Model Ship Building Hull Planking Videos,Msc Boat Cruises 2020 Ed,Class 9th Ch 10 Maths 65 - Easy Way

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HMS Snake c Building the Hull Part 1 | Model ships, Ship craft, Tall ship model

Its available in the top menu under Modeling Techniques as. There are also some discussions and topics on this same techniques page. Browse through and enjoy. So far two are completed.

Planking and rope making. I have moved the more robust and educational topics on each subject along with any downloads, videos. A video on your painting technique would be great Chuck.

I'll second the recommendation by Grant for a video on Chuck's painting techniques for getting a high quality paint job without lap model ship building hull planking videos brush marks in the finish. I have been using thin coats of acrylics and, although I get a pretty good finish, I still end up with some noticeable lap and brush marks if you look closely. The video could include Model Ship Building Hull Planking Technology recommendations for preparing the surface for painting, brush types to use, how much to thin the paint and stroke techniques to help prevent lap and brush marks.

A video on the process of correctly fairing the hull would be great also since it is such an important step in model ship building hull planking videos laying the foundation for the model. I understand what we are trying to achieve in an accurately faired hull but Model ship building hull planking videos still don't feel confident model ship building hull planking videos how I go about it.

I'm often uncertain if I have taken off enough or too much even though I am checking the frames often with a batten. The video could include recommended sanding blocks and grades of sandpaper to use.

Is it best to start at the bow and work towards the middle or start in the middle and work towards the bow and then the stern, etc? What is the best way to fair the more difficult areas such as the more severe curves at the bow and stern? How should properly faired frames intersect with the rabbett and how does that vary along the length of the keel? A video demonstrating the process of cutting the rabbett would be great.

This is another important step that is often rather vague for many modelers. The video could cover many aspects of cutting the rabbett including the choice of tools, how the rabbett changes along the keel, how to check the cut as you go along and what it should look like when done properly especially at the stem and stern.

An addition to Chuck's model ship building hull planking videos planking videos would be a video demonstrating how to correct the little things like gaps that may show up along a plank. For example, in one of the planking videos, Chuck points out a small place where the plank he has just finished edge bending does not lie completely flush with the previous plank near the bow and says that it will take a little tweaking to get it to match up better.

How is that done? Does the plank need to be bent more at that point or does model ship building hull planking videos edge need to be beveled in that area or both?

Also, what is a good way to eliminate small gaps that appear between planks here and there? Is it best just to bevel that area only, etc? These are such important things to know since little errors in planking tend to creep and get magnified as we continue along model ship building hull planking videos planking process.

I know that successful, experienced modelers perfect their techniques over the years and that there isn't "one perfect way" to do any particular task, but a step-by-step video from someone with years of experience about their techniques would be very helpful to many of us. As the saying goes: " A picture is worth a thousand words" and I think a well made video can be even better.

Of all the jobs required to build most models, I don't think any are as daunting as taking a chisel to a keel for the rabbet. Talk about quickly screwing up, making a mistake cutting the rabbet is rarely recoverable I know.

The forums and build logs talk a good bit about the topic, and there are YouTube videos regarding the topic on real ships. Would it be useful to demonstrate the techniques from bearding line to laying a plank to installing a false stem? Lady Nelson is my first build. Have been struggling with first planking. I bought bender but tough to control. What I found was the best technique was to wet the plank for model ship building hull planking videos minute and then bend over a soldering iron.

You are able to bend and put a twist on the plank pretty easily. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now model ship building hull planking videos post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a model ship building hull planking videos instead. Clear editor.

Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.

The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck. Planking techniques and tutorials and videos.

Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Chuck Posted April 22, Posted April 22, Model ship building hull planking videos have to decide on the next one. Link to post Share on other sites.

BobG Posted April 23, Posted April 23, BoxbuildsRachChuck and 5 others Like Loading Excellent ideas Chuck Boxbuilds Posted November 24, Posted November 24, Chuck, Of all the jobs required to build most models, I don't think any are as daunting as taking a chisel to a keel for the rabbet.

