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Make a Pair of Bunk Glides for Your Boat Trailer : 4 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
Aluminum trailers for inflatable boats. How to position an inflatable boat on a trailer. Ratchet strap.� Also, as this is not a boat-specific trailer, there is a considerable amount of DIY involved before you can put your boat onto it. You will need to build bunks and secure them onto the bed of the trailer. You may also want to build a bow stop to secure the front of the boat as well.� The rule of thumb is that the tongue weight should be % of the total weight of the trailer and its load. Launching your boat. Water launching a boat off a ramp (or another suitable area) is relatively straight forward. 3. PVC DIY Kayak. I wasn�t aware of how expensive kayaks could be until our oldest recently caught the urge to purchase one. Suddenly, I realized how much money a person could invest in one. However, this kayak appears to be quite buoyant and should be quite a bit cheaper because it�s constructed from PVC pipes. How neat does it look? 4. Recumbent Pontoon Pedal Boat. Do you enjoy renting a paddle boat and heading out on the water? Then you�ll love this boat. It�s a DIY version of a paddle boat. However, it has large floats on the side which makes it a smaller version of a pontoon boat. Also, i. Boat Trailer Guide Ons and Kits are ideal for correct guiding you boat on the trailer, especially in windy conditions, guide poles come in both galvanized and aluminum, we have replacement components and guide pole kits.� We have complete kits, with Guide Poles, PVC, and mounting hardware, and we have Guide Post and pole kits that do not include the hardware, allowing for custom selection depending upon what your requests and frame dimensions are. There are also side guide sets for side assisting to get your boat straight on your trailer. The intention of these items is to aid in guiding your boat off and on the trailer. We know how tough it can be with current and wind working against you.

Trying to launch my 18' boat has always been a strain. It would be easier if my trailer had rollers, which it doesn't - it has carpeted bunks. It's all I can do to push the pound boat and motor combination, especially when I'm perched on top of the trailer tongue, trying to keep my feet dry. Then again, I have heard several people talk about the potential corrosion my boat can incur from the aluminum hull sitting on carpet, wet with salt water and wrapped around pressure treated wood.

I haven't seen any damage, but the boat is new and I'm not crazy about the idea of it happening. I looked at several different bunk glide products, but realized I would have around bucks in it by the time I was done.

There had to be a better, and cheaper, idea. One I could build instead of buy. PVC may not be quite as slippery as nylon, but while looking at a piece of 1x4" PVC trim board , it occurred to me that it would still make a good bunk glide: it is easy to work, thick enough to countersink the screw heads, and best of all, would provide little friction when I was either launching or pulling the boat out of the water.

The piece of PVC trim I bought was 18' long and the bunks on my trailer are about 7' each, so first I cut it to length. Then I cut a slight bevel on the front end of the pieces and lopped the top corner off the rear ends. I then sanded both cuts, making the rear into a rounded bullnose. I also planed and sanded down both top sides for the length of the boards so there were no sharp corners in contact with the hull of my boat.

The photo shows the trim piece after the cut but before finishing the rounding. Next, I marked where I wanted my screw holes. I don't know how fast it will wear away - not that fast, I would guess - but I'll be sure to keep an eye on the screw heads every time I launch.

I don't want them scratching my hull. Using the stainless screws, I mounted the glides to my bunks. I decided to leave the carpet intact for appearance, although it now serves no other purpose. The good thing is it doesn't touch the hull anymore. This is the trailer after the addition of the bunk glides. I am very pleased with the end result. Before, it was hard to launch the boat and equally hard to recover it. There was so much friction that I was afraid that I was going to pull the bow eye out of the hull.

Now, the boat slides easily onto the glides and I can crank the winch with one hand. I could have bought a similar thing, but I did this for much less money and very little effort. For what its worth, you can do a slick bottom coat that will make your boats hull corrosion proof AND make it slip off the bunks and debris super easy.

I know too many people with aluminum hull boats and Jon boats and never been a concern. Scratch it over time. Some boats require dropping the trailer deeper than others if you are having to push your boat off the trailer, back down the ramp a little bit more or tilt the motor down and back the boat off.

