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This is a much asked question with no silver bullet answer. Dealing with variables is the number one issue when painting anything. There are endless paint choices. Eggshell is mid sheen, and generally a durable finish. Traditionally it is self undercoating. So if you have bare timber, you only need a solid primer plus a few coats of eggshell, and you are good to go.
Which brand of eggshell paint is toughest? In other words, every brand of eggshell you can think of is likely going to be suitable for your furniture. If you apply them right, you will get a good end result. For that extra few percent reliability, pro furniture painters tend to turn to Scandinavian trade brands like Tikkurila, Alcro or increasingly Benjamin Moore from USA.
But as I say, it is so easy to go round and round in one-upmanship. There are always pros and cons. That level of sheen provides the lowest durability for one pack furniture paints. Costings are a moot point really, when you only need small quantities of paint for the odd piece of furniture.
Merchants change their prices with their socks and offer so many discounts and terms it is impossible to stay current. In my own place I have furniture painted with oil eggshell and acrylic eggshell and chalk paint. The Little Greene oil eggshell is super matt and distressed from excessive use; the Annie Sloan chalk paint is solid; the Fired Earth acrylic eggshell on a dresser is solid but to my eye looks a bit too perfect and plastic in certain light.
I could have gone with Tikkurila Empire satin oil paint instead of Little Greene, and maybe achieved a more durable finish on the cabinet, but I wanted a flatter finish so went with Little Greene. I could have distressed the life out the chalk paint but I liked the understated character of a solid finish with a wax coating.
In other words, furniture paint choice can be distilled down to technical performance, but furniture painting veers more towards art. So take your pick and experience will make your future paint choices easier!
Here are some of these paint suitable for furniture. If you know what you are doing, you can enjoy the whole painting process, knowing you have got off to a good start. A roll of lining paper works well, or a sheet of One Tuff if you like your floor protection tuff and fluff free. Cotton dust sheets or newspaper, nooooooooooo � that is making life hard for yourself. Masking tape There are plenty of painting demos on Youtube where a few pieces of masking tape in the right place would have raised the standard from sloppy DIY to thoughtful professional.
Masking tape is generally graded by how long it can be left on a surface before it creates any damage on removal. Dolphin is also a reliable blue tape used by Traditional Painters and about half the price of the 3M range. A trip to a Motor Factor will also throw up some good and cheap masking tape, if you are in the market. Tesa have a very good range of tapes for all occasions. If you use masking tape on floors, it is good to get in the habit of trying not to walk on it, as that seems increase the bond to the floor.
Just dust the surface down. Krudkutter Original is a good option. It is biodegradable, a fraction of the price of KrudKutter, and most importantly is readily available. Mix it with warm water, apply it through the spritzer, leave to soak and it will probably dry to look like tea leaves.
This is the wax broken down. Go at it with a good kitchen scourer till the surface is clean. Do wear gloves when using any degreaser. Even natural degreasing products are unable to differentiate between wax and your skin! Sandpaper used to be sand bonded to paper. We tend to think of abrasives now, not sand paper!
The options available ot you have come a long way since Oakey sandpaper, the stuff that used to disintegrate and stink to high heaven when it got damp! Mirka Abranet is the way ahead, especially as it comes with such a simple starter kit that attaches to your Henry for instant professional dustless sanding! If you use acrylic eggshell, on flat surfaces, sand between coats with or grade abranet, wipe down with a tack rag and your finish will likely be nice and smooth.
On profiles like mouldings, use a spongy sanding pad, or if you have a lot to do, consider Mirka Gold Flex, which is a bit of a revelation for sanding edges without removing too much paint. Mirka do provide many of the best sanding solutions on the market.
Chalk paint can be sanded super glassy smooth, but really, there is no need to sand till you have applied the first coat of wax. That is the Annie Sloan way and it really is much cleaner that way if you have no dust extraction equipment. Abranet is the abrasive of choice �.
Across the range, Abranet is used on the roughest woodwork to the highest class autos. It is part of a dustless sanding system. I have adopted the whole power sanding system too, but I still have this starter kit, and would use it most days. The system is a sanding block with a hose and a conical bung at the end of the tube that plugs into your vacuum cleaner, plus some abrasives. Without seeing it, I know its a weird concept, but honestly, it has revolutionised decorating across the board.
And this is what the basic kit looks like. So you use the sanding block for flat areas, the dust goes straight down the tube into your vacuum.
For fiddly bits, there are a variety of specialist sponges and blocks available, but for DIY to get the feel for it, the simplest option is an interface pad. I take this pad off the sanding block and use it for sanding profiles. The primary job of an adhesion primer is to adhere to the substrate AND to the subsequent layer of paint, be that an undercoat or eggshell.
