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All the while, he was building his own shop at home in Troy, Maine, and tackling a wide variety of small-boat construction and restoration projects. For over 30 years, Greg has been able to work for himself full-time, aside from a few odd jobs like setting up a wooden Whitehall factory in Mexico, custom lines taking and documentation for museums and other customers, and writing over articles for WoodenBoat , and other publications.
Also, for the past 21 years he has been producing a weekly two-hour radio program about world music which mercifully has nothing to do with boats. Working with Bruce rekindled a passion he had had for boats since his earliest years, building ships and boats from kits and reading everything he could find about ships and the sea. After a few years in D. It was here that he learned what true craftsmanship could be.
On returning to the U. While there he worked with a large custom builder doing elegant interiors on megayachts, and ran his own boatbuilding and repair shop. During his 10 years with GLBBS, he designed and taught a two-year boatbuilding course, and worked with the board to develop the school policies, budgets, marketing strategies, and everything else required to launch and sustain a successful educational nonprofit.
Pat also takes time to do marine surveys, and is one of the few on the West Coast with the knowledge to accurately appraise a wooden vessel. Rather than returning to the safety of a 9-to-5, Wade decided to follow his passion and continues to this day as a boatbuilder and boatbuilding instructor.
After 15 years of working primarily as a teacher, Wade wanted to get back to building boats and was invited to join the crew at Taylor and Snediker Boatbuilding in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, whom he considers to be the most insanely multi-talented group of boatbuilders working anywhere today.
Since then, he has been teaching boatbuilding for four weeks per year at WoodenBoat School and engaged in high-end commercial boatbuilding the rest of the year. This is the most traditional method of building a wood boat. The principle is simple, though the details are complex. The fundamental structure of a plank-on-frame vessel is defined by a keel, which is the horizontal backbone of the hull; a more vertical stem, which forms the bow; and a vertical sternpost plus, in the case of many yachts with long overhangs, a much less vertical horn timber that terminates in the transom , which forms the back of the boat.
On deep-keel vessels, especially on sailboats, there is also often what is called deadwood fastened beneath the keel. The forward section is normally inhabited by a solid casting of metal ballast, preferably lead, that is fastened to the bottom of the boat.
A full-keel plank-on-frame sailboat under construction. You can see both the deadwood and the lead ballast down low Photo courtesy of Rockport Marine. To help support the hull, lateral stringers are installed inside the frames. The skin of the hull consists of a series of planks fastened to the outside of the frames.
These planks may be laid on the frame with their edges slightly overlapping, which is known as clinker, or lapstrake, construction.
This is often done with smaller boats, but hardly ever with larger boats, as the many ridges formed where the planks overlap greatly increases wetted surface area.
Alternatively, planks can be laid on the frame edge to edge, creating a fair, smooth surface, which is known as carvel construction. Open seams on a carvel hull awaiting caulking. Note the tufts of cotton hanging out where caulking is underway Photo courtesy of Rockport Marine.
The deck of the boat, meanwhile, is supported by a series of transverse deck beams, the ends of which are fastened to lateral shelves installed along the inside of the hull at the top of the frames.
Traditionally, the deck consists of planking fastened to the deck beams with all seams, again, carefully caulked. Another common way to seal decks, often used on yachts, is to cover the planking with painted canvas. These days, however, many wood decks are simply good-quality marine plywood sealed with epoxy.
Even from this abbreviated description it should be clear this is a labor-intensive way to build a boat. Much skill is also required. Just selecting wood to build with is an art, as there Traditional Boat Building Techniques Nz are numerous criteria to meet. The best wood should be cut only in winter to minimize the retention of moisture and microorganisms. It should then be air-dried in a climate-controlled environment for as long as possible�many months at a minimum.
The lumber should also be carefully milled to produce planks and pieces with the wood grain properly aligned to carry anticipated loads in the boat. Even if you use the best fasteners silicon bronze screws and bolts are preferred, though Monel is technically superior what ultimately limits the strength of a plank-on-frame boat is not the wood it is made from, but the fasteners holding it together.
This weakness manifests itself in various ways. First, because they are made from many different pieces, and in particular because so many plank seams are permanently submerged, plank-on-frame boats are apt to leak. Many are continually taking on water when afloat, and normally the only variable is the rate at which water is coming aboard. Invariably this increases when conditions get worse. I once sailed across the North Atlantic aboard a plank-on-frame schooner�one time we almost sank; the other time we did though, fortunately, this was in a river on the other side.
Plank-on-frame boats also often have deck leaks. The problem here is that wood in the deck is constantly swelling and shrinking as it gets wet and dries out. If the deck has open seams, all this expanding and contracting is apt to create gaps somewhere. Even with painted canvas covering the seams, or with a solid plywood deck sealed in epoxy, there are again many fasteners securing hardware, each offering a potential route for water intrusion.
