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Construction plans and materials list are included. The plywood stations are shipped in one box via UPS. Cost will vary depending upon the canoe model and shipping location.
This kit includes all materials to build a form. The form kit will be shipped in two packages. Most of the materials for the form are shipped in one long wooden box by common carrier. The plywood stations are sent in one box by UPS. This kit contains all the pre-cut materials required to build the canoe.
Included are pre-cut and shaped white cedar ribs, half ribs and planking, spruce rails beveled and rabbeted as needed, pre-bent stems, pre-finished caned seats, a clinching iron, brass tacks, bronze bolts and stem bands, canvas, canvas filler, varnish and your choice of marine finish paint. The shipping for canoe kit materials consists of three different packages. One long wooden box fits most of the wood, canvas, and hardware. The pre-bent stems are in a second box and the filler and paints in a third.
These two smaller boxes can be sent via UPS. There is much more to the design of an efficient paddle than would appear at first glance. The cross ribs were made of barrel hoops which we had soaked in water for a day or so to render them pliable of the Canoe Frame. Copper tacks of the Canoe Frame. Forty cross ribs were nailed on, and at the center of the canoe they were spaced about three inches apart. The center form was then removed and cut along the dotted lines shown in Fig.
The semicircular pieces thus obtained Wood And Canvas Canoe Plans 36 were now strengthened with strips on their inner edges, and wedged in between the keelson and the gunwales, to which they were nailed, as shown in Fig. A pair of cleats nailed to the cross ribs served as supports for the seat of the canoe.
Before laying on the canvas covering the edges of the gunwales, keelson, deck beams, stem and stern posts were smoothed down with sandpaper. The frame was laid in the center of the canvas and the latter drawn around it. Then with a large needle and strong twine we sewed both edges of the cloth Diy Wood And Canvas Canoe Jp together with long stitches, lacing the canvas over the frame as a shoe is laced over a foot.
This done, the boat was turned deck downward and the canvas was tacked to the keelson. In each case, before driving in a tack a daub of white lead was applied, to water-proof the spot. At the stem and stern a gore narrow triangular piece was cut out of the canvas so as to make it lie smooth on the frame, and white lead was painted in between the overlapping edges. The canoe was then turned deck upward and the lacing tightened, while we carefully worked out all wrinkles in the cloth.
After tacking the canvas along the gunwales on the outside, it was trimmed off, leaving sufficient margin to be brought over the gunwales and tacked inside. Two triangular pieces were cut out for the decks, and these were lapped over the outer canvas and tacked to the gunwales. A narrow molding along the edge of the boat served to cover the tack heads and added a certain finish to the canoe. A keel plate 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick was attached to the outside of the boat, and then, after wetting the canvas, it was given a coat of white lead and oil.
When this was perfectly dry it was sandpapered and the second coat applied. A cleat nailed to the pillar at each side of the rudder post served to greatly strengthen the joint. The rudder was hinged to the canoe by a rod, which passed through four brass screw eyes, two threaded into the rudder and a corresponding pair screwed into the stern.
For convenience in steering we ran our tiller rope clear around the boat, through screw eyes in the gunwales and a pulley at the stem, so that the steersman could guide his craft from any point in the canoe. We planned to use our canoe as a sailboat, and had to provide a deep keel, which, for convenience, was made detachable. Screw eyes about twelve inches apart were threaded alternately into opposite sides of the keel plate. Corresponding hooks were attached to the keel in position to hook into the screw eyes, and thus hold the keel firmly in place.
Our boat was fitted with two masts, a mainmast and a mizzen or dandy mast. They were held in brass bands, or clamps, bent around them and secured to the bulkheads, as shown in Fig. The sails were of the lanteen type. The boom was attached to a strap of leather on the mast, and was thus given freedom to swing around in any desired position. The yard was similarly attached, and was raised by a cord, which passed through pulleys at the top and at the base of the mast and extended to a cleat within easy reach of the occupant of the boat.
A double paddle was fashioned from a board 1 inch thick, 6 inches wide and 6 feet long. It will be observed that we used no iron in the construction of this boat. Uncle Ed has warned us not to, because iron rusts out so easily and is apt to damage both the canvas and the wood with which it is in contact. A canoe is rather a tipsy thing to sail in, as we soon learned, and it was lucky that we could all swim, else our vacation might have ended very tragically; for the very first time Bill and I tried the boat an unexpected gust of wind struck us and over we went.
One thing that bothered us greatly in sailing was the keel of our canoe. It was forever getting twisted, particularly when we tried to make a landing. There were only a few places along the island where the water was deep enough to permit our coming right up to shore without striking the keel. The fastening was not very strong, and every once and awhile it would be wrenched loose. The matter was made the subject of a special letter to Uncle Ed, and in due time his answer was received.
As usual, he offered a first-class solution of the difficulty. Lee boards, then, are boards which are hung over the lee side of a boat to prevent it from drifting to leeward, and they serve to take the place of a keel or centerboard.
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