Therefore ensure the surface to be primed has a key ie make sure the timber or previous coat of paint is sanded so that under a microscope, there are hooks and nooks and crannies for the primer to soak into and cling to. There is usually no problem doing the minimum sanding of clean bare timber. It is a good substrate for primer. Old previously painted surfaces usually need between and 80 grade abrasives to be prepared sufficiently well.
Make sure the primer, when dry, is then sanded sufficiently to remove any nibs and imperfections, but without sanding so much that the primer is polished.
Some adhesion primers also resist stains from knots and resin from oak. Stain blocker primers have really taken a hold! The industry favourites tend to be shellac based, but there are water-based and oil-based alternatives that will work well if used with a certain level of understanding, else they tend to fail miserably.
I would advise having the primer tinted to match the top coat. It helps on several levels: no white scratch lines if the finish paintwork is damaged down to the primer; matched colours throughout the paint layers improves the density of the top colour. No difference in fact. So when you see waterbased finishes and low odour, just bear in mind the path to the topcoat may be a smelly one.
Keep windows open, wear a respirator ideally. Really, why not! I would keep a nice through draft going when using waterborne paints too, just to get them out the way as quickly as possible. They may not smell but they are still chemical products. If possible always try to stick to one brand of primer, basecoat and topcoat.
In the event of a problem, you are more likely to have the ear of the paint rep. The minute you say you used paints from 2 or more different companies, the buck passing will likely start. Zinsser BIN is found in most decorator vans, in a tin or an aerosol can. Two thin coats seems to hold back most known stains. It can be tinted to match most light and mid tone colours. These primers clean up and can be diluted with meths, so not a great aroma and not really good to be around if the room is poorly ventilated.
On the upside they dry really quickly. For large panels, dilute the primer ith meths and apply fast and even with a mini microfibre roller. The paint will level out surprisingly well on its own. Apply second coat for solid coverage and after about an hour of drying, you can lightly scuff sand the surface to achieve a nice flat solid base. Tikkurila Otex � Sold as a stain blocker primer. Not sure about that. I would have a pot of shellac based primer on hand to double coat obvious knots before priming overall.
It flows out to a superb finish, so definitely do not polish this primer when sanding it ready for the next coats.
A light and thorough scuff with grade abrasive or Mirka Mirlon or Goldflex should be enough to create a key. It can be tinted to match any colour topcoat. Zinsser Coverstain � tends to sand down very easily to a glassy smooth finish, creates a lot of dust, so best to use dust extraction sanding.
Can be tinted to match most light and mid tones. Tikkurila Unica varnish � this is a long standing product, but I wager very few have ever known about its stain blocker abilities on oak. Second coat would be Otex and away you go. Classidur Extrem Swiss firm Classidur were ahead of the game for decades with stain blocking paints. Extrem is their 21st century water based stain blocker primer.
Tikkurila Otex Akva is the waterbased version of Otex. It has a full body and offers high adhesion on prepared surfaces.
Definitely do not rely on it to hold back any stains though. Dulux QD primer The chances are this is a re-branded Sikkens primer, so it will work well. Not a stain blocker though. Zinsser Bullseye � It always gets a mention, personally I avoid it, it is a bit too hit an miss for my liking. In general, staining is caused by a reaction between the pigment in a waterbased paint and an oily or alkaline substrate.
Therefore to hold back a stain, a let the first coat absorb the oil or resin b let the first coat dry thoroughly c apply the second waterbased stainblocker coat without fear of reactivating the stain. That is the theory, and it can be hard to implement in practice on small projects where time is of the essence. If you can wait a day between coats you are probably safe, but hours same day recoating is pushing it and you may be lucky, you may not.
Hence why the trade tend towards shellac quick drying stain blockers. If using oil based paints, and you want to stick to old school, you could stop nail heads with linseed oil putty or a plastic wood. Wipe any excess putty or plastic wood off the surface with a rag. Putty skins over sufficiently overnight for painting.
Use a chisel to level off plastic wood. The extent of your filling is very subjective. I could skim and fill the grain of old pine furniture with Toupret Gras a Lacquer till it had a porcelain blemish free finish, but often it is pointless going that far and a perfect glassy smooth finish may detract from the fact it is a piece of pine.
I fill obvious nail holes, and then make a judgement on where I stop. Fillers and primers are getting quite complex bedfellows these days. If this has been of use, why not keep informed with updates by email.
And the same applies to the logic of buying a cruddy brush! Better brushes hold their shape, hold lots of paint without running, release paint evenly and are well balanced to hold. This combination makes for productive painting and increases the chances of a fine end result.
