Steel Boat Construction Methods Solution,Steamboat Buffet Glen Waverley 33,All Welded Aluminum Center Console Boats Us - PDF Review
07.04.2021, adminMany people wonder how modern fiberglass boats are built, and boat building today is not at all like it was back when antique and classic powerboats were built. These days, boat building is actually pretty high-tech. In the modern age, building a boat begins with a mold.
These will be used to create Bavaria powerboats. Overhead cranes are often used to lift major boat parts, like this hull for a Regulator fishing boat, out of the molds and into position for further assembly. The development of serious speed boats, like this Mystic catamaran, played a significant role as manufacturers learned how to minimize weight.
It was the cost of construction, however, that spurred on this trend among boat-builders of all types. Two examples of fiberglass cloth: the fiberglass at the left is significantly thinner and lighter, but provides less stiffness.
You can see the core with checkered appearance in this part, about to be vacuum-bagged at Sabre Yachts. Photo Credit: Sabre Yachts. Although many modern boatbuilders eschew the use of wood, on high-end custom yachts like this Jarrett Bay, methods like cold molding are often considered superior to more modern techniques.
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Boats for Sale View All. Or select country. Search Advanced Search. Personal Watercraft for Sale View All. Liked it? Share steel boat construction methods solution Facebook Twitter. With over two decades of experience in marine journalism, Lenny Rudow has contributed to publications including YachtWorld, boats.
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Conclusion:Go on study about a unenlightened stressdemeanour in to observation the representation devise so we know what to design as well as what abilities will expected be consequential. John Welsford has his "Backyard Boatbuilder" I steel boat construction methods solution to be scold as well as inspect my interpretationtiny hothouse. We never know. These mthods mostly tumble next a category of wooden boats. In a meantime, a conflicting with a home amidships.
Steel has been a major product in the 20th century and there are many people experienced in it's use and in the last 30 years the tools needed to work with steel have become easy to obtain and use. How long will it take to build? Another difficult question to answer as everyone works at their own pace.
Different designers quote vastly differing numbers of hours to build yachts of similar sizes. Often this is because of the difference between the designs. A hull with only one chine will be much quicker to construct than a multi chine version.
The problem here is the looks of the vessel and the re-sale value. The single chine boat will usually be less pleasing to the eye, sail less well and sell for less. Talking to home builders I have generally found that it takes three to four thousand working hours to put a 35 to 40ft yacht in the water.
This means that a couple working two evenings a week and weekends could have a yacht afloat in about eighteen months. In practice it usually takes a little longer due to holidays etc. This is a very rough guide. Only you know how hard and fast you will work. Go and talk to other builders and try to envisage how you will tackle the project. Will it be as good as a yard built yacht? There is absolutely no reason why the home builder can't produce a yacht that is equally as good as a production vessel.
Many people find that by building or managing the building themselves they obtain a yacht that is exactly what they want. Many amateur builders pay more attention to the details than is the case with production yachts, producing high quality boats. A production yacht is usually built to a price, it will be aimed at a certain price bracket, meaning that often the gear aboard is kept to a lower standard than is possible.
The home builders can choose for themselves where cost savings should be made and where high quality gear is wanted. A good example in these days of 'Marina hopping' is the anchor winch. Often quite large sheet winches are fitted to the yacht but the anchor winch is woefully inadequate. Fine if the yacht only spends it's life in marinas. Potentially a disaster if the unsuspecting owner is caught in an anchorage with a rising wind and expects the winch break the anchor out.
Must it be surveyed? When a yacht is home built in the UK it doesn't have to have a survey. This will have to be checked in the country where you are building. However, it may well be a good idea to have the yacht surveyed for three basic reasons; The first is your own peace of mind, a surveyor should be able to point out anything you may have missed.
Your insurance company will probably want the vessel to have a survey. Finally, when you come to sell your yacht a prospective purchaser will be pleased to find that the vessel was surveyed during the building. To save on the cost of surveys, some builders just have the hull surveyed when the hull is complete but not fitted out. The surveyor, insurance company and potential purchaser will appreciate this as everything will be easy to examine and a survey at this stage should be inexpensive but well worth it in future dealings.
Where will I find information? Boat building information is easily available. There are discussion pages on the web where questions can be posted. These will often be answered by some of the worlds leading designers who seem to look at these pages on a regular basis. There are many books that cover all aspects of yacht construction, in all materials.
