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How To Sail Safely through a Storm | North Sails

Trying to just sidle up along side like you might do in a no wind condition or where wind is blowing you on to the dock is just not going to work. NOTE: Make sure that the dock lines are run outwards underneath the life lines first then back onboard over the top of the line lines. This ensures that when the line is deployed, it will be clear of the life lines. Running them inboard and over the lifelines can boat sailing close to the wind 64 a huge havoc at the wrong and crucial time.

Approach the tee head near perpendicular but at an angle so that it makes it as simple as possible for the crew member to step off the boat as far forward as possible. As you reach the tee head the crew member will have to step off the boat and onto the dock. Now comes your. Turn the wheel all the way to the stops to the non-dockside side of the boat tiller to dockside side and engage forward gear.

This creates a sideways force on the rudder and will push the stern of the boat to the dock. Adjust the throttle to over come the windage force on the boat. The crew member steps off the boat holding the aft dock line when the stern is close enough and cleats the dock line to a dock cleat that lies in a direction more boat sailing close to the wind 64 of the boat in its final resting boat sailing close to the wind 64. Turn the wheel all the way to the stops towards the dock tiller pointing away and engage forward.

This will swing the bow of the boat in towards the dock against the wind. Another crew member can toss the forward dock line to the crew member on the dock to aid. Or if the 1 st crew member is able they should take a long forward dock line with them when they stepped off the boat originally. Either of these methods can get you docked safely.

And, practiced, a day skipper could do all the above solo. Rather than a�. NauticEd offers an excellent Maneuvering a Sailboat Under Power online sailing course as well as many courses on how to sail a boat. Online, at home, in your own time multimedia theory learning integrates perfectly with on-the-water practical teaching to make you a confident and competent sailor.

Read more about NauticEd. Search for anything specific Search for:. About NauticEd Online, at home, in your own time multimedia theory learning integrates perfectly with on-the-water practical teaching to make you a confident and competent sailor.

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The combination of the two concepts into asymetrical twin-keels with a preset angle of attack is what I sought in my first monohull drawing: www. The asymmetrical foil shape was more efficient per square foot of keel area at developing the leeway reducing forces, thus the total wetted surface area could be reduced.

The 3 degree toe-in was used to avoid the vessel having to crab sideways to its intended direction in order to develop any lift at all symmetrical foils must be driven at some angle of attack in order to develop lift. The asymmetry and the pre-set angle of attack would act to significantly reduce the 6 to 12 degree leeway experienced by conventional symmetric-keeled vessels.

The combination of the foil shape and the skewed angle of attack was accomplished with very little increase in total frontal area projection over a traditional single fat-foil keel ed note: remember Charlie Morgan's Out Island 41 was just begining to capture the cruising world's attention at this time.

The two keels were attached to the hull such that as one became vertical upon heeling, the other assumed a more horizontal attitude and contributed to the righting stability of the vessel. Thus I had the shallow draft of the Out Ialand vessels with a significant better leeway capability.

And to add icing to the cake I incorporated my then new mast-aft sailing rig. The mast-aft rig's absence of a conventional mainsail imposed less leeway inducing forces so that the keel's surface areas could be reduced extra wetted surface area was always recognized as a nemesis of twin-keeled vessels.

The overall lower center of effort of this sail plan allowed for less voluminous keels less ballast required. Should we question the relatively poor contributions of the mainsail?

It is most primary in leeway inducing. Per my site, conventional booms excessively flatten the foot of the mainsail, and are often oversheeted, contributing significantly to the leeway forces. A staysail was then rigged between the masts in place of the mainsail, and the boat regained 1 knot of speed while retaining its decreased leeway.

Or as Tom Speer hints at above , for example, one can reduce the leeway to an arbitrarily small angle just by adding sufficient area to the keel. However, this will not necessarily improve performance because of the excessive wetted area. One can also reduce the leeway angle by sheeting out the sails - but that will not improve performance, either, unless the sails were over-sheeted to begin with.

BE notes: It very often the case that the foot of the mainsail is oversheeted, and is contributing very much to the leeway. The vortex is also strongly affecting the region of the mainsail where the chord is the greatest. People usually concentrate on the vortex at the top, but the vortex at the foot may be more significant.

