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We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. It is usually not necessary or advisable to nail the side and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside the battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom battens to hold the battens fair. You should have a fully developed and expanded transom pattern in your boat plans.
Using this pattern you may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould in one piece. If you make the transom as a separate unit, it can be at least partially laid up away from the main mould. This is required if you have a transom with a reverse panel, where the laminate would need to be laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation.
If you build the transom in place, then the transom pattern can be used to cut the lining material. While you are installing the transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould. Always install battens on alternate sides of the centre line, working progressively on both sides.
After all battens are in place, install fairing gussets or strips of one half inch [12mm] thick by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two strips between each frame.
The strips run from sheer to the chine and from the chine to the centre line. The strips will even out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly help in fairing up your hull.
You will need two people to install these plywood strips. As you will be attaching the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you should make sure the battens are fair before you start to install the lining material. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any other suitable sheeting material. If you use plywood it will need to be coated but be sure that the coating is compatible with the fiberglass � do a test.
From this stage onward work closely with your fibreglass materials supplier and take his advice on the correct wax and release agent to use on the mould. Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to fill.
By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould. Carefully pre-fit each sheet before applying the cement and attaching it to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining providing you work with some care. Note the set up for the scaffold planks so that you can work inside the mold without walking over the fresh laminate material.
The boat plans have much more detail than can be included here. Also, radius any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For this job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will be installing.
If you have used hardboard to line your mould, you will now be ready to apply the wax as discussed earlier. If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC release-agent.
You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable system. We would recommend you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear. To start the laminating process, choose a day where the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius.
Brush or spray the gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0. You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier. Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin.
This is important so see your resin supplier about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation and avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a later date.
You will need two or three helpers as you start to lay up the hull and it is advisable, for temperature control, to be at the same stage of lamination each day with each successive layer. If the laminate overheats from applying too much material at one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from the mould.
Once the gelcoat and first layer of mat are in place you will have passed the most critical stage of your laminating process. Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems.
As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing workers can lay up a fifty foot [20 metres] hull in a few days. Two layers of fibreglass per day, one mat and one roving, is a reasonable amount to install at one go without causing the laminate to overheat.
New resins are being formulated all the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from your materials supplier. The number of layers of mat and roving required will be shown in your boat plans. After the layers that cover the whole hull surfaces are completed, you will most likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of the keel and below the hull waterline. Most laminate schedules call for overlapping and or interleaving the various layers in the areas such as the chine and keel, thus building up extra strength where it is required.
Again, we remind you to trim the sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the final layer for the day has been installed. Once you have installed the basic laminate and any extra layers called for in your plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc and any other reinforcing members called for in your boat plans.
You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould. After you have completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc and if you do not plan to use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as a cradle. Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the minimum of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish.
This Waverunner 65 has now been chartering in the Greek Islands for several years In either case, the best method to install the core is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core can be installed manually. If you intend building a sandwich hull, please read the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core materials.
The main advantage of using this technique is that a full mould is not required. You will retain the advantage that a minimum of finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull. Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional standard of finish.
For panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them up on a set of bedlogs, is similar to the methods used when building an Ezi-build mould. Only a few battens are required to hold the frames square and vertical. The technique of setting up the basic framework to hold the fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of building the Ezi-build mould.
The fewer battens required and the absence of a mould lining material, are the main differences between the Ezi-build and the Panel methods. Additional bracing is used on the outside of the frame assembly and once the frames and the few battens are installed, the mould is ready for the fibreglass panels. The success of the Panel method depends upon the builder obtaining accurate information such as computer generated full size patterns for the frames and either patterns or computer lofted offsets for the panels.
The boat plans have considerable detail on setting up the building frames etc. Before you proceed, check over your framework to make sure it is true and level. It is very important that the framework is sufficiently braced to insure that the shape will be maintained during the installation of the panels. The surface of the table is very important as any blemishes in the surface of the table will be faithfully reproduced in the outer surface of your laminate, so it should as smooth as you can make it.
There are many others to choose from as long as they have a smooth shiny surface and are compatible with polyester resins, should serve nicely. As the sandwich panels can be large, the table top material is best if available in one piece. Check this out as the fewer joins the better. In most cases, you will need to prepare the surface with a wax and release agent. See preparing the Ezi-build mould. Once the panels are laminated they are laid inside the framework and joined together.
The method of making each panel is quite simple, providing you have accurate patterns or offsets for each panel.
Using masking tape, mark out the shape of each panel on the laminating table and lay up the required laminate to form one panel. If you are using a core material, it should be installed while the laminate is on the table. Consider which way the panel will need to bend, if any, when it is laid in the mould, before installing the core on your laminate.
Depending which brand you are using, cores often take a bend better in one direction than another. Usually only outer laminate and the core are installed while the panel is on the table. Some deck parts, cabin sides, cabin tops and other areas of your boat can have both sides the sandwich laminated while the panel is still on the table. This is only recommended in areas where there is a minimum bend required to place the panel in its final location.
Installing the interior laminate, stiffeners, if required, and bulkheads etc. The most common one-off boat building technique is the Foam or Balsa Sandwich building method which involves the use of a frame and batten mold over which is laid either semi-rigid PVC foam core or balsa sheets that are sewn into the mold.
The outer skin is laid up over this. The foam is now more widely used for boat hulls and we have found it easier to use and provided you choose the correct grades it will provide the basis for a long lasting hull. The balsa is quite flexible and lays around most compound curves without giving too unfair a surface.
The urethane foam is later removed from the inside to give a single skin area below the cabin sole and down into the keel where the web floors will be bonded in after the hull is externally complete. Balsa sandwich is more widely used in powerboats flat surfaces make it easier to install in those areas and for sailboat hulls we do prefer One Off Fiberglass Boat Building 2020 the foam sandwich.
Balsa is widely used for sandwich deck construction. This double balsa technique provides an extremely strong and stiff hull, however, the technique is a little more expensive than using the single layer of balsa.
The inner skin on a balsa sandwich vessel usually is one third of the thickness of the outer skin. Balanced laminates can be used but we feel that the extra laminate on the outside is required to provide the necessary impact strength. The first step is building the batten mold.
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