wow amazing! Thanks for investing your time in making this page. It reaaaaally helped. Thank you a lot!!! Love your article, possibly the most informative van insulation article on the net. This one like all. These industrial linings have super high R factors, some are paper thin and can potentially be used to insulate vans.
Definitely worth looking at. Hi Wilson, thanks for the kind words! How much insulation do they usually have already? Hi Scott, thanks for reaching out!
In truth, that all depends. In hot weather, proper ventilation i. Where insulation really matters the most is in cold weather � a well-insulated van can make a huge difference between comfortable and freezing. Thank you so much! I do have a question on the noico.
Should that be for just the flooring or the walls too? As well as should it go under or on top of the insulation? Hi Madelyn, so glad you found our site helpful! Noico and other sound deadeners need to go directly against the vehicle surface i. Putting it on both the floor and the walls would be the most beneficial. But keep in mind, you do not need to completely cover the metal surfaces � there can be sizable gaps between the Noico sheets and they will still kill the vibrations of the metal.
Hi Jamie, the metal frame in many vans is hollow, but has openings that allow you to stuff insulation inside. No amount of glue and certainly no greatstuff can guarantee a complete seal, which raises the question of moisture buildup and subsequently mildew possibility. I see very little support here for sparing kits that can leave out all doubts. Hi Mehrdad, I completely agree. To help further combat moisture penetration, some builders use a layer of reflectix or plastic sheeting outside the foam boards as a vapor barrier.
Foam boards are cheap and effective as insulation and can be good budget options, but they may open you up to other issues over time. Take a look at armaflex or K-flex with adhesive back in a roll. Not so expensive, but R value is big and it is really easy to instal. For hot weather, reflective window coverings, good ventilation, and shade both natural shade and your own shade from an awning are much more important than the amount of insulation behind your walls. I appreciate your recommendation to use the canned spray to fill all the gaps and cracks.
My wife and I love the idea of traveling around the states in a van while working remotely for a few years. We may consider spray foam insulation when we convert a van on our own. This was a great very well done article and these open comments can open up more ideas and improvements.
Now my van is just for short camping and road trips so the most R value is not my objective. When I shut my van doors with the loose polyfill it now sounds more solid and quiet like a meat locker door. The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open.
Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa.
Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?!
Plus it would take a good number of bags of this stuff. ALSO of course for the floor insulation, a free alternative is used carpet foam can be found in dumpsters behind carpet stores.
If someone asks you what you used to insulate your van, tell them you used the guts of old sofas! What could be cheaper and help save our planet and reduce our landfills and our polluting Build Your Own Boat Dude Perfect Words factories? Reuse is a main part of recycle so maybe we need to get over our mental blocks of reusing vers buying new! Hi Jim, thanks so much for commenting and for sharing these tips! I love how this method not only gets your van insulated, but also saves all of this synthetic foam from going into a landfill, where it would just take up space for hundreds of years.
I definitely will be obtaining free used sofa sear foam when I redo my boat seats that are extremely weathered and old. Take care.
Thank you for sharing this. Thanks you two! We are building out a Sprinter and wondering about using Thermacork as insulation. It is R Has anyone else asked this question? Why not ad it to your comparison? Hi Lisa, Thermacork can be an excellent insulation material and it has many benefits. We recently toured a van build that used cork insulation to great effect.
The big downsides for cork at this time, though, are cost and availability. However, we may consider adding it to this comparison in the future. Hi John, Thanks for your response and your whole website. But yes, you can walk into a hardware store now and buy cork insulation! It is all over the web too.
So this is not expensive. It is so superior to alternatives because it is extremely lightweight, waterproof, fireproof, mold proof and also easy to access, easy to use, and cheap. So just want to encourage others to take a look. And here is a chart comparing the R-values of insulation that includes cork� Cork is one of the better materials out there.
Oh, and it is harvested by real people from trees that are not cut down. So cork is also one of the most sensible materials out there. Where did you use it and how? Thank you so much!!! Hi there� wondering how to properly insulate the ceiling and therefore the entire van with the presence of a ceiling fan. Do I make sure it can be covered with an insulated section? Have found your blog so helpful, thanks for making all this information available! Hi Olive, so glad our blog has been helpful!