It also might be the ramp. Other ramps are much steeper. Question 1 year ago on Introduction. Hello, where were you able to find 18" lengths of the pvc. I have looked around but its quite expensive. I am considering using the plastic 1"x6" landscape bender board over the carpet. Reply 1 year ago. Works great on my 24 ft pontoon, It used to be a two hand cranking job to load my old 24 ft pontoon, now it cranks on with one hand.

Even with me standing on the front of the pontoon it was still easy for my son to crank the pontoon on. It was so easy we had to test the limit. Cost me a few more bucks for eight PVC boards plus put in eight carriage bolts per bunk counter sunk. Well see how they hold up but the initial test is great.

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Starboard is the same stuff cutting boards are made of, plus UV resistance. Thank you InTheBin for all the information about plastic decking and Aluminum-- I did not know that was an issue in Saltwater. I have bunches of it and was going to use it on my boat project. I can't thank you enough for all this information!

It's a great idea, but be careful. I'm a manufacturing engineer and work with plastics all the time. Plastic glides are great, I have used them on all my boats, including my 22' Starcraft aluminum boat.

PVC is easy to work, cheap, and strong. But it can be brittle, oxidizes badly in the sun, and is very abrasive. Watch for cracks, if it breaks the screws you used will damage your hull. Plastic or composite decking boards often have embedded minerals, which would act like fine sandpaper.

Instead of buying pre-made nylon boat glides, I go to the local shops that make Starboard or equivalent boat accessories and ask the for waste cuttings. The will usually sell them cheap, since a 3" wide strip will make your bunk slider, but is too narrow for almost anything else. Starboard is basically polyethylene, so it's slick, waterproof, and not brittle. One last note, the most common aluminum is , which will quickly turn to white powder in salt water.

But almost all aluminum boats are made from series, which is impervious, as my Starcraft can attest to. You don't need to worry about salt water in your bunks if your boat is series the Starcraft is What also kills aluminum boats is copper or brass, Diy Pvc Boat Trailer Guides Set it actively eats aluminum. Don't use brass screws or copper based anti-sieze in contact with aluminum, use stainless steel. Replace popped rivets with stainless screws or rivets.

Also old screws or nuts laying in the bilge will vibrate when running and quickly wear a hole in the soft aluminum bottom.

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. The PVC I used for the glides is made for trim on houses. I looked at it today, and it is still looking good; it may contain additives to ensure that it lasts a long time. It is still slick, too, and I can still crank the 18 foot boat'motor up with one hand. You are right about the screws, and if I see they are getting close to the hull, I will replace the whole works. I have also heard of people using PVC fence sections with good results.

I almost did that, but it is much thinner and lacks depth to countersink the screws. I have used composite materials for other things and found them to be full of all kinds of nasty stuff, like metal. It was weird to be cutting a piece of what I thought was plastic and see sparks shooting off the blade.

I bought a good quality boat, so the aluminum should be ok. Everything is welded, so no rivets or screws in the hull. Thanks again. That's what I really like about Instructables: the chance to connect with people who know what they are talking about. I see you just signed up; congratulations, welcome, and I am looking forward to your projects. Looks really good. I bet one could also use composite decking boards as well.

They have quite a few colors available and maybe use the "hidden fastener" hardware to not worry about screw heads gouging the hull? Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. That looks great and really economical. Your boat is aluminum, do you think it would work just as well on fiberglass? I think it would be worth a try.

I don't think it would hurt anything, as the PVC is probably softer than the fiberglass. They sell the nylon glides, which as far as I know can be used on glass boats, so I would think this would be ok, too. The thing is to keep an eye on them - you don't want the screws to work loose and gouge up your boat.

I'd also keep an eye on the boat. And, if you have antifouling paint on it, it will probably wear that off and make a mess of the glides, too. I guess it's the white against the charcoal carpet. I've been very pleased with them; they make the launching and recovery so much easier.

By RangerJ Follow. More by the author:. About: When I was a boy, I was amazed how my grandfather could make flotsam and jetsam into useful things. I am proud that I have inherited some of his skill. More About RangerJ �. Note: After two years, the PVC is holding up well and the screw heads are still out of the way. Did you make this project?

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