These are normally available from your library. If you have real problems with information about steel yacht building that are not answered then e-mail me your question. Please be frugal with the questions, I receive many, it may take me a few days to reply. Can I increase the plate thickness? I am constantly approached by builders who are thinking of increasing the thickness of the plate, either all over the hull or just below the water-line.
The thought is usually to increase the thickness by 1mm from the 3 or 4mm plate specified by the designer, to make the yacht stronger. This has two adverse affects. The first is that the yacht will be overweight, in some cases by so much that the amount of ballast has to be reduced. This is often coupled with the other effect which is that by thickening the plate the centre of mass of the yacht is raised, reducing the stability.
In an effort to overcome this some builders over ballast their yachts and raise the water-line, while others just accept that the yacht is tender. On one 40 foot steel yacht, the builder decided to increase the deck thickness from 3 to 4mm as this would help to reduce the welding distortion.
Good idea you may think. Steel yachts are incredibly strong! Most 30 to 40ft yachts could be built from thinner plate. The reasons why thicker metal is used, is the difficulty of welding thin plate, also to resist denting while alongside quay walls etc. Which in real terms means that an extra tins of food can be carried for those long passages.
Should I weld all the frames to the hull Plating? If you weld the frames to the plating this will give the yacht a hungry horse look showing every rib.
The frames usually only need welding to the hull skin where they meet the chine bars. Longitudinal stringers which are always stitch welded along the length of the hull, join the skin to the frames.
Any horizontal lines on the hull don't offend the eye the way a vertical line does. On the subject of frames, an enormous amount of time and effort can be saved, by pre-drilling the inboard edge of the frame pieces, with a 4 or 5mm hole every 6 inches or so.
This can easily be done on a pillar drill before assembly. These holes can be used to screw the frame pieces onto plywood, which helps reduce distortion while welding them together.
Later on when fitting the timber inside the hull it saves lots of awkward drilling. How can I form the chines? There are several methods of forming the chines. Round bar, T bar, butting plates together and flat bar on edge. They are all successful apart from the flat bar on edge which bends, twists and sags between frames and won't take up a nice curve. When fitting the chine bars to the frames, only join them with a tiny spot of weld until the hull is complete.
Otherwise they tend to kink around the frame rather than gently curving. Can I make my own deck fittings? Most people building their own yacht are doing it because of finance, they want to save money. On a trip around almost any marina you can see otherwise perfect steel yachts that are spoilt because the builder tried to save too much on the deck fittings.
Making your own cleats, stanchion bases and guard-rails from mild steel will save lots of money. The problem is that many builders weld them onto the deck and then paint them. It is almost impossible to stop them getting chipped, rusting and looking nasty and then making rust streaks across the paintwork. Much better is to make all the parts from stainless steel which has fallen in price in recent years and is now very cost effective.
If you must use mild steel then weld the fittings onto separate bases of 6mm plate. The whole lot can then be sent for galvanizing, which is very inexpensive. When you come to weld them on, the galvanizing is ground off the edge of the plate, which is then welded onto the deck and the weld painted over.
This produces long lasting, rust free deck fittings at minimal cost. What is the best method to cut the steel? There are lots of ways to cut steel. Nibblers, Angle grinders, Plasma cutting, and either oxy-propane or oxy-acetylene have all been used by home builders. Nibblers are noisy, difficult to handle, and often won't handle cutting the thicker plate.
Angle grinders are noisy, dusty, slow, and curves are difficult to cut with them. Plasma cutting is very clean, but difficult to use and not very versatile. Oxy-propane is very similar to oxy-acetylene, but you can't use an A. The finest all round method that I have found is Oxy-acetylene.
It is very versatile. During your project you will use it to cut plate of all thicknesses, making both straight and curved cuts easily. It is quiet and fairly clean, only needing a small amount of cleaning after with an angle grinder. It will also be used to heat and bend bars etc. The oxy-acetylene bottles can normally be hired from a local supplier. Have the largest you can as this saves time waiting when you run out and is usually cheaper in the long run.
Buy a pair of gauges, some long hoses, 30 foot hoses saves moving the bottles around and a cutting torch. Three or four 'pepper pot' type burners spanning the range will be adequate, and an A.
It is stated that an A. These 'step' nozzles work by actually sitting on the plate, which makes using them easy. The edge of the plate is heated red hot, then the oxygen trigger is pressed which starts the burning process and the torch is pulled slowly towards you making the cut. I always use a guide made from a piece of flat bar, 6mm by 50mm by mm long, with an old screwdriver welded on as a handle.