If your ceiling fan is already installed, you can insulate around the fan opening. We installed our fan before insulating, and insulating around the fan was a matter of cutting the insulation to shape we used polyiso foam board.
You could just cut a square of foam board insulation and wedge it up there, or they actually sell insulated vent fan covers on Amazon. Hi John, great article. Thank you for doing this. Although after your article the hard foam like Polyiso and xps sounds the best solutions for my location and budget although here everything is 5 times the price anyways�: I previously found quite a bunch of those high impact flooring puzzle mat -for free-.
To your opinion could those be a good idea as a solution for insolation, including floor, walls and sealing or not? If yes what would you use to glue them? And finally could those mat release toxic emanations under hot days? Hi Louca, thanks for commenting! As far as using it elsewhere, you would probably need to layer it in order to compete with the R-value of XPS or Polyiso.
Off-gassing is also an unknown, and comes down to the specific product that you have. But the concern here would be if there is an air gap behind the foam insulation that could potentially trap condensation, which could cause rust over time.
Thank you SO much for this guide! This was incredibly helpful. Hi Misty, we are so glad that you found this guide helpful! Thanks for the support, and best of luck with your build!
Hey guys, great informative site! I just bought a transit connect and about to start the build. The van will be primarily based in Southern California and most likely road trips during the summer months in warmer west side states. Insulating is racking my brain on the best route to go if at all? Do you recommend primarily XPS foam board for my situation?
Thanks for the help! Hi Jaclyn, thanks for commenting! In general we recommend XPS or polyiso foam board as good all-purpose insulation. You can also shade the other side of your vehicle by clipping a white or silver tarp to their rain gutter and staking the other side to the ground.
Thank you for the information! Just camping trips and long extended trips. Since I am doing the bare minimum I am still wondering if insulation will be the best solution? Shall I use it with the foil side against the van metal wall or foil in the inside facing the ply? Thanks, Zach. Hi Zach, I would personally face the foil side in towards the ply, and make sure to seal any gaps in the polyiso with canned spray foam and foil tape.
As far as insulation goes, the function of foil facing is to serve as a radiant barrier to reflect radiant heat. Cracking guide! Hi Eric, thanks for commenting! Height is typically an area where space is at a premium in a van, and rigid foam insulation offers much more R-value for the space. Just a few things to think about. Does the polyiso foil side face toward the van or toward the inside cargo area?
Hi Deb, we recommend installing the polyiso with the foil facing inwards towards the cargo area. When we did our van, we used 3M high strength 90 to stick the insulation to the van body, then filled the cracks with Great Stuff Gaps N Cracks canned spray foam. If you are using the foam as an adhesive did you coat the entire back or just do strips, stick it up then foam around it or did you foam the entire back then stick it up? Great write-up, but there is some language that bugs me related to the R-value as defined in the article.
Primarily because most insulates come in varying thicknesses. Thermal conductivity is independent of thickness. You want to find materials with the lowest thermal conductivity. Hi Chance, thanks for the honest feedback! My intention with the first iteration of this article was to present these concepts in a way that most people could understand, and since many people are already familiar with R-value and since R-value is a readily available metric for most materials , I thought it made most sense to focus on that as a way to compare materials rather than try to explain K-value.
But ultimately I want this article and our site as a whole to equip people with the information they need to make the best decisions for their rigs � which means accuracy and clarity. Your incorrect with the issue of mood and rock wool.
Hi Andrew, thanks for commenting. Insulating your vehicle is less exciting of a process, but worth the energy in your build. Leaking roofs could damage the property and cause damage to the insulation and the walls. If you choose the best coatings for your RV roof repair, you could save money in the long run. Good article � I insulated with two layers of xps and then covered with rubberized shower wall. Contact cements melts xps. Best glue I found was Gorrilla glue in the bottle to bond rubberized shower wall to xps.
