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Balboa Park. Tijuana 25 km. Rosarito 39 km. Ensenada km. Palm Springs km. Big Bear Lake km. Joshua Tree km. Los Angeles km. Beverly Hills km. Santa Monica km. Malibu km. Santa Barbara km. A while back I was told that matte finishes have additives put into them to reduce their sheen. Furthermore, the additives supposedly interfere with the ability to see the fine details in artwork.
I will admit right off that I had not thought about this before, so I set about testing out this idea. To watch a YouTube video on this just click on the image to the left.
Also, I created a test board, and I broke the test board up into 4 sections. Each section was labeled with the type of finish I would use on that section. Plus I left a small space between the sections that would be free of finish. I masked off all but one section on the test board. Then I applied the appropriate finish to that section following the directions on the can.
In total each section received 3 coats of finish. I cannot tell a difference between the finishes other than the sheen level. The far right section on the board is matte. This is the matte section showing the before and after finish was applied. Unfortunately the lighting was different when I took the photo with the finish applied. This is the satin section showing the before and after finish was applied. This is semi-gloss section showing the before and after finish was applied.
This is glossy section showing the before and after finish was applied. I will start the discussion with nothing, because nothing is the easiest thing to do. Lacquer offers a tough, durable finish. It can age over time, but is fairly easy to repair without sanding down the wood.
Lacquer can be sprayed or brushed on. It can be thinned down with Lacquer Thinner to the consistency you desire. It comes in satin, gloss, or high gloss. When to use : This is a great finish for musical instruments and artwork. Note that it is not good in high moisture situations like a coasters.
It flows better and dries faster. Then go to full strength. As with all sealants, use in a well ventilated area. Allow to dry a minimum of 30 minutes between coats. When applying additional coats, do not pour on and then brush out. Mod Podge is a waterbase sealer, glue, and finish. When to use : In crafting situations where you want to decoupage a photo onto the wood. To Apply: Brush on a thin coat and let dry minutes. Sand with grit sandpaper between coats.
Apply coats total. Fully cured in 4 weeks. By oil only, I am referring to products like tung oil, mineral oil, lemon oil, walnut oil, etc. These are mostly for things like cutting boards to keep the wood moisturized and to prevent water from penetrating the wood that would causing it to warp, swell, or crack this is mostly on end grain cutting boards, but you get the idea. Food grade mineral oil is what I use to treat cutting boards and trivets with. Plus it can withstand very high heat without damage.
To Apply: pour a generous amount onto the wood and rub it it. Let it sit for several hours and then apply another coat.
Continue until the wood quits absorbing the oil. Once or twice a year re-apply to keep the wood protected. Ardec � Finish and maintain cutting boards. Polycrylic provides a clear tough finish that is water resistant, so can be used for coasters.
When to use : This can be used for all indoor applications, and is a great choice for coasters. To Apply: Brush on a thin layer and let dry a minimum of 2 hours.
Sand lightly and then brush on another coat. Continue this process until you reach the number of desired coats. This is a plastic in the form of a liquid that goes on either brushed or sprayed and then dries to a solid firm coat.
There are basically two forms � water based and oil based. Oil based is slightly tougher than the water based. When to use : This finished will handle tough treatment and resist moisture better than lacquer, so it is good for furniture. Note that it adds a yellow hue to the wood that in some applications this is desirable. If the yellow hue is undesired, then use Polycrylic instead.
Lightly sand grit , apply a second coat, and let dry hours. I typically apply 3 coats to a project. It is a very safe finish; once it is dried and hardened. When to use : I have used this for woodworking jewelry boxes , but I no longer use it. Also, it can be used on items for food, but make sure it is completely cured before using the items.
I would not recommend it on cutting boards. To Apply: In a well ventilated area apply a thin layer and let dry a minimum of 45 minutes. Then brush on another coat.
Do not pour on additional layers and brush out as any pooled shellac. This is a tougher form of Polyurethane with more solids in it and is consequently more durable. It is used primarily for outdoor wood or wood that will be left around the water. Same rules apply for putting it on as the polyurethane; sanding required between coats. Can be brushed or sprayed on as preferred. When to use : If you want something for outdoor use signs, tables, etc. Make sure to purchase the type for outdoor use the picture shows the can show for indoor use.
To Apply: this works just like the polyurethane. In a very well ventilated area apply a light coat and let dry hours. Lightly sand grit , apply another coat, and let dry hours. Outdoor items need a minimum of 3 coats. Let sit for a minimum of 24 hours after last coat before placing outdoors. Tru-oil is designed to provide a protective finish to gunstocks.
There is also a version for guitars. Easy to apply, but extremely stinky in my opinion brenda here. It is a favorite for those who refinish gun stocks, but note that it imparts a yellow hue to the wood.
To Apply: Pour oil directly from bottle onto properly prepared wood surface in a well ventilated area. Spread evenly with the grain and allow to thoroughly dry. Buff lightly with 00 steel wool between coats. Repeat until desired finish is achieved. To prevent this from happening use a spray on finish.