Before painting with waterbased paint, always dunk your brush into water so the bristles are wet. Shake it out so there is no water left dribbling down the handle! Wrap in a paper towel if it is too wet. This pre-priming of the filaments will help the paint flow better and will make it easier to clean out the brush afterwards. There are different paints with different amounts of drag, so a soft bristle brush will leave few marks but may not be strong enough to push paint around.
Sometimes you need finesse on mouldings, sometimes you need to get maximum paint on, so a thinner stock v thicker stock brush comes into play. In other words, there are certain brushes that do certain tasks better than others. Every painter has their favourites. Birth of a world beating British brush �. MyPaintBrush commissioned a traditional paint brush for modern paints. Martin Guest our trusty kitchen and furniture painter in the W Midlands worked with a local brush-maker to develop what are now known as the Fox brushes.
In a year, the group produced and tested a revolutionary paint brush range that ticks many many boxes. The bristles are super fine. The shape has been formed using literally new technology. Other brush makers can achieve the same shape, but with chemicals, which cause bristles to wear out prematurely. The Fox bristles are very robust and also seem to hold a fantastic amount of paint, but still cut a sharp straight line.
Although they are fine and soft, the bristles hold their shape and work in water-based, oil based and heavy shellac based paint. That is phenomenal. Full story on the Fox paint brush here. Can you tell, we are proud of the Fox! And being made in the UK, they are very reasonable prices too, especially in bundles. I think the Wooster FTP is one the best conventional brushes for chalk paint.
I have updated this section, there is too much water pollution for the good of our long term health, and even occasional cleaning out of water based paint under running taps is not helping. Instead, at break times or overnight, place your brush in the cover. It is designed for protecting bristles and keeping water based paint soft for a few days.
It works well, designed for skinny brushes though. That is a Rembrandt, the stockier 2. This pot of gel will keep your water based AND oil based brushes in perfect condition for months.
When you want a break or at the end of the day or at the end of a job, literally wipe off excess paint and dunk the brush into the gel. You can leave it an hour for lunch or with the lid on, 6 � 12 months, and when you come back, scrape gel off bristles into a scrap pot and carry on painting.
Read more here. Here is a series of videos showing the clever Dutch cleaning systems. Acrylic eggshell can be applied to a perfectly flat finish! Conditioner for acrylic eggshell paint. Try tap water first. It is a colourless pure acrylic fluid, so does not diminish the qualities of conventional acrylic paints.
Also use a best brush! Paint chemists will tell you that the Floetrol does extend the drying time of paint, which extends the curing time. This is sort of a moot point. New paint even if dry, needs to be left for about 4 weeks or so before it reaches full hardness.
Some decorators will tell you all conditioners are a waste of money! At best it will give you time to work the paint. This is an alternative conditioner which some decorators are getting quite attached to.
A few drops, keep topping up, turns the paint slippy and improves flow nicely. Floetrol has been proven not to do the same to the same paint. XIM also contains an alcohol, which technically is anathema to the durability of acrylic resin! Again, with a bit of technique, the conditioner will help brushmarks flow out nicely.
It does extend drying time, but there are a couple of observations here:. UK trade oil paints seem to be relatively slow drying, so the root of the criticism about Floetrol retarding drying excessively may well come from the trade. There are thousands of blogs and forums that talk about painting pine and painting pine furniture.
I see a lot of misconceptions floating around, and home DIY painters especially, are getting in trouble, unnecessarily, following duff advice, or not understanding a few simple principles. Painting pine properly is not super easy, it is not something any kid could do without thinking. However this isnt rocket science either, and with a few thoughts in the forefront of your mind, any keen DIY painter can achieve excellent painting results.
Below is an article I wrote that outlines the fundamental principles for painting pine furniture:. When you have read the article, you should have a clearer picture in your mind of the practical steps and the principles behind painting any pine furniture. However, there are lots of combinations of primers and paints for different surfaces, so by all means come back here, and below is a series of step by steps to paint varnished pine furniture, paint waxed furniture etc.
When deciding which primers and finish paint to use on pine furniture, there is choice. Oil based or water based, or a combination of the two. Armed with the knowledge above, plus a good paint brush, abranet abrasives, vacuum cleaner with brush attachment, decent paint, a few bits and bobs, and the stages below, you are good to go!
I think the combination of water-based primer, oil based undercoat, oil-based eggshell is the solution numero uno that ticks all the boxes for the most durable and, in my opinion, the most beautiful traditional paint finish possible on timber:. Step-by-step way to an oil paint finish on pine �.
Not dripping! When the cleaner has evaporated off, sand with or grade Abranet abrasive paper, using a foam sanding pad for intricate areas. Krudkutter Original with scourers achieves a quicker and cleaner end result. Leave to dry overnight and then sand as above. Prime pine � Prime with Classidur Extrem which historically adhered to any surface better than any other primer available to the decorating trade.