Thanks for asking for ideas and your unfathomable experience. Johnnyoldboy Posted January 2. Posted January 2. Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL. Followers 4. Go to topic listing. Recently Browsing 0 members No registered users viewing this page. Sign In Sign Up. IPS spam blocked by CleanTalk.

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Use a Cutting Mat or plywood board to protect the surface you are using to cut the planks. It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, although not usually , be necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks.

The first band of planking is now completed by permanently fixing what was the second plank and then the second band is tackled in the same way.

It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel. After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks.

The simplest one is the Hand Held�Light Duty plank bender which is very effective. By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced.

By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced. The Heavy Duty version acts the same way but can be used to bend light metal. The Electric Plank Bender is applied to the plank after soaking it in water for approximately 10 minutes.

Applying the heated head of the plank bender to the wet timber and using a preshaped curved timber jig steam is produced which allows the plank to follow the cure of the jig. Very effective. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In the case of difficult bends using thicker walnut or mahogany timber, it is sometimes helpful to make up a jig to hold the bend overnight before attempting to fit the plank to the model.

Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible.

You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet. Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date.

As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. This is your opportunity to correct any shortcomings in the work so far. As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first.

Ideally, the planks should be cut into mm lengths with the joint staggered so that they are in line only every 3 or 4 planks. An alternative to laying short lengths of planking is to lay full lengths and score the joints with a knife later. We will also make all planks in pairs.

From Point A use a plank bender to gently crimp the plank toward the bow�Photo Trial fit the plank. If needed use the plank bender again by gently crimping between the previous crimps.

This will increase the curvature of the plank. Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the plank curvature. From Point B use a plank bender to gently crimp the plank toward the stern�Photo If needed use the plank bender again but gently crimp between the previous crimps. Now that you have shaped the first plank it is now time to fit it in position. Note again that the first plank will not be tapered.

Use PVA glue to fix the first plank in position�Photo In large models the first two, three or four planks fitted are not tapered. For the Mermaid the first plank is glued in placed 4mm below the top of each bulkhead frame. This is done to allow a bulwark to be fitted later. Some models have bulkhead frames that rise above the deck level. These are called the bulkhead horns.

If your model has bulkhead frame horns you will first need to fit the false deck before starting your planking. Fitting the false deck will add strength to the whole hull. You will start to plank the hull at or near the deck level. However, once you have finished planking the hull below the deck you will need to plank above the deck line over the horns.

You will need to remove the horns later to plank the deck fully so it is important to ensure that as you plank over the horns the planks are not glued to the horns. To ensure this you will need to place sticky tape over the horns.

Also, as you plank up the horns make sure you apply glue to the side edge of the planks. When the whole hull is fully planked you will use a razor saw pushed flush with the false deck to remove the horns. You can then prepare the false deck for planking�this aspect of model ship building is covered in the chapter on Deck Planking. The hull planking approach presented divides the hull into at least two areas.

For large models the approach can be used to divide the hull into three or more bands. Each band area is planked separately.

Step 1: On the mid-ship bulkhead frames mark a position approximately halfway to the keel from the bottom edge of the first plank - the same distance down on each mid-ship bulkhead frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width. For example - if the planks are say 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be say 45mm or 50mm or 55mm etc.

Step 2: Take a second plank and temporarily attach it at the positions you just have marked on the mid -ship bulkhead frames - do not glue this plank in position. Repeat for the other side of the hull. Step 3: Let this plank follow its natural course over the bulkhead frames to the bow and stern of the mid -ship bulkhead frames. At the stern the plank will be terminated at the junction between the keel and transom.

At the bow let the plank follow its natural course. Step 4: Temporarily attach the planks to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each plank is a mirror image of the other.

Checking the corresponding measurements port and starboard on the first and last frames should show up any errors. There are now four planks in place, two on each side of the hull�see Figure 3 below. The hull have now been divided into two bands� an upper band and a lower band. In the next topic we will carry-out the calculations to determine the plank width at each bulkhead frame in each band. We will focus on applying the planking principles to complete the first layer of planking within the two bands created.