Note- the thermal expansion of the shower wall is substantial where as the xps is nominal. Hi Mike, thanks for the tip! It bonds in under a minute and holds very well. Thank you so much for all of this! Can I ask how many cans of the 3M high strength 90 you ended up using? Hi Sujay, you can apply foam directly on top of sound deadener material and it will not affect the sound deadening properties. Best of luck with your build! I am in the planning stages of a cargo trailer conversion and have been researching for three months now.
You have confirmed my thinking after sifting thru all the nonsense out there. Thank you for a great site and all the great information. That would make the build sooooo easy��. Hi JD, glad the post was helpful! It would definitely be awesome if something like LizardSkin worked well, but in the absence of further testing the jury is still out. In the future, we hope to buy a cheap van shell and run tests on insulation materials and other things, so stay tuned!
An excellent overview of everything all in one place for a change that one needs to consider when insulating a van.
Then I got confused as to your chosen solution. It will certainly never be a vacuum, right! Even if we went down the route of spraying with closed-cell foam, which is becoming popular, there can be no guarantee that every nook and cranny behind the subsequent inner wall will be filled with the stuff, especially within the struts. If the chosen insulation is not hydrophobic i. But even if the chosen insulation is hydrophobic i. All of this could happen regardless of whether a vapour barrier is in place against the warm side of the insulation, because in this scenario I am including air that is already behind the insulation or finds its way in from outside which you have to admit is highly likely.
As a former house builder in the UK, interstitial condensation was always a big concern and misunderstood by many jobbing builders. So good building practice and eventually regulations would always mean leaving an air gap e..
In such cases a route would be made to allow ventilation across the surface of the insulation to avoid condensation and subsequent damp and rot. More modern building practices try to encourage the use of vapour permeable materials like in the days of traditional solid-walled buildings. Only when all skins are vapour permeable, including the outer wall, is the need for air gaps reduced. But a van is not vapour permeable.
Applying good building practices to a van would suggest insulation should not be stuck directly to the outer skin i. This is why so many people correctly insist on a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation to prevent moisture getting into the insulation in the first place.
But here I am talking about the almost inevitable air and therefore potential moisture that will get into it anyway, whether from a break in the vapour barrier or from outside.
I really would be interested in your thoughts. But that is not me. It also goes against building regulations at least in the UK that specify a vapour barrier against the warm side of the insulation and no vapour barrier against the cold side. Sorry this is very long, but I have every other aspect of building a van sorted out in my head except insulation! Some may believe I am overthinking it.
Many may not wonder what the heck I am talking about. But I know from experience that moisture can travel through paint, plasterboard, wood, insulation and concrete and wreak havoc. I have seen soggy, mouldy insulation extracted from both buildings and badly-built motorhomes!
I put it to you that if so many people in the van dwelling community can get the use of Reflectix so wrong, then it is entirely possible that no one has fully thought through the implications of condensation in the context of insulation. Thanks for the comment! No worries about the length � on the contrary, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it and I think it adds a lot of insight to the discussion here. I tend to agree with your conclusion � that the implications of moisture management, different insulation materials, and methods of installation have not been fully thought through or scientifically tested within the van community.
Our goals with the first iteration of this post were to compile useful information on the commonly used van insulation materials, and to present the different schools of thought on how best to insulate a van. Alongside this we inserted our opinions at the time, and tried to label them as such, since we have not conducted our own hands on research all of the different insulation materials.
But as you say, there is a whole lot of opinion about insulation in the van community, and not a whole lot of research and data.
I agree that foam board insulation and any impermeable insulation carries the risk of being installed incorrectly and trapping air behind it, which could cause pockets of condensation to form. This, to me, implies that breathable insulation materials and proper ventilation are ultimately the best way to go. What that means in terms of the optimal material i. But then the issue of cost comes into play. While someone could shoot for the best possible insulation scheme using the best possible materials, some of these materials cost a whole lot of money and are not accessible for the average DIY builder.
So that brings other questions to my mind � foam board may end up having some issues, but are they disqualifying? How big of a risk is there of rust developing from condensation that finds its way behind the insulation?
