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06.07.2021, admin
Jaguar Yacht Owners. Having purchased your boat, you will no doubt be familiar with the thinking behind the Designer's thoughts when creating the Jaguar We do not set out in this manual to teach the owner how to sail, since we assume that he or she has prior experience.
However, we are confident that you will have many hours of pleasure with your friends and family in your new boat, and to help you use and maintain your investment, we offer the following information. The items are laid out in the order in which we feel you may deal with fitting out, having just taken delivery from the Builder, and based on our experience during many hours of trials.
LIFELINES: In the interests of personal safety before walking about on deck, either afloat or ashore, the boat should be securely chocked in a level position, Eagle 525 Sailing Boat For Sale Zip and the stanchions and lifelines should be fitted.
It may be that they are fixed when the boat is delivered or collected from the Builder. However, for general reference, the lifelines will have been threaded through the tops of the stanchions, with an eye spliced at either end. Enter the stanchions into the bases on deck in the corresponding order either side, and lock in position with the pins, bolts or screws provided.
It is best to grease the inside of the base sockets when this is done; it will help if you want to remove them at the end of a hard season, which could be difficult due to dirt and salt corrosion. Attach the forward ends of the lifelines to the pulpit with the rigging links provided. Attach the aft ends of the lifelines to the pushpit with the lanyards provided, reeving and threading all of the lanyard, leaving enough only to tie off and secure the lashing.
To prevent the lashing coming undone, it can be bound with self- adhesive tape. The forward attachment to the pulpit should also be taped. The tension on the lifelines should be moderate. After a certain amount of initial use the lines will stretch and slacken, and this should be taken up and made off as already described. Dress the mast, which means arranging the rigging so it is ready to hand when the mast is stood up on deck.
Place the wire rigging down the correct Port or Starboard side, together with flag halliard, which can be made off on the small plastic cleat provided. Pull both ends of the foresail and main halliards to the bottom of the mast on their respective fore or aft sides. Before doing this, it is important to 'tie a 'figure of eight' knot in the bottom of the rope tails of these halliards, to prevent losing the ends inside the mast.
Attach the spreaders to the stainless roots, which are about half way up the spar, and secure in their swept back and slightly up position with the locking bolts provided.
Pull the main cap shrouds down and place in the small notch at the outer end of each spreader. Fix the shroud to the spreader with soft galvanised or stainless steel seizing wire, using the small hole provided, also at the end of the spreader.
To prevent the possibility of the sails catching on any sharp end of the seizing wire, we recommend you tape over the end of the spreader and the shroud, but when doing this make sure the spreader is pushed fully in an up position, and. This allows for the rigging to stretch without distortion to the spreader roots, when the full load is taken on the mast when under way. If you have fitted a spinnaker halliard and spi.
These eyes are to maintain a fair rope lead to the sheaves when the halliard and lift is being used. Attach the larger rigging screws or bottle screws to the main cap shrouds, and the smaller to the lower shrouds. Make sure that the bottle screws are fully extended with a minimum 5 full threads at each end entered into the barrel.
Tie off the rigging in order to the bottom of the mast. A light string or masking tape can be used. Don't tie off any further along the mast from the bottom than you can reach when the mast is stood up on deck. Finally, check everything again for the full length of the mast, and make sure that all shackles that will be aloft are tightened with pliers, and that all split pins are entered and properly turned.
Place the mast along the centreline of the ship, with the top hanging over the transom, and the bottom adjacent to the mast step, aft side down.
Fix foot of mast to step with the pivot pin, and make sure to secure with split pins either side. Attach the lower shrouds with bottle screws to the eye bolts on the cabin roof, having separated them from the other wires, and the mast should be ready to erect. Ideally it is best to stand the mast up with three people, pushing up from the cockpit hand over hand with two until the mast is upright.
Then the third person can separate the forestay, which is of fixed length, and attach it to the eye bolt on the foredeck with a shackle while the other two hold the mast vertical. Having already fixed the lowers to the deck, this will help support the mast athwartships as it goes up. Again, separate from the mast, and fix the main cap shrouds to the eye bolts in the side decks, which then make the mast safe.
When the mast has been safely stepped, and to ensure it is straight before the sails can be set, the following adjustments must be carried out in the following order Also, great care should be taken with the final adjustment, since these particular shrouds will control the straightness of the mast athwartships, so sighting up the aft side of the mast when final tensioning is made, is essential. Tie off the bottom of the backstay to the top of the bridle, with the lanyard provided.
The tension applied should be such as to bend the top of the mast slightly aft. This must be done in the interests of safety, due to wind vibration on mast and rigging, even when the boat is moored and not in use. The rigging should be tightened up in the same manner as described in items i to vi , and following Yarmouth 23 Sailing Boat Zip the same order. Failure to make these adjustments affects the performance of the boat whilst sailing, and causes undue wear and tear.