It's worth considering how to shape the mainsail so as to reduce the strength of the vortex and to move some of the sail area away from its influence. This is to "endplate" or seal off the bottom of the boomed sails. If you can achieve this for even half of the foot length, the increase in efficiency is dramatic. We've just had seals made for Beowulf which we'll be testing in the near future, and will write up for SetSail.

The area added is down low, where it is in turbulent air flow and where the breeze is much lighter. However, the seal effect is very powerful, and if you can make it work with your rig and deck structure, will generate a huge improvement.

Note--the less efficient your keel, the more this will help as it reduces induced drag--which hit cruising keels harder than those found on racing boats. Finally I might add, that when I drew my monohull concept up, center-cockpits aft-cabin cruisers were all the rage. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. What kind of boat can sail closest to the wind? Replies: 49 Views: 16, Jakey5 Oct 31, Replies: 32 Views: 4, Tendency to broach during beat or close reach Joakim , Oct 17, , in forum: Sailboats.

Now feel the wind on your body. Use the wind ripples, telltales and masthead fly to get a rough idea of the wind direction.

Turn the boat so you are heading perpendicular to the wind beam reaching. Sail trim � Now start trimming in both the mainsail and jib so your boat accelerates. As soon as you have some speed, start heading closer and closer to the wind. Each time you head up, trim your sails in a little tighter so they stop luffing. When you reach a closehauled course about 45 degrees to the wind , your sails should be trimmed in tightly.

Where to look � The skipper should concentrate on the front part of the jib, along the luff of the sail. If you're on a boat without a jib, such as a Laser, watch the front part of the mainsail. You are looking for two things: 1 A bubble, or backwinding, along the front of the sail; and 2 Movement of the windward and leeward telltales on the sail.

Steering by the jib � I learned to sail upwind by using the front part of the jib as a guide. This is a good basic technique. With the sails trimmed in tight, keep trying to steer a little closer to the wind. When the front part of the jib just starts to backwind or luff , you are sailing as close to the wind as possible.

If you head up any farther, more of the wind will hit the back of the jib and a larger part of the sail will luff. This is called "pinching. When you want to make distance to windward, continually try to point the boat as high as possible without pinching and slowing down too much. Steering by the telltales � Another good way to know how high you can point is by watching the telltales on your jib.

These pieces of yarn are usually taped on the sail about a foot back from the headstay. Start out by sailing closehauled with the telltales on each side of the sail streaming straight back. Then head up slightly.

When the jib is about to luff, the windward telltales will start to lift up above a horizontal position. This is a good upwind heading.

If the windward telltales get more active than this and start to spin around, you are pinching too much. Telltales will also indicate when you are not sailing as high as possible. If the leeward telltales start to flutter or drop out of a horizontal position, then you are sailing too low and losing distance to windward.

In this case, head up until the leeward telltales straighten out and the windward telltales just begin to move again. Practicing � Finding the upwind groove is a matter of practice as much as anything.

You just have to spend time sailing closehauled, watching the luff of the jib and telltales, and constantly trying to head a little higher without losing speed. If you have a chance to sail upwind next to another boat, you'll get a quick and accurate idea of how efficient a job you're doing. Ultimately, if you can close your eyes and keep your boat going upwind, you'll know you really have the "feel".

Steering a boat on a closehauled course is only part of the challenge of getting to an upwind destination. You can sail closehauled all day, but if you remain on one tack, you are only zigging and not zagging. Making progress upwind requires sailing on both tacks. The act of tacking, by definition, takes you from one tack starboard or port to the other, with your bow swinging through the wind. The sails begin to luff as you push the tiller over, they flap wildly when you are head to wind, and then they fill again as you reach a closehauled course on the new tack.

Before you begin a tack, consider the following requirements:. If there is no water flowing over the rudder, the boat won't turn when you push the tiller over. So don't try to tack when you're going slowly. Instead, turn the boat away from the wind to fill the sails and pick up speed. Tack only when the boat's momentum is sufficient to carry her around through the turn.