Apply 3 layers of spray on and then you can switch back to brush on if you so desired. Make sure to use the same type of finish for both spraying and brushing on.
The below latest edition to the test panel was added on March 28th, Todd prefers to use Lacquer as this is what he uses in the shop, so has it on hand. The big difference is that you do not have to sand between coats of lacquer like you do polycrylic. Subsequent coats are full strength lacquer. Most of my pyrography art is sealed with 5 coats, but some items that get more handling like flutes receive more coats.
As mentioned before, lacquer is rather smelly so use in a well ventilated area. Another advantage is if a jar gets contaminated, only a little amount of the product is lost. The white stuff at the bottom of the lacquer thinner jar is lacquer that has settled to the bottom after I clean the brush.
Hope it answered some questions and helps you with your projects. Hi Brenda, I found the video and chat on this thread very informative. I have also found yacht varnish could be useful. Could I put mineral oil on first, then yacht varnish over the top?
Thanks in advance. A quick search on the internet says that if you use a non drying oil like mineral oil you cannot put a varnish over it. If the oil is a drying oil like tung or linseed then after the oil finish cures you can put any oil based finish over it. Thank you so much. Thanks again. Plus each person has their personal preference on finishes. For example, Todd really prefers mineral oil versus tung oil, but mostly because of the cost difference.
Where I live we recently had an intense wildfire that incinerated most of the trees and shrubs in its path. I was thinking spray, as brushing I believe will move the charcoal particles around and clog up the brush. All thoughts are welcome. Since it will be for indoor use, any finish that is suitable for wood would work.
I always love coming back to your very informative site to learn, re-learn, and ask questions. And love seeing your new projects pop up in my e-mail! I also keep directing people to your page when they ask questions in a facebook pyrography group that I belong to! I have a beautiful box elder plank with pretty red streaks in it. I want to use one portion to make a charcuterie board. Another portion I was going to have one side burned to be used as a charcuterie board and the other side unburned as a trivet.
Though now I think the burned side can be used for both purposes, based on what I read on your finishes, but would like to confirm. It sounds like you say food grade mineral oil is the oil to use, as it is not only food safe, but also protects from heat, which is great! Originally I was going to ask about using beeswax I worried about heat for that or tung oil. Any brand better than another? Is it ok if the recipient of a board uses something different still food safe later on?
Lets says I use the mineral oil, but then they use beeswax in 6 months time? Would you put the oil on all sides of a board, or just the top? Would the stickiness of the oil leave marks on a tablecloth or wood table? Does using the oil actually make the wood itself food safe because it penetrates the wood? So even if someone were to forget to recoat it once or twice a year, it would still be food safe? Hopefully it would also protect from what I read on wood-database.
I read also read on wood-databse. I can try a scrap piece, but just wondering if you or Todd have any knowledge of this when it has been sealed with oil, or gets washed in soapy water.
Sorry for just a long post and so many questions, but I really do value your great guidance! Thanks, Marlies. The finish does not make wood food safe. The finishes just seal the wood to keep it looking good and prevent it from cracking, warping, etc. Yes, wood toxicity charts are based on inhaling dust or fumes if burned. Pure tung oil and mineral oil are both good choices for resisting heat.
This is important if you plan to use it as a trivet where it will be exposed to high heat. Todd coats the board very liberally with oil on ALL sides. He repeats this until the board quits absorbing the oil, and this takes several days or more. Once done the board does not have an oily feel, but dust will stick to the board.
I do wipe them down ever so often and even give them a washing. The frequency depends on how many times I have to wash them due to oops. According to Rockler you can apply a wax over any finish. Your idea of testing it out is a good one. Hope that helps. Thanks for your quick and informative reply, as always, Brenda! And that link from Rockler is very helpful, too.
Hi Brenda, Thanks again for this helpful advice. I would never have thought to put on all those layers of oil for it to fully soak into the wood!
That part is now all done, so just waiting for it to dry a bit more before screwing on handles and wrapping up the gifts! I learn something new all the time. It looks like I cant put a response to your last reply below, but I can to my own.
Anyway, now not sure whet to do. The link you provided to Rockler said that you can put wax on oil, but not oil on wax. So if I now put on a layer of beeswax, does that mean that in months you can no longer use mineral oil on there again, but need to use wax? If so, I guess I could skip the wax � why does Todd put that on? I asked Todd his total process. Make the board, apply the oils until the board quits absorbing, wipe off excess, let dry a day or two, apply a very thin layer of wax.
This will remove both the wax and most of the oil on the surface. Let the board dry completely and then re-seal. This particular seller is a big fan of tung oil, but keep in mind they sell it so that might make them a touch biased towards that particular product. On the flip side it might be as awesome as they claim. This is extremely helpful! Thanks for this article! Would you use oil to seal a charcuterie board? I plan to put vinyl on a bamboo tray and use it as a charcuterie board.
