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Wooden Ship Building Research Papers - myboat004 boatplans
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Shipbuilders hoisted the finished frames into place one by one, atop the keel, forming the basic skeleton of the ship. To strengthen the skeleton, a second keel, called a keelson Keelson A second keel, built over the keel, on top of the floor timbers of the frames, to strengthen the vessel's skeleton.

As additional structure was added to the ship, it Building A Wooden Pirate Ship Journal became ready for planking Planking Lengths of wood fastened to the outside of a vessel's frames forming the outside skin, and attached to the beams to form the deck. Long planks were bent length wise around the hull Not only did they have to be cut correctly to fit the hull, they had to have their edges prepared for caulking Caulk caulking, corking To drive oakum or cotton into the seams of a vessel's deck or sides, to make it watertight.

After the oakum is driven in with a caulking iron or mallet, the seam is "payed" or coated with hot pitch or other compound to prevent the oakum from rotting. When all of the deck beams were in place, ship's carpenters laid the deck planking. Another type of planking is called the ceiling Ceiling The inside planking of a ship. Despite its name, the ceiling acts as a floor to the cargo hold, and it provides additional longitudinal strength for the hull. Caulking makes the hull watertight. Oakum Oakum A caulking material made of tarred rope fibers.

Named as such as the Phillipines were a primary source for this rot-resistant natural fiber rope, the most important maritime rope material before the advent of petroleum-based fibers like nylon and polypropylene.

The fibers are usually tarred as a preservative. The caulker drove a few strands into the seam with a caulking iron Caulking iron Used to drive caulking material into the gaps between the vessel's planking. The mallet made a knocking sound that told the caulker how far the oakum was in the seam. After the seam was fully caulked, it was payed Pay payed verb To pour hot pitch into a deck or side seam after it has been caulked with oakum, in order to prevent the oakum from getting wet.

Also, to dress a Building A Wooden Viking Ship Zip mast or yard with tar, varnish, or tallow, or to cover the bottom of a vessel with a mixture of sulphur, rosin, and tallow or in modern days, an anti-fouling mixture.

Ship joiners Joiner joinery A carpenter who finishes interior woodwork. Joinery is the interior woodwork. They built and finished the deck houses, the galley Galley joinery The kitchen on board a vessel. Read more was often very elaborate and required highly-skilled joinery work.

Painters applied coatings to protect the wood. After the ship was launched, the crew became painters, for painting never ended. Sometimes a vessel had a figurehead Figurehead A carved wooden statue or figure attached to the bow under the bowsprit of a vessel.

The figurehead was mounted on the bow Bow Forward part or head of a vessel. While the hull was being built, spar Spar A round timber or metal pole used for masts, yards, booms, etc. After the Civil War, most spar timber came from the West Coast, which had a large supply of Sitka spruce and Douglas fir. After squaring and tapering the timber, spar makers shaped the spar into an eight-sided timber and finished it round. Shipbuilders used shear legs Shear legs shears A temporary structure of two or three spars raised at an angle and lashed together at the point of intersection.

Riggers Rigging The term for all ropes, wires, or chains used in ships and smaller vessels to support the masts and yards standing rigging and for hoisting, lowering, or trimming sails to the wind running rigging. Running rigging lines move through blocks and are not wormed, parceled, or served. They are wormed, parceled, and served for water-proofing. To protect it from rot, rigging was given a waterproof cover, a process called worming Worming Running a small line up a rope, following the lay of the line.

Running rigging Running rigging The part of the rigging that includes the ropes that move the rig: move yards and sails, haul them up and lower them, move masts, and hoist weights. There are many kinds of blocks. Blocks with ropes run through them form a tackle. Then the rigger set up all of the spars, preparing them to receive sails, attaching iron work and blocks, and running all of the rest of the lines.

A ship was constructed on large wooden blocks and posts called shores Shore A prop or beam used for support during vessel construction. Before launching, ship carpenters built a cradle Cradle In shipbuilding and maintenance, the structure that supports a vessel upright on land and in which a vessel can be moved. Dozens of wedges made up the cradle and were driven just before launching to transfer the weight of the ship from the blocks to the cradle.

A festive launching could attract hundreds of friends, neighbors, and curious spectators. Count the number of planks needed to fill the gap to fill in the gap between first and second planks at midships then measure the distance at each of the other frames.

These distances divided by the number of planks gives you the width of each plank at each frame. Once these widths are pencilled onto the plank the cutting of the taper can be carried out.

Make several light strokes to set the course followed by a heavier one to make the cut. Alternatively, use a Mini Plane to plane the plank to the marked line. Use a Cutting Mat or plywood board to protect the surface you are using to cut the planks. It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, although not usually , be Building A Wooden Shipping Crate Library necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks.

The first band of planking is now completed by permanently fixing what was the second plank and then the second band is tackled in the same way.

It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel. After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks. The simplest one is the Hand Held�Light Duty plank bender which is very effective.

By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced. By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced. The Heavy Duty version acts the same way but can be used to bend light metal. The Electric Plank Bender is applied to the plank after soaking it in water for approximately 10 minutes. Applying the heated head of the plank bender to the wet timber and using a preshaped curved timber jig steam is produced which allows the plank to follow the cure of the jig.

Very effective. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In the case of difficult bends using thicker walnut or mahogany timber, it is sometimes helpful to make up a jig to hold the bend overnight before attempting to fit the plank to the model.

Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible. You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet.

Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date. As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. This is your opportunity to correct any shortcomings in the work so far. As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first.

Ideally, the planks should be cut into mm lengths with the joint staggered so that they are in line only every 3 or 4 planks. An alternative to laying short lengths of planking is to lay full lengths and score the joints with a knife later.

The plywood can be painted black before the deck planks are applied and a slight gap left between them. Leave a slight gap which is later filled with heavy black sewing thread which is first pulled through rigging wax. This is done by marking with a sharp point indentations which are then touched with Indian ink. Once again, it is best to experiment first using a piece of scrap plywood and some scrap decking material before using it on the model.

From the information provided you will be aware that when the tapering of planks take place no plank should be reduced to less than half its width. Sometimes this is not sufficiently drastic and you will still be approaching the bottom of the hull at the bow end before reaching the keel midships. The diagrams below show how the problem can be solved by reducing three plank widths to two.

Conversely, perhaps at the stern when planks need to be spread out, you can turn one plank into two.

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