If you begin a tack from a reaching course with the sails half way out, it can be difficult to spin the boat all the way through the wind without losing speed.

So before you tack, trim your sails in to the center of the boat and head up to a closehauled course. So before you push the tiller over, look around to make sure you have room to tack. Remember that while you are tacking, you must stay clear of other boats. Once you've got good speed on a closehauled course and have plenty of room on all sides, you are ready to tack. Here is a step-by-step procedure of everything the skipper and crew should do before and during this maneuver.

First of all, the skipper should tell the crew about upcoming tacks. Not all crews are good mind readers. I remember making an unexpected tack in one race at a recent Thistle National Championships. I had to avoid another boat and, unfortunately, didn't have time to warn my crew. When we came out of the tack, my crew was still in the hiking straps � under water on the leeward side.

The moral is if your crew is not ready, a tack can end up in disaster. To make sure everyone is ready, the skipper typically yells "Ready about? What the skipper is saying is: "I'm about to throw the helm over. Are you ready to let go of the old jib sheet, trim in the new and move to the other side? When I am racing, I modify this procedure slightly.

I tell my crew that when I say "Ready about," I'll assume they are ready to tack unless I hear an objection. This usually works, but in a less pressured situation I'd suggest waiting for a positive response. Movement is achieved by tacking. If a vessel is sailing on a starboard tack with the wind blowing from the right side and tacks, it will end up on a port tack with the wind blowing from the left side. See the accompanying image; the red arrow indicates the wind direction.

This maneuver is frequently used when the desired direction is nearly directly into the wind. The opposite maneuver, i. Tacking is sometimes confused with beating to windward , which is a process of beating a course upwind and generally implies but does not require actually coming about.

In the accompanying figure, the boat is seen to tack three times while beating to windward. When used without a modifier, the term "tacking" is always synonymous with "coming about"; however, some find it acceptable to say "tack downwind"; i.

Racers often use this maneuver because most modern sailboats especially larger boats with spinnakers and a variety of staysails sail substantially faster on a broad reach than when running "dead" downwind.

The extra speed gained by zigzagging downwind can more than make up for the extra distance that must be covered. Cruising boats also often tack downwind when the swells are also coming from dead astern i. About is defined as: "To go about is to change the course of a ship by tacking. Ready about, or boutship, is the order to prepare for tacking. Beating is the procedure by which a ship moves on a zig-zag course to make progress directly into the wind upwind.

No sailing vessel can move directly upwind though that may be the desired direction. Beating allows the vessel to advance indirectly upwind. A ship that is beating will sail as close to the wind as possible; this position is known as close hauled. In general, the closest angle to the wind that a ship can sail is usually around 35 to 45 degrees, and it depends on the exact boat, the exact sails and the exact wind strength. Most sailboats can sail at an angle closer to the wind as the wind gets stronger.

Some modern yachts can sail very near to the wind, while older ships, especially square-rigged ships, are much worse at it. Thus when a ship is tacking, it is moving both upwind and across the wind.

Crosswind movement is not desired, and may be very much undesirable, if for instance the ship is moving along a narrow channel. Therefore, the ship changes tack periodically, reversing the direction of cross-wind movement while continuing the upwind movement.

The interval between tacks depends in part on the lateral space available: in a small navigable channel, tacks may be required every few minutes, while in the open ocean days may pass between tacks, provided that the wind continues to come from the same general direction. In older vessels that could not sail close to the wind, beating could be an expensive process that required sailing a total distance several times the distance actually traveled upwind.

When beating to windward , often your desired destination although still in the no sail zone, is not aligned directly upwind - to the eye of the wind. In this case one tack becomes more favorable than the other - it angles more closely in the direction you wish to travel than the other tack does.

Then the best strategy is to stay on this favorable tack as much as possible, and shorten the time you need to sail on the unfavorable tack. This will result in a faster passage with less wasted effort. Your overall course then is not an equal zig-zag as in the diagrams above, but more of a saw tooth pattern. If while on this tack the wind shifts in your favor, called a "lift," and allows you to point up even more, so much the better, then this tack is even more favorable.

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