Mythic Universal primer is on a par with the above, but because of its consistency, I would specify 2 coats of Mythic primer on new timber versus one of the Blackfriars. Pine has knots and may exude resin and react with the pigment in the waterbased primer and leave a brown stain. If so, touch in the stains with 2 thin coats of clear shellac or Zinsser Aerosol. Undercoat � If using Little Greene oil eggshell topcoats, stick with Little Greene and apply a coat of oil-based Little Greene oil undercoat tinted to the colour of the top coat.
It has body and dries as expected. If using Tikkurila Unica eggsell as a topcoat, use Tikkurila Otex oil based base coat that can be tinted to any colour. Prior to last coat, sand with or grade for a lovely finish. Brush tip! Clean it out after priming in water-based so it is ready for oil painting. Finish with the undercoating, then use a scraper and piece of lining paper to get out as much paint as you can. Then work the brush in to the eggshell.
By the time you are onto the second coat of eggshell, the brush will be perfect. When you are not using the brush between coats of oil paint, place it in the Store n Go gel pot. It is based on what I have picked up from the most knowledgeable residential painter online, US painter, Jack Pauhl.
When starting from bare pine, please bear in mind that a complete water-based system of water-based primer and water-based topcoats has little body and will do little to disguise the grain of the wood. The finish will be tough, it is low odour and nice to apply, but you will see the grain, big time. That may be acceptable. If you want to reduce the grain, start with 2 coats of a quick-drying oil-based primer like Tikkurila Otex or Zinsser Coverstain.
Although rather smelly, is the best start to a more solid water-based finish. Step-by-step way to an acrylic eggshell paint finish on pine �. Prepare pine � Preparation is same as above ie If woodwork is fairly clean, wipe it thoroughly with a lint-free rag dampened with Krudkutter Original or white spirit or meths.
Sand with or grade abranet, using a foam sanding pad for intricate areas. Or, if the woodwork is waxy or filthy, Krudkutter Original with scourers achieves a quick and clean end result. See Annie Sloan chalk paint below if you cannot stand the prospect of too much preparation of waxy pine. Knot and prime pine For a belt and braces approach, use Zinsser Aerosol to seal knots and then prime with Zinsser Cover Stain or Otex oil-based paint These are superb trade products that dry quickly.
On small projects, you can have the surface sealed and primed twice in a day, ready for finishing the next day. Fill over first coat of primer Now you can see the blemishes, do any filling, and sand smooth. Prepare for Acrylic eggshell finish Here is where you will see the difference between Coverstain and Otex.
Otex only Wooden Kitchens Asda Youtuber needs a light rub over with abranet. You do not want to make it glassy smooth as this affects the adhesion of the topcoats! When prepared, apply 2 coats of acrylic eggshell, sanding with or finer Abranet between coats.
As you can see, this approach with oil primer plus acrylic topcoats is a bit more thorough than the slap-it-on-quick technique that many people are lead to believe is the advantage of using water-based eggshell.
Of course the acrylic topcoats are nice to use! You need a really good technique to avoid brush marks in acrylic eggshell. I cover this elsewhere on the site under Brushes. I developed this system on a project where absolutely no oil paint was allowed on site, and the finish on the woodwork had to be 5 star.
Apply 2 heavy coats of artists Acrylic Gesso, leave 24 hours and sand smooth with grade Abranet. Apply 1 acrylic primer undercoat, and 2 topcoats of acrylic eggshell � keep to one brand for the basecoat and topcoats.
The acrylic gesso is used by artists who prime canvas to create a super smooth substrate before painting. It is water-based and the consistency is like a cross between liquid filler and oil-based undercoat.
Repainting over old oil paint, I would have no hesitation in recommending waterbased primer and water based topcoat. The reasoning is that all the hard work for preparing a solid surface has already been done by the old oil paint.
Try Annie Sloan chalk paint on your pine furniture. This is a very clever product that thrives on wax and grease. Minimal preparation required except on knots, which you need to seal with a couple of coats of aerosol Zinssser BIN clear shellac primer. Then apply 2 coats of chalk paint and seal with clear wax or varnish. This is how boy decorators use Annie Sloan Chalk paint.
Sometimes furniture is made up of different materials. If the interior of a pine cupboard has an easy wipe finish but you want to paint it, you need to know how!
Here is how to paint a laminate finish. If you would rather have a professional furniture painter transform a piece of furniture for you, contact one of these specialist furniture painters in your area. Trustworthy and switched on, they have their own slightly different approach to their work, but fundamentally, we all sing off the same hymn sheet.
Correct material choice and thorough workmanship is the way to go. Most offer decorative paint finishes.
