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05.04.2021, admin
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A Black Duck in a saltmarsh pothole can see danger coming from a long way. The Design. I am guessing that I discussed my ideas with my Dad later that morning, perhaps on the drive home to East Islip, or perhaps over breakfast.

My dad was always designing things right at the kitchen counter which, of course, he had designed and built. Most often he was drawing renovations to the house or custom woodwork for a customer but, not uncommonly, it was some sort of watercraft. Ted Sanford was not one to go out and buy what he needed � unless it was materials to build something he had first designed. Maybe this is part of being a duck hunter. In any event, I inherited or absorbed the same trait and can remember putting my first ideas on paper in my Junior High study halls.

I drew something small, just big enough to contain me, and without Duck Boat Gun Box Plans Jacket rigid wooden decks. I used this same approach for the coffin. Of course, thatching it with salt hay was never a question: the box and its inhabitant must be invisible to the birds. The other idea � an approach that separates this box from most other gunning coffins I have seen � is that it is built like a boat and not like a box; it is built like a hull and not like a cabinet � nor like a real coffin, for that matter.

As a result, the bottom rockers up toward the bow and so it drags and tows easily. It is also fairly stiff and lightweight. And, like any boat, it is watertight. Hull 1. I did not actually build my first gunning coffin until I had a gun and decoys but only chest waders � no boat of any kind. I firmed up the design � making certain I could get it out of a single sheet of plywood.

I laminated the headpiece out of clear red oak and Weldwood Glue. I sewed the cover out of heavy burlap and fastened it to the sides with thumbtacks � which I peened over inside.

I built it just long enough so that the soles of my boots would rest at a comfortable angle on the stern transom. As it happened, this size just fit inside my VW Rabbit, with the passenger seat folded forward.

I shot a bunch of birds out of this coffin. I entered the coffin in the Duckboat Show run by the South Shore Waterfowlers and took a blue ribbon. In fact, they created a Gunning Coffin category thereafter. Ultimately, I donated Hull 1 to the Waterfowlers as a raffle prize. I built a couple more for myself and helped friends build maybe another 10 or so.

I know that many others have been made from my plans. The New Jersey Waterfowlers and later the South Shore Waterfowlers have published one version or another of these plans, first in paper then later on the web. I have seen them around Long Island and at the Tuckerton Show. Hulls 2 and 3.

Of the newer pair I built for myself, I had to abandon one during a storm. The northwest winds were certainly well into the realm of a full gale. I remember taking a nice drake Gadwall. We had motored out with my 2-man sneakbox, towing 2 coffins. We ran into trouble on the return trip. The tide had gone off and the motor was tipped up into shallow drive, churning the sandy bottom and making precious little headway.

We labored our way up into the lee of Gilgo Island, but just barely. The second coffin � which I had built full-length to accommodate my taller gunning partners � kept capsizing whenever it caught a crosswind.

We still had to get across Reynolds Channel to get back to the trailer. So, we made Gilgo and I hauled the longer coffin onto terra firma. I tied its painter to the base of a hightide bush, flipped it over, and hoped it would be there when I could get back several days later. Well, Paul and I surfed into a memorable! I never found the stashed coffin. I hope it is still being used to fool unsuspecting fowl somewhere in Great South Bay.

The coffin I did tow home � Hull 2 � is still in use. It is now back on Long Island, in the capable hands of Ryan Chelius, who shot his first duck � a nice big Black Duck � from it in I hope these plans continue to be used by many, far and wide. Please let me know if you build one. A good quality AC grade is sufficient; no need for marine-grade here. However, I do recommend that you put the bad C Grade side out.

The measurements in the plan are approximate. Draw a center line down the length of the plywood then mark and measure the half-breadths on the bottom A and the elevations on the sides B. Get fair shapes no lumps or hollows in the curves by tacking a batten a piece of light quarter-round moulding works well along the marks then drawing the line with a pencil or fine-tip felt marker. There is plenty of stock for a longer box � just add any length to the foot of the box.