Other structures sprouting from the deck�deckhouses, hatches, raised gunwales, etc. World-famous small-boat cruiser Larry Pardey waters the deck of his boat, Taleisin , to keep the planks swollen tight.
Larry is a master boatwright he built Taleisin himself and maintains his boats scrupulously. Finally, plank-on-frame boats can be a bear to maintain. All that wood, above the water and below, needs to be either painted or varnished on a regular basis.
Leaks must be policed and stanched if possible. Moist areas in the structure must be sought out, constantly monitored for rot, and replaced if the rot gets out of hand. Most, however, like Moitessier, would much prefer to just go sailing. Successive planks are laid on these with about a half inch overlap. The laps are epoxy glued. Planking continues in this fashion to the gunnels. The result is a lightweight, stiff boat.
The stiffness comes from the doubling at the laps combined with the bent planks. So far, only small boats have been built using this method. A chief aesthetic advantage of this style is that it allows for more roundness Traditional Boat Building Ireland Yoga in the finished hull than Traditional Boat Building Techniques 40 other plywood methods.
A possible disadvantage is that it is more tedious than sewn seam construction. We can't conceive of building a boat in this method without epoxy coating and fiberglassing the plywood panels prior to cutting the planks.
The boat would be impossible to fiberglass once assembled. Doing it first means that except for the cut plywood edges the boat is essentially "epoxied" before it is even assembled. We'd seal these after assembly and use fillets to round them into the adjacent planks. There are several books available on glued lap construction. Check in the various boating magazines to find them. Buy a good design. As much as in stitch and glue construction, cutting and beveling the planks is critical to achieving good results.
Strip planking has been used to construct boats with lengths from eight feet prams to huge power and Traditional Boat Building In Maldives 90 sailboats. The most common strip planked boats built today are canoes in the fifteen to eighteen foot range.
Strip planking readily allows the builder to make compound curved hulls even in shorter lengths. Strip planking is simply the edge gluing of long strips over temporary mold frames. Most often these are male mold frames although some advantage is possible using female mold frames.
The strips are cut somewhat longer than the boat so that they are long enough to be bent around the curve of the mold. Larger boats use scarfed strips to achieve the proper length. Western red cedar is often used to build canoes and smaller boats. It is lightweight and attractive lending itself well to bright finished hulls.
Redwood, Alaskan yellow cedar, Sitka spruce, and fir are also used. Several companies are now marketing veneer faced end grain balsa strips. This material shows promise for boats over twenty feet. It is lighter than solid material for a given thickness. It is also weaker and much more expensive.
Because it is weaker more exotic fiberglass fabrics must be used to build strength. This further adds to the cost of using this material and adds enough additional weight to largely offset its lower density when used for smaller boats. In larger boats where lightweight is the ultimate goal and the money is there to buy it, balsa strip is worth considering.
In a way the smaller strip planked boats may be thought of as wood cored fiberglass composite boats, as the sheathing is structural. Here the strips are thin and edge contact area is low enough that the strips need the structural reinforcement of cloth on the inside as well as the outside. As boats get larger strip thickness and glue surface area increase. The overall strength coming from the glued edges begins to predominate and the structural importance of the sheathing becomes less important.
Still, most builders of large strip plank boats use a healthy layer of reinforcing material on the outside of the hull. Some large strip planked boats use a double layer of diagonal veneer planking see section on cold molding. Except for scarfing and edge gluing not much epoxy is used in strip planking until the hull is completed. One neat trick when canoe building is to use Quick Cure to glue the butt ends to the side strips when closing the "football". The outside of a strip-planked boat is faired and fiberglassed before taking the hull off a male mold.
In female molding the inside may be fiberglassed and ribs molded in place prior to demolding the hull. Since the sheathing is an important structural part of strip plank boats the designer's recommendations should be followed when selecting sheathing materials.
The term "Cold Molding" was coined to differentiate the process from hot molding. In hot molding layers of veneer are glued together under heat and pressure. Plywood is hot molded. In cold molding some pressure is used at least to keep the veneer in contact but heat is not generally used.
Boat hulls have been built using the cold molding process long before the advent of epoxy resin adhesives. The development of modern epoxy resins has made cold molding into a viable building technique for the professional one-off builder as well as the serious amateur. Cold molding is the process where strips of veneer are laid diagonally to the hull's centerline over a male mold or plug.
Three or more layers are used with each layer at ninety degrees to the one below it. The net result is a large piece of plywood in the shape of a boat hull. The length of the strips is sufficient to reach from the keel to the sheer with the thickness and width largely determined by the size of the boat.
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