If you have a suite of good quality furniture, it usually makes sense on every level to employ a pro, as you would be hard-pushed to replace one piece for the cost of the painting of the suite. If you have a one-off not-so-special piece of furniture, then experience says that it is probably a DIY project.
How much cleaning, how much sanding? The ideal surface is new, unpainted timber. However, unpainted second-hand pieces will accumulate dirt and layers of wax etc which can fatally affect the adhesion of most paint.
As an alternative cleaning agent to white spirit or meths, or Langlow Wood Reviver or Liberon Wax Remover, which are all very high in VOC and noxious fumes, try Krudkutter Original, which is an eco friendly biodegradable cleaner which decorators use to clean really dirty or waxy surfaces quicky.
Wipe on with a scourer, leave for a few minutes, and while still damp, scrub down. Wipe with a lint free cloth like a Mirka microfibre. Repeat if necessary. Once cleaned down, the surface is ready for sanding. The aim of sanding is to provide a key for the paint, so is minimum grade roughness you should use to prepare with.
Abranet does it all. Knot and prime �. That works best for sealing knots under chalk paint, but it is a very old hat approach for sealing surfaces prior to applying conventional oil or water-based paints.
There are alternatives. These are high adhesion water-based primers that prime AND seal knots and stains. If a stain comes through the first coat, leave it 4 hours for the paint to dry and then recoat. If you touch in the stain too quickly, the wet coat will draw the stain through again! Be aware that if surfaces are in direct sunlight, knots can leak through any sealer. Tikkurila Unica varnish is another option being recommended for sealing resinous, knotty surfaces, followed by Tikkurila Otex basecoat.
Zinsser Bullseye or other quick drying primers are user-friendly and have good stain-blocking abilities, just not as good as the 2 above options. However one option that has worked for me is to prepare and paint the whole surface first with a water-based primer. The dark shadow of knots will show through the white primer, and you seal those with a couple of sprays with aerosol Zinsser BIN. The lacquer coating should have had a stain blocker added to it, so knots should have been sealed in for good.
So lightly sand to provide a key. If you are not confident about the knots being held back, spot spray 2 coats of Zinsser BIN over visible knots.
Stopper, Filler �. Looking for an oil-based eggshell finish? Eggshell is self-undercoating so after priming, you have an option � either undercoat once or apply first of 3 topcoats.
Leave to dry overnight, sanding between coats with grade abrasive, cleaning with vacuum and tack rag, repeat. I am a big fan of tinting the undercoat as close to the top coat colour as possible. Buy the undercoat and topcoat in same brand. Mark at Broken Cross Decorators Merchants in Macclesfield or Holmans in Swindon, or other merchants heavily invested in tinting machines should be able to tint primers and undercoats to match whatever you need for topcoats.
The VOC regulations threw most of the UK paint industry into a tizz and they are still having real trouble formulating white eggshell and gloss. White oil paint always yellowed but gradually. There is lots of evidence that white oil paint is prematurely yellowing.
Drying times have also extended. We are happy to freely share our knowledge gleaned from many years in the kitchen and furniture painting business. And happy to answer any questions. In general, if you find the tips useful, if you get the chance, could you just mention our site to the people you get your paint and kit from, or tell your friends, and help spread the word to others struggling to paint right.
If you want to give a room in your home a new look, painting a pine furniture piece is a simple way to freshen up a tired piece of furniture and an easy way to perk up a room. Hi, do you have much call for painting your furniture? I envisage that the economic times will make people think increasingly hard about just throwing stuff out. A facelift with paint is a good option.
Either chalk paint straight over wax, or I would suggest cleaning the surface with Krudkutter Original Apply liberally, just before it dries scrub off with a kitchen scourer. No neutralising required, very eco citrus based product.
Liberon Wax and polish remover � pour into a metal pot, apply with fine steel wool, leave for a couple of minutes but dont let it dry off then wipe it clean with more steel wool and a cloth rag. Repeat as necessary. The wealth of archeological evidence from earlier periods offers no indication of the existence of a tradition of theatre. The ancient Vedas hymns from between and BC that are among the earliest examples of literature in the world contain no hint of it although a small number are composed in a form of dialogue and the rituals of the Vedic period do not appear to have developed into theatre.
This treatise on grammar from BC provides a feasible date for the beginnings of theatre in India. The Natya Shastra, written Bharata Muni during the 2nd century has laid the structure of music, dance and drama.
It is the oldest surviving text on stage craft. It is fundamental to all Indian aesthetics. Humour - White 3. Pathos - Grey 4. Anger - Red 5. Heroism - Orange. The text consists of 36 chapters with a cumulative total of poetic verses describing performance arts. The subjects covered by the treatise include dramatic composition, structure of a play and the construc-. The Natya Sastra of Bharatamuni. Natya Shastra - Wikipedia.
