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The only place where water can enter is through the shooting port. The boat has a removable rear swivel seat. The steering wheel is located beside the forward attached swivel seat, flat against the port side.
The throttle is located against the starboard side. When in the hunting position, the seats are swiveled to face the side of the boat toward the decoys.
A one-piece top encloses the boat completely keeping out the weather. Dapson said he and his hunting partners have slept in the boat many times and been very comfortable in all weather conditions.
The boat is extremely safe. After duck season is ended, Dapson simply backs his boat into his garage, attaches the blind to a hoist and lifts it up to the rafters for storage until the next hunting season. Miller's Hide-A-Way Blind Todd Miller of Rocky Point, North Carolina, designed and built a boat blind which folds down on top of his aluminum johnboat's gunwales rather than to the inside or outside as many blinds do.
It has bases with pivot points that attach to the supports and the gunwales to let the supports fold forward to allow the conduit blind frame to lay flat on top of the gunwales, completely out of the way.
The frame is held in the erect position by a simple system of coated wire cables and snap hooks. Turnbuckles are used to tighten or loosen the cable stays for adjusting the blind and keeping the tension in the framework as the cables stretch. Miller's Hide-A-Way Blind is built on a 17 feet long, 54 inches wide Phatbuoyz aluminum boat, which he has customized to run with a 25 horsepower Prodrive shallow drive mud motor.
The main type of hunting he does is for puddle ducks and ring-necked ducks in shallow water areas such as beaver ponds and swamps. But he also uses his boat blind on coastal tidal rivers. Such shallow-water use makes the overall weight of the boat and blind a major concern. A removable gun box was built into the boat in the event the boat became stuck and heavy gear had to be off-loaded to lighten the boat and free it.
The Bimini top bases were mounted to the longer top frame sections and support poles boat using screws. Next, Miller built two crossbars from conduit sections, which were cut to match the width of the boat between the two top frame sections. The conduit ends were ground to fit into pipe elbows and then driven into the elbows. The other ends of the elbows were driven onto the ends of the top frame sections to forming a rectangle.
The crossbars were bent down into a modified "U" shape to keep them low enough for easy step-over access when the blind is folded down. Next, the top blind frame conduit sections were attached to the folding support poles by screwing them onto the Bimini top brackets.
With the blind assembly in the collapsed position, the crossbars and all supports were adjusted so they would be out of the way, folding neatly into position and securely open once the blind was installed. I cut the cable longer than actually necessary so I would be able to adjust it after it stretches and while I was positioning the blind.
Then, I moved to the rear of the boat and drilled the rear crossbar to place an eyebolt on each side for attaching the rear cables. The rear crossbar cables were attached to the blind frame crossbar eyebolts with cable clamps. A system of anchor chain shackles and cable clamps was used to attach the swivel snaps and turnbuckles so the snaps could be attached to the towing eyes on the outside of the stern for the rear of the blind and to the eyebolts installed on the forward deck to secure the front of the blind.
I started by loosening the turnbuckles as far as they would go out. Then I went to the front of the boat and pulled the cables tight and tightened the cable clamps. Then I moved to the rear of the boat, loosened the turnbuckles and repeated the process. Once each corner was even with the cables tightened, I was ready to add the camouflaging material. Miller used Avery Fast Grass to camouflage the blind.
To form the base for attaching the artificial grass, he used plastic fencing commonly used on construction sites. He said the plastic fencing can be purchased at any contractor supply or discount construction materials store. Fast Grass is much more user friendly and more flexible.
My Hide-A-Way Blind now has four years of use and has been on two boats. It has performed very well in a wide range of hunting situations. Let's just say, he had a very good hunt! From warm and moisture-wicking base layers to water and windproof outer layers, this is a complete system for women who love to chase fall and wintertime ducks and geese across the four flyways!
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November 03, By Mike Marsh. Mike Schneiderhan used an old pontoon boat as the basis for a comfortable, shallow-draft waterfowl blind. He didn't divulge the cost of the fixer-upper project. Dapson's removable blind fits on top of his johnboat, and it's water-tight. Dale Dapson converted a conversion van top discovered in a junkyard to build a lightweight, removable blind for his johnboat.
He simply hoists it off the boat to the top of his garage between hunting seasons. Miller's Hide-A-Way Blind folds forward along the gunwales to keep the front and rear of the boat accessible. Sign Me Up. Picking a Puppy Wildfowl contributor Mark Romanack shares advice about choosing your next retriever. A staffing recruiter and outfitter Peterson We might not see anxiety or worry in our dogs, but it is there and can affect hunting ability.
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Push the new pipe sections into the 4-way connections so they span the length of the boat and support your frame. Method 2 of Screw U-shaped metal brackets in the 4 corners of your boat. Place your first bracket on top of the frame in the back of your boat near the motor, and drive a screw through it to secure it. Put the second bracket directly across from the first one on the opposite side of the boat.
Place the last 2 brackets at the front of your boat before it starts to narrow, and screw them in so they run parallel with the back brackets. Cut 4 pieces of metal conduit that match the inside width of your boat. Measure the distance between the center of one of your brackets to the opposite inside edge of your boat. Secure a pipe cutter onto the conduit on your mark and rotate it completely around. Keep rotating the pipe cutter until it makes a clean cut, and continue until you have 4 pieces that are the same length.
Drill holes in one end and the center of each conduit. Use a drill with a bit meant for boring through metal. Measure in 1 inch 2. Then, find the midpoint of each conduit and drill another hole through the pipe.
Attach the conduits to the brackets with nuts and bolts. Test pivoting the conduit up and down in the bracket to make sure it moves smoothly. Attach the rest of the conduits to the other brackets. Attach degree angle pieces to the top of each conduit with screw couplings. Get 4 degree conduit pieces that are the same diameter as your other pieces. Put a screw coupling onto the end of one of your conduits and fit the degree angle into the other side.
Point the angled piece down the length of the boat towards the other bracket on the same side. Tighten the screws on the coupling to secure the pieces together. Repeat the process for each other conduit.
Secure horizontal sections of conduit between the angled pieces. Measure the length between the open ends of the angled conduit pieces and cut 2 more pieces of your straight conduit to fit between them. Push a screw coupling onto the ends of the angled pieces, and push the straight conduits onto the other side. Secure the horizontal sections in place by tightening the screws. Place wire lock pins through the center holes on the conduit to hold them in place.
Lift up both sides of your frame so they intersect and make an X-shape on each end. Line up the holes in the centers of the conduits and push a lock pin through them. Method 3 of Paint the frame a matte brown or green color. Make sure to use a matte brown or dark green so it blends in with the rest of your camouflage.
Hold the spray paint 6 inches 15 cm from the frame and apply a thin coat in short bursts. Once you apply the first coat, wait about 15 minutes before applying another coat. Cut camouflage netting to fit on the sides of your boat.
Measure from the top of the frame down to the bottom of your boat with your measuring tape. Hang the netting on the frame using zip ties.
Hold the netting up to the top bar of the frame so it extends 3�4 inches 7. Pull the zip tie tight against your frame to secure the netting in place. Work your way around the boat to completely camouflage it. Attach blind grass onto the netting if you want additional camouflage. Blind grass simulates the natural plant life on the water and can help conceal your boat more.
Lay out the blind grass on the outside of the netting and secure it in place every 6�12 inches 15�30 cm with zip ties. Make sure the bottom of the blind grass extends past the top and bottom of your boat to hide it better. You can also use dead leaves and branches of the natural plant life in your area if you want. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0.
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