It is a good idea to apply a little oil or light grease, making the fitting run easily. The boom can be held horizontal by using the main halliard as a topping lift, attaching it to the aft end of the boom with the snap shackle, and cleating off the rope tail to the mast cleat. However, during many hours of cruising and trials before the production of the J. With the standard sails set, i. Mainsail and working Jib, a very good all round performance is achieved in wind strengths up to force 4- 5, above this taking a reef as required in the Mainsail.
Even with the shortened sail area, the boat behaves very well in the heavier weather without interfering with her balance. In moderate to heavy winds she will handle well under Jib alone. If you have bought a Genoa as an extra with the boat, you will find this will improve even further the light weather performance.
In fact, with a fairly heavy crew of three, she sailed very fast with the Genoa set in wind forces up 5 during racing, with a good result. The spinnaker is quite generous in area, and makes for good speed down wind especially for racing. Spinnakers can be very exhilarating to fly if handled properly, by a competent crew, so we would recommend any owner without such knowledge to seek advice, or better still have one or two practice sessions with an experienced person before attempting to set a sail of this kind.
Attach the tack end of the sail with a shackle. Reeve the outhaul with a 'figure of eight' knot at the aft end of boom, passing through the sail round the cheek block on the side of the boom into the clam cleat further along the boom, and take up the slack.
Insert sail battens into their respective pockets in the sail, i. Follow the luff of the sail through from the bottom to the top, to remove any folds or twists and insert the head board into the luff groove entry.
The main halliard can be attached to the sail with snap shackle, and the sail is ready to hoist. Make sure to uncleat or slacken the mainsheet and kicking strap before doing so.
Except when reefed, the mainsail should be hoisted as high as possible - a last tug on the halliard before 'dealing off will enable you to feel the plastic ball stop reaching its highest point.
The surplus rope halliard tail can be coiled away at the foot of the mast. To tighten the kicking strap, apply a fair amount of weight on the mainsheet, this will enable you to exert a good amount of tension on the kicking strap. This is essential if it is to fulfil its function of preventing the boom from lifting, when reaching or running before the wind. Thread and make off the Cunningham hole line and the mainsail is ready to use.
The adjustment to the Cunningham and outhaul lines are mentioned under 'Tuning'. Hank the sail to the forestay in the usual way. Attach the halliard, and hoist it until the tack of the sail is approximately 6" 15cm above the deck, and make fast. The luff of the sail is then tensioned by the small block and tackle. Do not hoist the headsails so high that the halliard wire to rope spliced seizing becomes exposed out of the bottom of the mast sheave.
This will cause unfair wear. The halliard should always be cleated off with the seizing just inside the mast and off the bearing surface of the sheave. The headsails should be sheeted wth the sheet itself falling between the main and lower shrouds to the fairleads, which should be 6" from the aft end for the Genoa. Final position of the fairlead is mentioned under 'Tuning'. It pays to reeve the sheets before hoisting the sail. The setting arrangement we recommend has the halliard and spi pole lift leaving the mast and leading back to the cockpit.
The final tuning should be done under way, when sailing in conditions typical for your area. This can be accomplished with the following adjustments Before leaving the mooring, make sure that the main cap shrouds are tight, as previously described, lets say very firm, but not bar tight.
Having got under way, and sailing on port tack, sight up the mast from the base. If the middle where the spreaders are is sagging to leeward, then tighten the lower shroud bottle screw until the mast is straight athwartships.
Repeat this procedure on the starboard tack. If the mast is bending to windward, then the lower shroud should be slackened a litlle until the mast is straight. When these adjustments have been satisfactorily made to the lowers, it may be necessary to tighten or slacken the backstay so that the mast bends slightly forward from the top of the forestay down.
After tuning is completed don't forget to lock the lower shroud bottle screws, and finally secure the back stay again. After heavier winds, if the wire rigging stretches slightly, it may be necessary to repeat tuning trials. Help from an experienced sailing friend will lead to a properly tuned mast. When sailing close hauled the sheet fairlead should be positioned on its sliding track so that if an imaginary line was cast from the fairlead through the clew of the sail where the sheets are attached it would reach a point half way up the length of the luff.
For good windward performance the Genoa can be sheeted in on the winch until the leach is about 2" from the spreader. The leach line showing about 9" up from the clew should be slackened until the sail starts to flap, and tightened little at a time until it stops.
If the line is over tightened this will cause the aft edge of the sail to curl, which is detrimental to the sail's performance. This applies to both Genoa and Jib. If the luff of the sail slackens or bellies from hank to hank, then pull on the downhaul and tension it.
The luff of any headsail should be like a knife cutting through the air. Mainsail Tuning Again the tuning of the mainsail should be carried out whilst sailing close hauled.
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