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When you begin to apply finishes, all the visibility of any surface imperfections will increase exponentially. This is where you need to make sure that you have sanded enough. It won't hurt to sand a bit more. For good finish adhesion and penetration, your wood must be dry and dust free. Wipe down your work surface with a tack cloth or cheesecloth soaked in a mild solvent like Interlux Brushing Liquid , and let dry.
Temperature and humidity can be a real problem. If at all possible try to do your finish work between 65 and 75 degrees and less than percent humidity. Some products require different environmental conditions so be sure to read the label.
Use foam brushes and throw them away! Foam brushes are very inexpensive. It is my opinion that they produce a better result than bristle. They seem to load and flow better, and leave fewer brush marks in varnish. There are some foam brushes, however, that have a light density.
Avoid these. High density foam brushes are only pennies more, and are available at any hardware store. The difference here is dramatic. Do not try to re-use these brushes for more than one coat. They are not meant to be cleaned. These are probably the easiest finishes to apply.
Prior to sanding, wash the teak with any commercial teak detergent. Simply wet the surface, apply the cleaning solution, scrub lightly, and completely rinse off and let dry. Sometimes this alone may do the job you are looking for, and after sanding you may opt for a natural no oil finish. Just make sure that you keep the teak clean.
After cleaning, sand as stated above, stopping with grit. Apply the oil in an even manner with the grain. Let completely dry. Now sand with grit, and remove all dust.
Apply another coat and let dry. A third coat at this time is not necessary, but it will add another layer of protection and add to the appearance. Varnish is a finish where extra work will pay off in spades. Make sure that your wood is well sanded, clean, and dust free as stated above. The first thing that must be done is to prime or seal the wood. In a separate container, thin your varnish 1-to-1 with paint thinner or turpentine.
Since you will be using this mixture for two coats, it makes sense to make a batch that will be enough for both coats. Using your foam brush, apply an even coat with the grain and let dry completely. Next, lightly sand with grit paper until any gloss is gone. Apply the second coat in the same manner, and after dry sand again. From this point on, use your varnish at full strength.
This is where you begin to build surface protection and a finish that will be the envy of the marina. You must work fast, especially in hot weather, as it is very important to keep a wet edge. With a light hand, apply the varnish with the grain. Too much working, and too heavy of a hand will produce air bubbles in the coat.
Although these can be sanded out, it will just add to the coats you need. After this coat, and the subsequent four coats, use grit sandpaper to rough up the surface.
When these coats are complete, do at least two more coats, sanding in between with bronze wool. Do not use steel wool, as it will leave particles behind that will rust.
At this point it is up to you how many more coats you will apply. More varnish equals more gloss and environmental protection, and a deep wet look. Generally speaking, coats will produce the best results. Make sure that after sanding all dust has been removed with a tack cloth. There are some that like to use a stain for the first coat. This is purely an aesthetic choice.
If you choose to use a stain, you will only need to use one coat of the percent thinned varnish. To varnish teak, use the technique above with the extra step of removing the natural oil on the surface of the teak. Not doing so will not allow complete adhesion of the varnish. This is simply done by sanding and lightly scrubbing the surface with a solvent.
Sand with grit, scrub with the solvent, let dry and repeat. Then use the steps outlined above for varnishing. This is a clear product that should be used over a stain for aesthetic reasons. It is the most labor intensive, but will last the longest. One area where its durability may be desired is the mounting chocks for the cooler seat.
Because of the different directions from different manufacturers, anything but a basic application description would be out of place here. Simply put, after applying a stain, and sanding with grit sandpaper, mix the product according to directions, and apply. In most cases, up to three coats can be applied without sanding in between if they are applied before the previous coats have been allowed to cure. Generally speaking only coats are required. As with anything, you will get what you put into the finishing of the wood on your Boston Whaler.
With a little effort up front, you will save yourself many headaches later. What I have tried to outline are some simple steps that I hope will make your project go a little easier and produce good results. As I said earlier, I am not stating that my way is the only way. There are as many ideas and techniques on this subject as there are boaters; all with merit. You may even find tricks and methods that work better for you.
If you have a comment or question about this article, please post it to this message thread in the Whaler Forum. We do our best! Unauthorized reproduction prohibited! Get the mixture right � it takes a bit of practice � and your brush will glide effortlessly, delivering a uniform layer to your surface where then all it has to do is level off.
Work fast and try not to go back over previous strokes � the varnish will already be thicker. In short; get it on quick and leave it alone. This is the next most important stage. Even the finest brushes will leave brush strokes, but they will level off if conditions are right. So what the varnish needs is time to dry slowly so the brush strokes disappear.
Time and again I see people varnishing on a hot sunny day. Choose a perfectly still and overcast day � temperature 0 C. If you want to get technical � relative humidity as near to 60 per cent as possible. By perfectly still, I mean smoke off your roll-up rising vertically.
Wet varnish is a dust magnet; the slightest breeze will exacerbate the problem. Try to apply a coat a day. If you leave it two weeks the varnish cures fully and a new chain has to start.
Cut the dust nibs with grit and tack rag between coats. Lubricate well with soapy water. Wash the dust off and tack rag.
When you return the next morning it should be like looking into a glass of real ale. Packed with stunning images, we have the inside stories of the great classic yachts and motorboats afloat today, as well as fascinating tales from yesteryear and the latest from the wooden boat building scene around the world. Our boating magazines Contact Us. Sign in. Forgot your password?
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