And how do we balance that against the relative cost of different insulation methods for the average builder that may only have a few thousand dollars to work with? I think some of these questions still need to be definitively answered. Jayme and I plan to establish a part-time home base at some point in the near future, and once we do we have a dream of buying some cheap old vans that we will use to actually test various insulation materials as well as other aspects of van building.
Thanks again for commenting! Please keep this thread going if you have more to discuss, and feel free to share any helpful resources about insulation that may help illuminate different aspects of this discussion! Due to the relatively low cost and high performance of foam board, my current thinking is to install foil-faced foam board on battens such that there is an air gap mm between the metal van wall and the cold side of the foam board.
So no vapour barrier. After all, if we accept that inside the living quarters on a cold day it is still necessary to vent out nice warm air in order to control moisture, then allowing the cooler air behind the insulation to be vented out the same way eg through a fan-assisted roof vent , is even less of a big deal. Of course, by doing this, I am accepting that water vapour will enter into the cavity and could potentially condense on the van walls on cold days, so will be planning its management through active ventilation and ensuring any drain holes in the van at the base of the wall are not covered.
Note that if I also install battens on top of the warm inner face of the foam insulation boards to leave an air gap between them and the final finish, I am also benefiting from the reflective properties of the foam board to keep radiant heat in the van.
Keeping all of the radiant heat in the van on a cold day or out on a hot day via reflection means the foam board has less work to do in trying to slow down heat transfer via conduction. You know what, there may even be a case for forgetting trying to slow down the heat transfer out of, or in to, the van via conduction using foam board insulation, and just correctly use a suitable radiant barrier eg Reflectix in conjunction with battens that allow a healthy air gap between both the radiant barrier and the metal van wall including any struts and the radiant barrier and the final finish of the inner wall eg ply lining.
Leaving out say 50mm of foam board from the structure would help where space is limited. Adding some thermal bridging material where the battens are affixed to the inner metal struts would be a good idea.
I think a test is in order using an IR camera so see what additional thermal insulation foam board makes over and above correctly installed radiant heat insulation. If you get those cheap vans first and try it out for yourself, please do let me know!
Thanks for all of the information! Hi Amy, reflective insulation needs to be exposed to air in order to have any benefit. This type of insulation works by reflecting radiant heat think of the heat radiating off of a fire , which can only be transmitted through air or a vacuum. If you cover the reflective surface with fabric, then it can no longer reflect radiant heat.
Hope that clarifies! Have you ever thought about using a Fibre glass semi rigid board? Most commonly used for commercial HVAC insulation, it is great for sound, tolerates vibration and has a high R value.
There is a local master upfiiter near my home that uses JM spin glass , since everything they use is approved by MB it seems like a good choice. Would be nice to know your thoughts. Hi Peter, thanks for reading! Thanks for the suggestion! Hi there, Really informative article! I recently saw someone put spray foam into the channels on the floor of the van and then level it off when dry so the floor is then flat and I suppose half insulated in terms of area.
I am 6ft4 and desperately seeking the best way to insulate the bottom and top of the fan without taking too much space. It seems like if I use reflectix on the floor with a 1inch gap I my as well use polyiso or something like that? Hi Adam, glad you enjoyed the article!
Reflectix is great as a reflective window covering and for adding a radiant barrier to cavities, but behind the walls and under the floor I think foam board makes much more sense. Thanks for this! Do you think there would be any benefit to something like this? I work at Eco-Building Products where I represent several product lines, including natural insulation, and we have more sheep wool customers every year who are using it for van, bus, and RV conversions.
If I am allowed to post links here, I can link to additional information. In the meantime, if someone is interested in either sheep wool insulation or thin foil-faced cotton duct wrap, feel free to ask.
Did you also look at the acoustic insulation properties of the various materials? Any thoughts? Hi Annalise, thanks for the kind words! We have not compared the acoustic properties of these materials yet, but we plan to do so when we update this article in the near future.
Unfortunately, all rigid closed cell foam materials like polyiso are very poor at sound dampening.
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