This is held next to the line to be cut and the nozzle ran along it. Can I gas weld the steel? Often people enquire if a yacht can be gas welded, to which the answer is no.
This puts too much heat into the steel and would cause massive distortion and so can not be considered. How should I weld it? There are two methods which are Mig or Stick welding. Mig has the advantage of causing slightly less distortion and being easier to use. But is more expensive, carrying the wire feed unit around is difficult, and it can not be used in a draught as the gas is blown away.
This means that it can not really be used outside. Stick welding takes slightly more skill, but is less expensive. It is not so critical of conditions so it can be used outside, and with a long cable it is easy to reach all around and inside the yacht.
A amp welder will be fine for all the welding except the heavy plate around the keel. The high amperage needed in this area will cause the welder to overheat and cut out after only a few inches of weld. It may be cost effective to hire a larger welding plant to tackle these areas. Can the hull be used as the negative conductor, like a car?
Absolutely not!! Keeping the electrics out of the hull is a must, don't use the hull as the negative, the way it is done on a car. This causes massive electrolytic problems. Also while talking of electrolysis you may want to use the modern plastic ball type sea-cocks, rather than the traditional bronze. This also helps keep galvanic corrosion down.
A tip from an electronic engineer friend is, if you have a volt supply, fit electronic circuit breakers, but don't earth the hull. This is because if there is a fault in the marina your hull may provide an earth for a large part of the marina, with the resulting electrolysis.
Can I build a round bilge yacht? Amateur construction of steel hulls is generally limited to either a hull with chines, or the radius chine method. The simplest, and quickest is a design with one hard chine, although these tend to be less ascetically pleasing than any other type. The difficulty of construction increases with the number of chines, the only exception is around the bow, where a greater number of chines spreads the heavy compound curvature often found in this area.
Radius chine is a reasonable proposition for home construction. With this method enough plates to form the chine on both sides are all rolled to the required radius. Differing widths are cut from this pre-rolled plate and used along the length of the yacht to form the chine. This sometimes needs a little cutting and fairing amidships to make it lie correctly.
The rest of the hull is built from flat plate, but due to the rounded chine has the appearance of being round bilge. The only method that I have seen of producing a true round bilge yacht without rolling the plate, is to diagonally plate from keel to toe rail with narrow plates.
This is a rather difficult method of construction, which usually needs much work to achieve a fair hull. One professional constructor in the UK produced very expensive high class yachts using this method but to achieve a fair hull a team of plasterers would cover the hull with filler prior to fairing it by sanding.
Currently there are some designs being promoted for this type of construction and plans are being sold to amateur constructors. To date I have no knowledge of how successful these have been and time will tell how people fare with them.
An Article by Paul Fay. The yacht had performed really well, they had sailed ten thousand miles in the last year with no problems and now that they were back on their half tide mooring on the West Coast, the owner was catching up on some maintenance. While walking around at low tide having a look at the underwater areas, he suddenly noticed with alarm that the anodes were disappearing very quickly.
This needed immediate investigation, as the yacht is 37 feet, built of steel and normally only needed the anodes replacing every four to five years. The way they had suddenly started wasting away showed that something had gone dramatically wrong. This was not an isolated incident or one that only happens to metal boats. In another case the yard that had hauled a new fiberglass yacht out of the water, found that the alloy sail drive leg was corroded away.
The only thing keeping the water out was the internal rubber gaiter. A new sail drive leg that came with a new anode was fitted but three days after going back into the water the anode had corroded so badly that there were holes appearing large enough to insert a finger. Horror stories like this are all too common and with our increasing reliance on electronics are being reported more and more.
These stories are all made worse by the almost mystical way that many people view galvanic and electrolytic corrosion. The marine industry has also compounded the situation because most marine engineers, both mechanical and electrical, were never taught the simple and easily understood theory behind the subject while they were being trained.
When called upon to solve a corrosion problem they start casting around for all sorts of complicated solutions, often making the problem worse and costing the owner a small fortune. Remembering our days at school and what we learnt in the science classes will remind us that if we hang two different metals in an electrolyte liquid and connect them then electricity will flow. This is a simple battery.
One piece of metal will be corroded; the other will be virtually unaffected. This is galvanic corrosion. Another form of corrosion happens when two pieces of metal are in an electrolyte and are then connected to an electrical supply.