Emotions Stock Illustrations. The survey gave an insight towards the level of awareness and interest about performing art forms and centres. It helped spot the problem areas in the current scenario of performing art centres which need to be taken care of while designing the same. A modified shipping container in a parking lot in Red Hook, Brooklyn.
Constant hiking of rent, sharing space, subletting, and building environment. Could be replicated or moved easily 1. Exhibition space convertd from a Civil Warera warehouse 2. Has expansive exhibition space, rich curriculum of classes, and lovely sculpture garden.
A converted factory near Queens Plaza, it mounts often-irreverent thematic exhibitions that transform the gallery into an immersive environment. Flux Factory provides studio space to some 30 artists every year. Literature Review There is a fine line that distinguishes an Art Centre and a Cultural Centre- the latter has a general purpose of socializing and entertaining within a community or among different communities.
Art centers, on the other hand, are more specific and focused on promotion and preservation of an art form. This difference has developed over a long time period. Starting off as a space for recreational activity and gradually turning towards enhancing and preserving art forms, the purpose of such spaces has changed over the centuries. With the foundation laid back in 2nd century in the book Natya Shastra, the Indian classical performing arts has a distinct personality and identity.
The book has defined a set of nine emotions that are followed by all types of Indian classical performing arts. Despite the fact that there are several types of classical music, theatre and dance forms in India, they are all connected through the rules of the Natya Shastra. Now, only a certain section of the society takes keen interest in following shows happening in the city.
With new eating joints coming up every day and people wanting to try out new places instead of having a regular eating spot to go to, it was noticed that this would be a successful method of attraction.
Case Studies Motive: The learning and inferences drawn from the case studies would help in understanding the functioning of art centres through technical as well as experiential aspects. The case studies would supplement the research done prior to them to get the complete knowledge regarding this area.
Triveni Kala Sangam 3. Tara Theatre, London, UK 8. It was established by the Bharat Ram family. The concept was to design a building using pure geometrical forms such as cuboid and cylinder by use of materials such as concrete, brick work and stone to give it a raw look similar to a sculpture.
Green Rooms are placed in a separate block on the back side of the main building and is connected to the stage through a staircase. A style of functionalist architecture, prevalent in thes and s, It is characterized by the use of steel and exposed concrete in massive blocks.
Reception hall can also serve as an exhibition space. Cantilevered upper level that allows for close interaction between audience and stage. Flexibility in spaces for performance of different art forms as large number of events had to be organized in a small plot and harmony between the interior and exteriors. History It started in one room by Sundari K.
Pandit Nehru took notice of her efforts and appreciated her work and allotted the land for the institution. The idea was to form a complex which has non-commercial approach to art. Triveni Kala Sangam - Wikipedia. Contemporary Architecture in Delhi Synchronization between outdoors and indoors.
The internal spaces seem to blend in with the outdoor space and form a perfect harmony. In , Dr. Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, then Prime Minister of India personally took interest in the selection of the beautiful 4. Later, as the activities of the Centre expanded, an Annexe was added to the main complex in December The design concept is simplicity and relationships.
IIC has been designed with the idea of forming simple and minimalistic spaces rather than luxurious and lavish. There is a close relationship between the garden, water bodies, exteriors and interiors.
Usage of age old time principles of shading devices - Jaali screens and cross ventilation to keep interiors pleasant. The centre provides a relaxed romantic mood by keeping indoors and outdoors in sync with each other. Wall: Exposed concrete Floor: Rugged quartzite stone and blue kota stone.
Started in when HUDCO Housing and Urban Development Corporation Limited wanted an office building for is workers and decided to invite chosen non-profit organization in the similar field to share the workspace. Designed by architect Joseph Allen Stein, the idea was to design a center with shared services such as libraries for all the office members.
The concept was to design a cultural center with proper air flow through all areas indoors as well as outdoors by use of traditional building materials and techniques. Indian Habitat Centre. Indian Eclecic theme executed by use of local available materials to form modern geometric patterns. Fundamental approach of the center is that all its works should be multidisciplinary as well as interdisciplinary. The center was formed in order to preserve folk art forms and promote awareness and sensitivity to historical and cultural linkages between India and the world.
The concept behind designing IGNCA was to bring together the five elements - fire, water, earth, sky and air. The concept was to design a multi-venue, multi-purpose center with a contemporary look which reflects its aim to provide a platform for display of contemporary art forms. The NCPA was set up in as a national center to preserve and promote traditional and contemporary performing and visual arts.
It is the first multi-venue, multi-purpose cultural centre to be built in South Asia. Overlooking the sea at the prime Nariman Point, it is built on land reclaimed by the sea and spans over 32, square meters , square feet. Inaugurated recently in by Tara Arts, the oldest multicultural theatre company in UK. Fusing Global with the local to create cross-cultural theatre to create dialogue between the East and West. It focuses on providing the state-of-the-art facilities to create an environment for 1.