Use a jigsaw with a good sharp blade or even a circular saw set to a shallow depth. If you are building more than one box, just stack all of the plywood sheets together so they can all be sawn at the same time.

I have done as many as 5 at once. NOTE: If you do stack sheets, keep them from sliding around as they are sawn.

Two or 3 deck screws driven through scrap areas will prevent any movement. As above, these pieces should be stacked. Even with a single box, the port and starboard sides can be sawn at the same time. Use a jigsaw, circular saw or bandsaw if you have one. Mark the outside and inside of the bottom A and the sides B. Mark the sides port and starboard as well. NOTE: Steps 4 through 7 describe conventional construction techniques. Steps 8 through the Finale apply to either construction method.

Many woods will do but I like cypress, Philippine mahogany lauan or vertical-grain fir; I would avoid yellow poplar because it is so rot-prone.

If you want to get fancy, one corner can be rounded over with a router. This is most easily be done after the chine logs have been fastened to the bottom.

Work on your bench with the outside facing up and the chine logs beneath it. Titebond III or Weldwood glues are sufficient. In fact, when I built my first box, my local lumberyard had them in bins, to be purchased by the pound. They are superior to screws for plywood construction because they do not require a countersink that unnecessarily removes wood right where you need it.

And, they make for quick work. Another possibility would be a pneumatic stapler. Start fastening the chine log at the head end; leave about 1 inch overrun so the first screw, boat nail or staple does not split out the chine log. Most important: start all of the boat nails in the plywood before you start driving them into the chine log.

Start them every 3 inches for the first 30 inches and then every 4 inches thereafter. As with the first fastener, drive the final one about 2 inches before Duck Boat Gun Box Plans Up you get to the foot end.

Clamp the first nails as soon as they are driven. Let the glue cure fully usually overnight before starting the next step. This is a step that, if done right, separates the boatbuilders from the carpenters!

The cut needs to be a compound miter. Use a dovetail or Japanese pull saw. The top bevel is cut on a line parallel to the leading edge of the bottom board A. The side bevel is cut on a line parallel to the leading edge of the sides B. The purpose is to allow the bow transom E to fit in place without having to notch the corners.

NOTE: When completed, the sides lean in i. This can pull the plywood sides away from the chine log. To avoid this, the chine logs should be beveled inward before fastening the sides.

With the bottom board clamped to your bench and the chines hanging out in space, it is easy to plane the bevel. Start from 48 inches back from the bow and work forward. Plane a bevel inward to about 3 degrees. This increases to 6 degrees at 36 inches and then to 9 degrees at 24 inches. The bevel straightens back up to 6 degrees 12 inches back from the bow transom; at the bow it is again plumb.

Start at the head end. Work with the bottom side down but clamp the forward end down to the benchtop. Use the same glue and screws, boat nails or staples as described above. A punt gun is a type of extremely large shotgun used in the 19th and early 20th centuries for shooting large numbers of waterfowl for commercial harvesting operations and private sport.

They were too big to hold and the recoil so large that they were mounted directly on the punts a small skiff boat used for hunting, hence their name.

In the early s, the mass hunting of waterfowl to supply commercial markets with meat became a widely accepted practice. These weapons were so cumbersome that they were most often mounted on long square-ended flat-hulled boats punts. Hunters would maneuver their punts quietly into line and range of the flock using poles or oars to avoid startling them.

Generally, the gun was fixed to the punt; thus the hunter would maneuver the entire boat in order to aim the gun. The guns were sufficiently powerful, and the punts themselves sufficiently small, that firing the gun often propelled the punt backward several inches or more. To increase efficiency even further, punt hunters would often work in groups of boats. It was not unusual for such a band of hunters to acquire as many as birds in a single day.

Because of the custom nature of these weapons and the lack of support by the weapons industry, they were often rather crude in design.





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