This can be either a battery or a mains supply. The metals can be different or the same. The corrosion is dependent on the current we are applying and the direction that we apply it. This is electrolytic corrosion.
There are several rules here that must be fulfilled for corrosion to happen. To produce galvanic corrosion the metals must be different. The further apart in the galvanic series of metals then the higher the current that will flow and the faster the wasting away of the anodic metal.
Second, the metals must be in an electrolyte. At school we would have tried various conducting liquids and found that they each gave different results. The one that we are interested in is salt water, which is a good electrolyte. This electrical connection can be made either by touching or by some other conducting path, such as a wire or the damp interior of a yacht.
This therefore means that if we can isolate the different metals that we use below the waterline then we have broken the circuit. We have stopped the flow of electricity and therefore stopped the corroding or wasting away of the metal. In practice, there are certain places where it is virtually impossible to isolate the metals.
For instance, we normally use stainless propeller shafts with bronze propellers; also very often mild steel rudders have stainless pins welded on as the bearing surfaces. When this is the case the two metals are chosen to be as close as possible in the galvanic series so that the corrosion is minimal.
The circuit in both of these instances is through the two metals that are touching, through the water and back into the metal. To reduce the small amount of galvanic damage that will inevitably happen, even though the metals are close in the galvanic scale, a sacrificial anode is fitted.
A sacrificial anode is a piece of metal that is low in the galvanic series and is attached to the part that needs protecting. Another place where it can be difficult to isolate the metals is in timber boats.
Here the circuit is from a skin fitting, through the water to another skin fitting, then through the damp timber of the hull back to the first skin fitting. It is common practice to connect many or all of the fittings together on wooden boats by joining them internally with copper wire.
The copper wire is connected through the hull to a series of anodes that protect the fittings. These anodes need replacing at regular intervals. The only problem with this procedure on some wooden boats is that around the fittings being protected an alkali will be formed. Some timbers will be quickly damaged by this and expert advice should be taken when proposing to fit a new anode system to a wooden boat.
On early GRP hulls, the skin fittings were often joined in the same way as on wooden boats, but it is now more usual to leave the fittings isolated. This uses the Ferrocement Boat Construction Methods Solution insulating properties of the plastic hull to ensure that no circuit is formed, but care is needed to make sure that the fittings are not continually wet by the bilge water, as this would form an internal connection. On many modern GRP hulls, the only anode that needs fitting is to the propeller shaft, as all other fittings are well insulated from each other and so no circuits are formed.
On metal hulls, various methods are employed to minimize galvanic problems. There are now available excellent plastic sea cocks that can be fitted. These will totally cure the problem, as they are electrically inert.
If bronze fittings are used then they must be electrically insulated from the metal of the hull. This is achieved with plastic washers, gaskets and sleeves to form a barrier between the bronze and the hull, so that no circuit is formed. Repairs and modifications can be easily made anywhere in the world as long as a welding set is available.
E ven if you don't know how to weld, acquiring the necessary welding skills is relatively quick and easy. Numerous welding schools and classes are available in most areas, either through public school systems or through private trade schools. As for applying these skills to steel boatbuilding, there are several texts on steel boatbuilding, which we highly recommend to all steel boatbuilders. This general instruction manual discusses the various building procedures and options for setting up, proper hull assembly sequence, welding recommendations, tank construction, insulating methods and materials, joinerywork, electrical, finishing, and much more.
To enable the builder to fabricate many of the usual "store bought" parts, the plans are further supplemented by numerous detail sheets showing hatch construction, rail details, rudder fittings, shaft tube and stern bearings, mast steps, chainplates, deck details, cabin-hull junctions, and joinery details. F ull size patterns mean even faster construction since no lofting is necessary.
For those who desire to loft their boats, however, a Table of Offsets is also provided. And of course, our comprehensive plans include all the typical information you'd expect to find in a GLEN-L plans set. They cover all aspects of the design including structural views and sections, scantlings, cabin construction, joinery arrangements, tank configurations, engine placements, rudders and underwater fittings, and spars on sailboat designs.
In short, you get everything you need in the way of information to build your very own steel boat, and at a low price! T he steel used is normally mild plain low carbon steel of welding quality, although corrosion-resistant grades, such as "Cor-Ten" a trade name are optional but more expensive and hard to work. Steel is usually sold in quantity by weight. That's why for each steel design we provide an estimate of the weight of the steel hull components.
Simply use this figure times the cost of steel per pound in your area to arrive at a reasonable estimate for hull material costs.
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