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After it's dry to the touch, sand it down with and apply the next coat. When that is dry, sand it again and reapply. No need to over sand, a quick scuff to make it smooth is all. Keep reappling untill you get the build up want. The first paddle in these pictures is the one you watched me make. The feather paddle is my second. After using the first paddle a few times, I decided I wanted the shaft about 2" shorter and blade shorter and wider.
I used the same technics gluing up the blade for the feather, but had a lot more, smaller pieces to glue up. The next one, with the wood burning on it, is made similarly, its a double bladed kayak paddle. The shaft is a old stairway hand rail, and blades are a kitchen drawer I disassembled, 9 ply maple plywood, very dense and hard. I did not use fiberglass on the kayak paddle, its used and abused the most of my 3 paddles and is holding up great Let your imagination run wild making your paddle and have fun with it.
A link for that build is here.. By cherokeerunning Follow. More by the author:. About: I believe in staying productive, I try to always have some projects ongoing, I either build or repair something everyday.
My little hobby shop is mostly wood working, but I can do some metal and plastics too. Participated in the Leftovers Challenge View Contest. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! How to Bike-A-Line! Reply Upvote. TomV4 5 years ago. You have skill and a gift! Now, make some miniature paddles, drilled for cribbage scoring, and you can retire. J Reid 5 years ago. ClenseYourPallet 5 years ago. All of your paddles are beautiful!!
Great work and thanks for sharing. The feather paddle is I could not have gaps anywhere. After the glue had dried, I took it out of the clamps, and scraped off some of the squeeze-out with a chisel. The next step is to strike a centerline down the exact middle of the paddle blank. I then moved on to tracing the blade pattern onto the paddle blank. One tip that I picked up from a video that I found online from Nick Offerman well known actor who is also a well known woodworker is to drill a hole along the center line of your paddle pattern.
This makes it much easier to line it up on the center of your paddle blank, by viewing the blank centerline through those holes. The next step is to strike a center line down the SIDE of the paddle blank. A flexible ruler or flexible strip of wood will make this a bit easier.
I next went back to the bandsaw and sliced off the waste pieces of each Make A Canoe Paddle 600g side of the blade. This takes off almost a full half inch of stock from either side of the blade, which makes later shaping much easier.
Some people leave a raised spine on the center of their paddle blades, which would NOT work with this method. I've always made my blades to be more flat, and it works for me. I then moved to the smaller bandsaw and just knocked off some of the corners from the shaft, and notched out a bit of the hand grip below the grip end of the paddle.
The rest of my paddle shaping involves a lot of handwork. I primarily use the block plane from now on. I also use my small stationary belt sander a lot. Some people use spokeshaves for some of this shaping.
It's a good workout -- I actually started developing a blister on one of my fingers! There is a lot of checking and re-checking. If I see a high spot, I scribble on it with a pencil and that helps guide the planing. Because this is a laminated paddle, you can end up with wood grain that goes in opposing directions in adjancent laminations. This can lead to incidents of tearout. When I made a paddle using ash I found it very prone to tearout. This time I found that the maple and cherry planed very nicely.
The teak and padauk strips are much narrower, so not as big an impact there. But a good sharp blade in your handplane is very helpful! I have only included a few photos. But this is a fairly lengthy process. You can only plane one half of one side of the blade at a time. Then you need to reposition and reclamp the blade to plane the other half, and then the other side, and so on. You NEED to be able to see that center line often as you shape and plane the blade, to make sure that you are still straight, and to help you see how much thickness is left, and so on.
After I was satisfied with the blade, I moved on to working on the shaft. Typically I would do this entirely with the block plane. It seems strange, since this is a flat blade in the block plane However I just keep the plane moving, and I keep spinning the shaft as I work, and it quickly becomes round.
However, for this paddle I made use of a rather large round-over bit that I had recently acquired for my router.
This gave a big headstart on rounding over the edges of the shaft. I probably didn't even need to use the bandsaw to turn it into an octagon two steps back. Then I used the block plane to round the shaft, as describe previously.
This step is surprisingly quick. It only takes me about minutes to have a paddle shaft that is really quite circular. Trust your sense of touch. Slide your hands around and your fingers will tell you where there are ridges that need to be smoothed, or rough areas.
Use your eye to site along the length to see where it needs more work to be more circular. It goes quickly. For shaping of the hand grip on the end of the paddle I stand up my stationary belt sander and use that to sand the inside curves. There is a lot of swinging of the paddle left and right so you need clearance around you! I also sand the top also. There is a lot of stopping and testing to see how it feels in my hand.
This step is a tough one, because it is so subjective. After almost 10 paddles I think I'm finally starting to get acceptable results here. Practise is required!
And then I finally pull out the random-orbit sander to go over the entier paddle, trying to make it smooth as silk -- especially around the grip and the lower part of the shaft, where my hands will be when I use the paddle.
NOW I finally will finesse the edges of the paddle blade, as I no longer need to see the center line. For finishing I first drill a tiny hole in the top of the grip, and insert a small eyelet so that I can hang the paddle from the ceiling.
This allows me to finish all sides of the paddle at once. I use a spar urethane to finish my paddles. I wipe it on with a rag, as it really doesn't take much and it seems silly to get a brush wet for this and then have to clean out the brush and so on. After it dries I give it a light sanding and then repeat as many times as needed, usually four to seven light coats.
Then it was time to try it out Works great! I only took it on a short trial, but I'm looking forward to using it on my next backcountry canoe trip. Now that's Art! I like both the end result and your methodology. I did a weekend workshop where we made an otter tail paddle using only hand tools and can confirm what a workout it is. One very handy shaping tool we used was a micro plane rasp.
I inadvertently lost the centre line along one edge of the blade and my paddle now has a slight twist which I call "character". I'm a fan of the look with a spine along the blade. Do you think you could angle those bandsaw cuts to leave this? Thanks for the great explanation.
Reply 4 years ago.
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