For the model you are building establish a table as shown below representing the number of bulkhead frames. You may also need to include the transom as well. Record these distances in your table� see Table 1 below which is for the Mermaid. The plank width is 5mm. Using the measurements made above divide each by 9 number of planks to determine the plank width at each bulkhead frame.

Record in Table 1 below. Taking a pair of planks taper them to the required width at each bulkhead using a mini plane. Use a plank bender to bend the bow and stern end of each plank. Fit and glue in place these planks starting from the underside of the first plank. A rule of thumb is that planks should not be tapered to more than half their width.

However there may be times when this rule can be extended to two thirds of the plank width. After fitting each pair of planks recheck the measurements to ensure the correct plank width. Adjust as necessary. Repeat this process until Band A is closed on both sides of the hull�Photo Once Band A is closed remove the temporary planks.

The next step is to place the garboard plank in place. The garboard plank is the plank that is placed along the side of the keel. It is not tapered. However it will need shaping at the bow to follow its curvature.

Place another plank along side the garboard plank and shape it as well. Place a third plank along side of the second plank just fitted. At the stern allow this plank to follow its natural curvature over the deadwood area. You will see a gap will appear between this plank and the second plank fitted. A stealer or wedge will be used later to fill-in this gap�Photo To fill-in the remaining gap again establish a table as shown below for Band B.

I cant believe It's so hard to find the actual width and length of hull planks used on the HMS Surprise on the internet. This is useful, especially as I just planked thankfully the inner layer on my last kit using the water bend - dry on kit method which was fine for the sides but horrible for the front so am well up for planking 'better'.

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!! Chuck's planking videos Planking Techniques Public Club. Overview Community Map.

Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Posted July 18, Link to post Share on other sites. Sunsanvil Posted July 18, Ulises Victoria Posted July 18, Canute , mtaylor , CaptainSteve and 4 others Like Loading Canute , mtaylor , Nirvana and 3 others Like Loading Thanks Mark for posting.

Very helpful. Chuck Posted July 18, That is described here. Seventynet , slow2cool , Sunsanvil and 21 others Like Loading Posted July 19, Mark and Chuck Thanks for posting. I never saw this before. I can't wait for my next build to try this out. Will this work on all types of wood??? Nirvana Posted July 19, Ulises Victoria Posted July 19, Elijah , Rik Thistle , mtaylor and 9 others Like Loading SpyGlass Posted July 19, Posted July 19, edited.

Chucks finished work is beautiful - so who will argue with his methods Could I tap his brain for some clarification Did I miss something or did Chuck only mention using a few drops of CA as adhesive? Seriously - for myself - I wouldnt just use CA except as a quick tack while the white glue sets - I am old enough to have examples of CA aging and giving way And without edge to edge adhesive i would have thought the planking would not sand too well.

Anyway i just am having one of my envy moments!! Some people just have it! Edited July 19, by SpyGlass. CaptainSteve Posted July 19, Could you please tell us HOW you determine the proper positioning of this plank?? Edited July 19, by CaptainSteve. Chuck Posted July 19, Sunsanvil Posted July 19, Canute , Nirvana , slow2cool and 2 others Like Loading I can vouch for chucks heat bending with no water. SpyGlass Posted July 20, Posted July 20, Quite fascinating.

Could I just probe a bit further Chuck. Final query - your planking looks great and essentially "finished" immedaielty after fitting. Nirvana , Canute , slow2cool and 2 others Like Loading Chuck Posted July 20, Here is some more detail Here is a straight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull.

Thanks for that Chuck basically I have always done my planks the way you describe - but not with such good results But I have always used full strips and edge glued using white glue - which is where the differences appear. Posted July 20, edited. David B Edited July 20, by dgbot. GuntherMT Posted July 21, Posted July 21, WackoWolf Posted July 22, Posted July 22, SpyGlass Posted July 22, Posted July 22, edited.

Just tried Chucks method with CA using Boxwood on a scrap piece of ply as a surface - and it works just so well All those struggles over the years with edge gluing!!!!

Not a trace of glue on the surface!!!





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