Library multiple functions. The concept was to design a multi-venue, multipurpose center with a contemporary look which reflects its aim to provide a platform for display of contemporary art forms.
Fusing Global with the local to create crosscultural theatre to create dialogue between the East and West. Jamshed Baba Theatre: Fixed folding seats upholstered with grey coloured fabric Godrej Theatre: Fixed plastic seating.
Exhibition spaces - Art gallaries, Sculpture court Performance spaces - Auditorium Rooms for rehearsals, classes and workshops Library Cafe. Fusing Global with the local to create crosscultural theatre to create dialogue between the Flexibility in spaces performance of different Eastforand West.
Contemporary elements in theatre halls Reception hall can also serve as an such as the grand chandelier at the centre exhibition space. Cantilevered upper level of the ceiling of Jamshed Baba Theatre that allows for close interaction between audience and stage. The designdifferent personality without completely changing the original form.
Marshall Family Performing Arts Centre has contre serves a common purpose of providing a space specificaling of the Centre is aimed at creating multi-functional spaces.
Art galleries and exhibition spaces temporary interiors which up tohalls for date, providly for display or performance of an art form. Performing arts Cen5. Visual Delhi isconcept verywas to design The a cultural center Office space and accommodations Conferences, Seminars, Gallery Auditorium to form modern geometric patterns.
Not only do they help in underhaving a different concept and motive according to Court the users and particular mood and atmosphere created in space according performer-audience materials and techniques. Fitness Centre Library multiple functions. The history, theme and concept of the centers deto the target audience.
Parking areawith the location. There 4. Therefore, all ing different cultures together, provides a platform to india and abroad and studying both helps understand the scope Conferene Hall Auditorium Board Roomsand interiors.
Exhibition spaces visual artsto � art galleries and possibilities that are present in fororder design a new one. Art Gallery earth, sky and air. Tara Theatre has managed to blend global with the local and is a ing was to make it look like a sculpture, a piece of art itself. Exhibition spaces for visual arts � art galleries Performance spaces � Auditorium, Theatre halls and Contemporary elements in theatre halls Amphitheatre such as the grand chandelier at the centre Staying facility � apartments of the ceiling of Jamshed Baba Theatre Parking facility.
Its amaizing! We just going to try do this like u did. I just wondering how u did this fantastic ceiling? Did u paint this or did u use wallpapers? Ok your ikea hack closet is just stunning!
Huge props and thank you for sharing. So inspiring and such fun to marvel! This looks so amazing, congratulations! But, it does seem like a TON of work for a DIYer, and that you would need a professional carpenter to help with all the details. Was it that much less expensive in the end? I am curious.
Did you tape off all the rails etc when you sprayed? It looks like you had the closet complete before that step. You primed with a roller but sprayed the finish�correct?! Thanks so much for sharing. On the right side with the shoes , we took out all the shelves, including the adjustment pieces and sprayed both the shelves and the plastic things that hold the shelves up separately.
Quick question, the link for the poplar board takes reader to Home Depot with purebond. Is this what you used for your project? If so how did you get the drawer front edging smooth, did you put a wood veneer tape on them edges:?
Just curious they look very smooth from the drawer open pic. Hi Ashley! We left the drawers in place but removed any shelves except the top ones since we fixed those in place to wallpaper, then we primed everything including the wallpaper and then painted everything.
In retrospect, we could have wallpapered the entire MDF back panel before we added any trim at all and it would have been easier than cutting to size but we might have used more wallpaper that way.
Hi Erin! Beautiful closet. We are just wrapping up a similar project and used your site heavily for inspiration and instruction. Kind of a silly question�how did you go about exchanging the clothing rods wood dowels?
Looks great! Love the color and what you did! Do you think it is possible to add an IKEA pegboard to it? I am so impressed by this! I was thinking about installing the wardrobe frames without the cardboard back and just letting my shiplap walls show through the back.
Is there any reason why you must install the back panel? We assumed the same thing until we went deep into the ikea hackers forums and discovered how important the back panel is, and thus settled on how to mask the backs rather than do away with them. Your closet turned out beautiful. Did you think about that when you were designing the closet? Did you use something different like a spray adhesive?
We used the Zinniser primer first on the surface to make it matte and then used Roman wallpaper glue to install the wallpaper. Did you prime first? Unfortunately no� the primer step is listed after the wallpaper. So that explains why nothing is sticking. So much paper wasted! Oh no! Have you tried using a heavier coat of wallpaper glue? Your project inspired me to believe a plain ole boring closet is an extension of the adjoining space and not just utilitarian.