Todd only oils boards that will be in direct contact with food. So glad that I found your blog! I have recently become more active with wood burning and am starting to sell a few pieces so want to make sure I am providing a good quality finished product.
If I have used white acrylic to fill in burned birch trees on a piece, what would be the best finish that will not yellow the white acrylic? Hi Shelly, thanks for the lovely comment. I highly recommend doing a small test board where you apply the paint you used and then coat the board with the finish of your choice. Hope that helps B. At least those that are functional rolling pins. I asked Todd and he said if was to use a finish he would use a salad bowl finish or polycrylic.
Once fully cured the manufacturers claim they are food safe, but make sure you purchase one that the label states this. What is the best thing to use to keep them cracking when being used? I would hate from them to crack when our guests get them home and use them. Hi Rose, Todd thinks that the only reason a coast would crack is if it was made out of a tree branch cut into slabs.
These type of coasters tend to look rustic and have rings. Wood cut this way is very fragile. If this is what you have purchased I would recommend applying a number of coats of polycrylic finish. Just make sure to let the coats thoroughly dry before applying the next layer. They look like the ones you could probably find at any craft store. It might be that they are just too thin.
The thinner the wood the more chances for cracking, warping, etc. Either way I would still recommend a number of coats of polycrylic, and that should help prevent problems. This was very helpful! But im still a little confused. What do you recommend? Hi Rose, I would use polycrylic. Keep in mind that depending on how the coaster are made they might crack regardless. If the coasters are made from a tree branch that was cut into slabs, they will most likely start cracking the minute they experience any sort of extreme temperature change.
I made a table top easel that i would like to decorate with some pyrography. Which finish would you recommend to resist paints such as water color, acrylic and very rarely oil based paints?
I asked Todd and he said the Polyurethane is the most durable finish. Also, Todd said that you should apply a minimum of 5 coats since this is something that will get handled.
Keep the surface as flat as possible while applying the finish. If using a spray on finish this is especially important as it is easy to spray on too much and it will run or sag. Basically, apply thin layers of finish. But more importantly, id like the paint to be easily wiped away without the wood absorbing any and covering my burns.
Polyurethane would be the best solution then. But if you do get paint on the easel surface I would recommend wiping it away before it dries. Hi Brenda, I plan to glue some laser-cut letters onto my pyrography art, rather than burning the words. Do you or your husband have a recommendation on what glue to use for this, that will also work with a lacquer spray applied to the art work once complete?
Hi Marlies, this is something that neither Todd nor I have experience with. Todd really likes the Titebond brand of wood glue and they do have a spray on type. Plus the finish will also help keep the letters adhered to the board. Hello Mam, I carve snakes onto canes and for the first time I used true color pencil for the color. Could not get it mixed properly with paints and had a problem as I needed to make sure that the heavy wood burned scales stayed black from the color, if you search for a snake called a baby blue racer you will get a picture of what I mean by black scale stand out from the color.
I am one of those that uses tru oil for my canes cause it does make a tough coat for the stick but that is when I paint them. I had over scales to do individually for color and do not want it to run or smear if I can help it. I found your site by typing in how to seal colored pencil art and found you so thought i would give it a shot. Thank you for any help you can offer Best Regards Bob Beaver. Hi Robert, Sounds like a beautiful and labor intensive project! He recommended using a can of Spray-On Outdoor Spar Urethane for at least the first coat to seal the color pencil.
After that you can use a brush on spar urethane if you prefer. Spar Urethane is a very durable finish and it comes in glossy and satin maybe others.
Just make sure to get the version for outdoor applications. I personally would recommend coloring one or two scales on a scrap piece of wood and spraying it with the spar urethane to see how it reacts with the color.
Hi Brenda, this article is fantastic. Last thing I want is ruined artwork and it to be not food safe! Thank so much for posting something so amazingly helpful!
Hi Beki, Food grade mineral oil is perfect for cutting boards because it is safe. First off the mineral oil will darken the wood a lot, and the knife will leave cut marks in the wood and the artwork. So if you did art, I would keep it very simple like silhouette style of art.
Instead you want something that is durable and can handle both hot and cold. I would use Polycrylic. Polyurethane is more durable, but it is also a lot more stinky and imparts a yellow hue to the wood. The yellow hue is extremely noticeable and gets darker with time. Thank you for your question and comment! Thanks so much Brenda! What would you do about pre bought chopping boards that will have been varnished? Or even wood from trees that could have fungus in them? Would you recommend not using them or sanding them right down to be able to burn safely on them thinking toxic fumes from treatment etc.
And maybe if its wood from outside treating them or drying them out? Thanks so much! Hi Rebecca, thank you for the comment and question. As for trees. If the tree is healthy, then it can be used. Keep in mind that it takes a LONG time for wood to dry from freshly cut trees. If the tree is fallen, it would depend on how long.
If a severe wind storm came through, knocked down a tree, and you processed that tree within a day or two it should be fine. If the tree looks like it was knocked down because it was diseased, rotten, etc.
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