You inspired me so much so that I have now assembled 8 PAX units in my walk in. The project seems to be getting bigger as the ideas and inspiration from your posts flood in. I am having the same troubles you had sourcing the poplar boards from my local HD or Lowes.
I do have a concern this thickness may be too heavy as a drawer front. How did you handle the transition between vertical trim and baseboards? Your closet turned out really beautifully, and I wanted to do something similar. I did have a bad experience with Zinsser BIN paint, though. I, too, did two coats, allowing a few days for offgassing and curing before the second coat, and keeping windows open and fans running during painting and afterwards.
I had much better luck painting my closet shelves with BIN, which I did outside in the hot sun. I did only one coat this time, leaving it outside for hours afterwards, and the smell was barely noticeable when I brought the shelves inside at the end of the day. The way we did it, we ended up gluing the wire down to the top of the highest shelf and then ran it up the corner vertically in the very back to exit the unit.
What is the width of the walkable area between the two cabinets first photo in section 14? Do you find it is tight? Working on an addition with closet and want to ensure I leave enough space between wall and cabinetry. Your closet is awesome, Erin! We are in the midst of doing ours much like you have and I have a question. Have you had any problems with the wallpaper you used to cover the back wall seams?
I have read comments on bubbling, lifting, being difficult to cover with paint, etc. Would greatly appreciate any input! This is just amazing!
Hope that helps, and good luck with your closet! We are in the midst of doin our closet now and just like yours we have a few units on two sides of a walkin closet. My question is concerning the lights when you purchased the puck lights from amazon how were you able to connect the lights from each side of the room without the wire being exposed. The pack i purchsased allows for you to connect 6 lights but how is that possible for the lights on the opposite side.
I hope im making sense! We ended up ordering an extra long cord to connect the two sides through the ceiling we have attic access. How did you move the electrical outlet? I looks like it is in line with the top drawer.
Hello Erin! I am just getting started on my install. My question is regarding the wallpaper. I have one more unit to put together, I am thinking about trying to get very thin plywood instead of using the back with the PAX system, cut to size of course. I will definitely prime it 1st, then paint it! Your thoughts?
Could you please tell me how you were able to recreate the fronts on the drawers? Did you just cover the existing wood fronts, or remove them and remake them? Hi, I believe this is covered in step 8 above, but we cut the wood drawer fronts to size and then attached them to the existing Ikea laminate drawer fronts using screws, screwed from the inside of the drawer. Let me know if you need further clarification.
This is absolutely beautiful! Hoping to create something similar in our master closet. When you painted, how did you keep the paint from filling the holes that you wanted to leave open on the adjustable shelves? I need an extension to one of my cords to reach the bridge connector. Did you have to find extensions for your lights? If so where? This is awesome! How long did the project take in man hours for the install, carpentry, and painting.
As you added spare shelves to match the height of the baseboard for the bottom of the wardrobes, I noticed you added a shelf divider shown in your point 5. Was putting a shelf divider on top of a shelf an issue? This looks incredible!! Do you think this would be possible to do with the thought of moving and taking the wardrobes down in the next couple of years?
Hi Erin, your post has inspired me to attempt redoing our walk in closet with the pax system, with customization as well. I was wondering how well the paint is holding up after all this time with use? Any chipping or lifting of the paint form the laminate? Thanks so much! This closet is beautiful! What advantage did buy the Pax units give you? At that point in time, we had never built cabinetry before, so it was pretty intimidating to do so and would have taken us A LOT more time to build out.
One of the advantages to the IKEA system is that we could use existing drawer bases, internal organizers, and other organization pieces to max out the organization of the closet. That being said, having grown our skills today, we would potentially tackle the full build-out from scratch today if we had the dedicated time , just because we love a new challenge ha!
Erin, this is truly outstanding work. The PAX system is great but it absolutely leaves little to be desired on the esthetic side.
What you have done is quite perfect. As a designer, I am quite critical so grand complements to you. What was the total cost on this project? This is like the best hack ever!! I do have a question though, how do you catch drips when painting with a gun before it dries?
Do you use a brush?? What an amazing job! Can I hire you to come do this at my house!?!!?! Hi Erin, Your closet is beautiful and been such a help because our soon to be closet is also 6 and a half feet wide by I love everything about it. Not putting anything on back wall makes sense to create a nice walkway.
I almost had something there but your layout really looks good and we eliminated it based on your photo. Here is my question. It would be very helpful to me if you could confirm width of pax wardrobe and depth? My width is the same as yours so I am using yours as a guide. Correcting now! Erin, I am sure you are flooded with messages! Thank you so much for your response.
I will move forward with mine since yours is so beautiful! The depth offered at Ikea is actually
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